[shark]

11.3-7 (11.3 today)

M. Afternoon. Did crimp mirrored benchmark crimp problem consecutively. AnCap 5goes 2 sets Failed on very last move of 10th go. PB. Tips waffer thin. Curry to celebrate Keith's 60th. Great turnout - sat next to Ben Moon

T.  Morning. Met Nick Conway and Tom Adams there. Luke Dawson turned up after. Had a couple of goes up main part of Obscene Toilet 7c but too tired. Luke led Tin Of 7b+ then I tried to lead on his draws but messed up clipping the draw on the crux so did it in two halves. Tried to redpoint but fell on crux. Came down and had 10 minutes then redpointed it but required a bit of a fight on the crux.

W.

T.

F. Morning. Tor. Chilly again. 2 days rest, better skin and stiffer pair of whites. Dogged up Obscene Toilet 7c to crux to warm up. 3 redpoint goes - each time getting through the crux. First time messed feet up and just missed high thin gaston. Second go got thin gaston (but only just) and then right hand into big undercut as I was falling out (ie very close) and third go ran out finger strength going for high thin gaston. Overall happy with Power Endurance progress. Would like to aim to do OG three times in a session as I think it is a great training route. 

S. Midday. Weather looked rubbish - toyed with going eatswood but figured rain would blow in. Went to offiie and had AnCap session on systems board. Decided to extend circuit by adding on 4 small moves at start. Did this straight off then burnt out second go so had a long rest. Did two more sets of 4 attempts. Completed whole circuit 4 times over whole session. Up to 25 moves now. Should time it. Be good to get someone to try the circuit out to see how hard it really is. Moves 5 to 8 used to be a project when I first got the Crusher crimps two years ago which I didn't have the finger strength for.   

S. Feel wiped

Good week. Second of three harder weeks. Did well to avoid Malham this week by the sound of it. Was at Outdoor Industry Conference Weds and Thurs. Sat with John Dunne at dinner. I have lately taken to referring to the Oak as "my route at Malham" but talking to John of course referred to it as "your route". Also got to chat with Jerry at ShAFF last night.

I'm hopeful this profuse name dropping will flush out Dense...or at least annoy Moo

[Muenchener]

STG: Left leg pistol squat. I dreamt that I did one - does that count?
 "Benchmark" moonboard 6B+
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Bike one hour.
   Kettlebell shoulder presses & arm bars.
T:   Boulderwelt with M jnr. Set out to do a mileage session on the new 6A to 6B+ circuit but had to bail early because of a sore pulley. Might need to curb the moonboard enthusiasm a bit.
W: Bike one hour.
T: Max hangs. Weakest session for a long time; my left hand seems to have completely abandoned the idea of holding strict half crimp form. Trying to do this early in the morning before work probably not a good idea in a week where - because of work - sleep has been a scarce commodity.
F:
S: Moonboard. Managed to repeat a couple of the softer 6B+'s I did last week, but "benchmark" 6B+ still feels a long way off.
S: Boulderwelt with M jnr. Endurance session: up-down-ups & circuits. Watching the lad's first stab at a 6b circuit. Juggy but reachy, and at 13 he hasn't hit his puberty growth spurt yet so he was really having to fight for it. Proud dad.

[fried]

Not much work this week

M - More nervy climbing at Bois Rond, irritated. I seem to remember it taking me about a year to get back to full confidence after my last sprained ankle, feel like chucking it in and taking up full time drinking.

T/W - Rest
Th - Indoors, ok session
Fr - Beauvais Hameau to look at the Orange 100 prob circuit. I should have left the mat at home as it was more time consuming dragging it around...did about 20 probs in total, fantastic fun day out....managed to find the 3 climbers deliverance slab...excellent fun. repeated a red, hardest thing I've done this year.

Sa/Su - Rest

No work tomorrow...more easy circuiting to come.

[nai]

2017 goals - 8a/+ redpoints, 7c onsight, E5 OS, E6 HP, 7C.

Mon - EWT - linked start to crimp match with knee in then, after lots of effort, from there to end.  Start felt ok but the end still feels desperate and very low percentage even in isolation.

Eve home yoga

t - woke up with left knee, that I did "something" to last March and had done 6 months of physio to get back to ~95%, stiff and restricted like it was last March. Bugger.

W - Tor, intention was Chimes but felt tired and a bit shite, couldn't get warmed up.  Got a rope on the classic 7b+, Tin of.  Did four broken laps and called it AeroCap. Total spanking.

Th - Bit of ego massage back on my own board where I can pretend 7 is 8.  AnCap - have tweaked the circuit and it's a bit hard, should last a few sessions hopefully.

Fri massage, shoulders in a state again.

Sat nowt - sore

Sun Intended to do something but still sore from Fri.  Hour of home yoga

[TobyD]

Mon turbo trainer 20 minute AM; run 30 minutes PM
Tue turbo trainer 20 minute AM; Foundry evening routes
Wed turbo trainer 20 minute AM; Foundry, 10 warm ups to 6c, 10-15 minutes on 45 degree board, easy moves, 7a, 3x(6c+ twice, 6b+)
Thu turbo trainer 20 minute AM; 10 warm ups to 6c, 4x(6c+ twice, 6b+)
Fri turbo trainer 20 minute AM; turbo trainer evening 30 minutes
Sat turbo trainer 20 minute AM; routes Foundry. Feeling very sub par, and sore skin.
Sun turbo trainer 20 minute AM cadence session; much better Foundry session. Repeat of the Thursday session except 3 laps of the 6c+ on set 2 when i lost count of how many I'd done. Yoga class in the evening.

[Nibile]

Mon -Th - Bit of ego massage back on my own board where I can pretend 7 is 8.

Ahahah that's brilliant! My thoughts about my board exactly!

[tomtom]

M: Drive to Hull and back, Work. Felt dead.

Tu: Roaches with "Dolly the unhustleable". Really good day out - but I was utter shite (and seemed to drag dolly down to my standards)... lowlights were utter failures on Intertia Reel (???????? I mean ????? how???? what do you???? eh???? - imagine two middle aged men occasionally holding holds then scratching heads for a few min - and repeat), C3PO and progress but ultimate failure on Nadins.. Great to be out on the grit again (its been over a month) and enjoyed doing a range of mid range problems in the mid 6's that are probably 5's if I read the guidebook correctly

We: I've completely forgotten what I did - but did 30 min yoga at some point..

Th: Drive to Bangor for meeting and back.

Fri: Drive to Pickering for work and back (really bizarre - despite travelling at peak times both ways - the roads were clear..). On the way back I had a failed attempt to go climbing in the NYMoors.. Finished work at about 3 (yey!) and it was spitting but drying as fast as it rained etc.. headed for Thorgill as per recommendations. It was really windy on the tops - v hard to walk with a mat - but the crag should have been in the lee so OK. Except I couldn't find the crag... Searched around for about an hour then gave up. Whilst walking back (1/2 way to car) saw where it was (I think) but just couldnt be arsed with battling against the wind again so went home....

Sa: Drive to Oxford with Family for MrsTT school re-union. I dutifully did child walking/looking after duties whilst MrsTT got maggotted with her old chums.

Su: Drove back from Oxford - back late after seeing other family members on way back.

Weekly summary: 21 hours driving. 3 hours climbing, 1/2 hour Yoga.

And its raining.....


This is the worst grit winter I can remember (for conditions and my performance)....

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - clean and press 8 x 5 36 kg; biceps curls 15 x 3; bentover row 25 x 2. Forearms pretty sore from Sunday.
Tue - rest.
Wed - Deadlift/bag Litvinov.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - dumbbell complex, farmer's walk 1' x 3 108 kg.
Sat - finally back on the board! Not bad despite: 19 degrees already; bad elbow; being tired from weeks of lifting. So glad I made it back to the board! Boxing bag.
Sun - clean and press 8 x 4; full snatch 8 x 2 36 kg. Boxing bag 1/1 x 6, brutal.

This week I found myself reflecting on my training. I was enjoying the weights too much, and this enthusiasm, teamed with a dodgy elbow, kept me away from the board for weeks and weeks on end. So I was at a crossroads, weights on one side, board on the other side. And I chose the board.
With a Mediterran Spring ahead, I'll have plenty of time to spend lifting, when the board will be boiling. So I summoned all my courage and stepped back under the board. Current project is an edulcorated version of the real deal, but is still bloody hard.
Didn't do bad at all, with good links.
Hopefully sacking the heavy lifts for a while will give some relief to my elbow and wrist, that are paying a heavy price from Trap Bar work.
I am very happy.

[dave]

Tu: Roaches with "Dolly the unhustleable". Really good day out - but I was utter shite (and seemed to drag dolly down to my standards)... lowlights were utter failures on Intertia Reel (???????? I mean ????? how???? what do you???? eh???? - imagine two middle aged men occasionally holding holds then scratching heads for a few min - and repeat), C3PO and progress but ultimate failure on Nadins.. Great to be out on the grit again (its been over a month) and enjoyed doing a range of mid range problems in the mid 6's that are probably 5's if I read the guidebook correctly

On the plus side you successfully located the crag.

[galpinos]

lowlights were utter failures on Intertia Reel (???????? I mean ????? how???? what do you???? eh???? - imagine two middle aged men occasionally holding holds then scratching heads for a few min - and repeat)

Don't beat yourself up about Inertia Reel, I think it's one of those problems that some days just feels the living end for no apparent reason. I dread getting on it as if I fluff it, it seems to trigger a downward spiral in my day. The problem is also exacerbated by Sam finding it piss whatever the conditions.....

[tomtom]

Tu: Roaches with "Dolly the unhustleable". Really good day out - but I was utter shite (and seemed to drag dolly down to my standards)... lowlights were utter failures on Intertia Reel (???????? I mean ????? how???? what do you???? eh???? - imagine two middle aged men occasionally holding holds then scratching heads for a few min - and repeat), C3PO and progress but ultimate failure on Nadins.. Great to be out on the grit again (its been over a month) and enjoyed doing a range of mid range problems in the mid 6's that are probably 5's if I read the guidebook correctly

On the plus side you successfully located the crag.

Yeah - I'd been there before...... and Dolly led the way

[T_B]

M - Lunch: Autobelays. Warm ups than 5 x black 6b+, 5 x yellow 6c, 2 x 7b+ short rest then 2 x 7b+. Didn't even notice finger!
T - BSMA avec Dave. Session 2. Did the move I hadn't done before, plus all other moves apart from the cut loose at the start. Felt hard today. Good, breezy connies.
W -
T - Lunch: Wave Bouldering - 7 x L2s, 2 x L3s (B&Y). Tired.
F - Lattice board. 'Broken Quarters' (AeroPow). 35 x 4 with 15 secs rest between each rep x 2 (failed on 3rd rep of 3rd set). 10 mins rest between sets. Feels like a very time-efficient workout with a nice rest period between sets.
S -
S - Anston as forecast better out east. Lovely breeze and sunny. Could've been Gorge du Tarn. Met Dave and Scouse. Warm ups then worked 3 sections and redpointed on first attempt Quarantine (given 8A but felt like hard F8a+). Chuffed as first time I've tried this trav and obvs I've been training for this kinda duration of problem/route.

Finger basically sorted.
Two outdoor sessions.
No running. X ray on my foot and waiting to be referred to Mr Foot and Ankle (Blundell).

[T_B]

I'm hopeful this profuse name dropping will flush out Dense...or at least annoy Moo

On a weekend when pretty much half of the strongest climbers in the world descended on Sheffield for the CWIF, that's a pretty lame set of name drops! 

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - 25 Crunches (+7.5kg)
20s Side planks (+6kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
3 x 10 Hanging knee tucks
Couple of sets of shoulder stability exercises
5 x 5sec L-hangs
3 x 10 Press-ups

T: Lunch -
Scapula Press-ups
Scapula Pull-ups
Bent over flys
Shoulder rotations
Lying IYT's

Eve - Pantymwyn - Warmed up on a 5+ and did a 6B eliminate. Mate did his first 5+, his first time outside.

First session on Panty's (7A+), Did the crux move a few times, felt like a doable problem, wanted to get on this for ages. Tweaked knee slightly when falling off with a stuck heel-toe.

Tried the one move stand start to Gasoline (7A+) a few times, no cigar.

W: Rest

T: Lunch -
Scapula Press-ups
Scapula Pull-ups
Bent over flys
Shoulder rotations
Lots of stretching

Eve - Pantymwyn - Warmed up on a 6A and did a 6B sitter into it. Mate did his first 6A.

Back on Panty's, took awhile to figure out the right holds to use for the first move out of the hole, wasted a lot of energy faffing about. Finally figured out something that worked well, all moves done. Had about 4 goes hitting the jug on the lip, stuck it once but faffed too much with left foot, just need to do one more move to the 2 finger undercut with the LH and I'll be in with a chance.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Late lamp session at Pantymwyn - Feels a bit Blair Witch down there when going solo.

Had poured down for a couple of hours before I got there but the crag was surprisingly dry, seepage was slowly wetting the starting hole on Panty's which was a bit annoying.

Surprised myself by falling off the last move on my 2nd go, then had a few rounds of 2 attempts and 10 mins rest failing on move 4 of 6 consistently. Nice to be able to consistently get the lip jug.

Eventually realised how to hold the lip jug correctly and despite being knackered fell off the last move again. So close... All the small beta changes should see me right next session. Keen for the sit start then.

[Coops_13]

M-S: Nada as ill/working away/gf visiting/further excuses

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by June
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: Nothing to report (touch wood) apart from struggling a bit to throw off remnants of previous weeks cold
Sleep: Really good this week.
69kg.

M: Nothing, fitted tail tidy to the triple though, great improvement. Prob just mirrors (~6hrs, 0dk)
T: TCA, Moonboard session, not many ticks but pleased to Get a 7B+ and the moves on a 7C (~7hrs, 1dk)
W: Nothing, curry after work with some mates(~7hrs, 1dk)
T: Bloc, was going to be woody stuff but Ben and Cailean had set a bunch of silly comp style things for the kids to practice for CWIF so was distracted by them... (~8hrs, 2dk)
F: Nothing, pick up daughter in eve for weekend (~7.5hrs, 1dk)
S: Nothing (~8hrs, 2dk)
S: Nothing (~7.5hrs, 1dk)

Still not much climbing time - need to sort this week. Rode triple to work W, T, F which was ace fun though.

[csl]

STG Boulder something > 7A
MTG not sure
LTG not sure

Mon

Fingerboard Max Hangs

BM2k bottom middle hold @ 93.18% of bodyweight

8 reps of 6 seconds per arm. Failing on last couple of reps on right hand, but had to up the assistance on left as its a bit weaker.

Tue

nothing

Wed

Board - targetting weaknesses

Progress on one project, fell off going for finish hold.
Some work on another project, quite far off it though

Thu

nothing

Fri

wondered along top of Cheddar Gorge then went to Bath

Sat

nothing

Sun

Bowles Rocks

Did Tobacco Road 6B+, a straight up 6B and Nicotine Alley 7A and some easier stuff.
Opened account on Sonic Blue, 7B. First time i've tried a boulder that hard, will head back soon.

[shark]

Tu: Roaches with "Dolly the unhustleable".

Is he OK?. He hasn't posted since our session at Rivelin 

[erm, sam]

Don't beat yourself up about Inertia Reel, I think it's one of those problems that some days just feels the living end for no apparent reason. I dread getting on it as if I fluff it, it seems to trigger a downward spiral in my day. The problem is also exacerbated by Sam finding it piss whatever the conditions.....

That'll be Tech Crack Direct you are thinking off Galpo..

[T_B]

lowlights were utter failures on Intertia Reel (???????? I mean ????? how???? what do you???? eh???? -

French start?

[tomtom]

lowlights were utter failures on Intertia Reel (???????? I mean ????? how???? what do you???? eh???? -

French start?

Tried that - with two mats as well

[galpinos]

That'll be Tech Crack Direct you are thinking off Galpo..

Ah, yes, you'd be right.....

[SA Chris]

M - Bouldering session. Didn't manage aim for the night, but came away feeling OK.
T - Nothing
W - Evening boulder. Load of new probs up since Monday, like a kid in  sweetshop. Thrashed myself.
T - Nothing.
F - Nothing
S - went for a swim while kids in lessons, half hour of lengths, pleasantly mindless except lots of people getting in the way in the shallow end. Messed about with kids after their lesson. Intended surfing in afternoon, bit after a few holdups got to the beach as the tide and wind were killing it, so didn't bother, went to wall instead. Had a pretty good session hoovering up previous week's projects.
S -DIY morning, out with kids on bikes in afternoon, usually running to keep up.

[Palomides]

M - 20 mins turbo
T - nothing
W - REAL CLIMBING.... sort of. Few laps of easy routes on autobelays at the wall
T - BM 5C routine (one set only) Feels about as hard as the pre-update 5A routine
F - nothing
S - Tourist day, wandering around and tasting wine
S - Short walk.

Not much really, still readapting to fulltime work!

[psborland]

M. Auto belays easy routes 3 sets of 10 laps 1 of 7 laps 6 mins rest between sets. hangboard medium edge 10 x 7-on-3 off  x 2 sets.
T. none
w. limit bouldering, shoulders feeling really tired and letting everything else down. did a bit of power work on long moves on the big rungs 1-4-1 x 3  , 3 sets . Didn't feel good.
Th resting shoulders feeling strange/fatigued ?? .
F. Went to give a friend a belay at the  wall for his first climb after surgery so tried a few routes. Shoulders  really weren't  working properly.
s. rest
s. rest. shoulders feeling really tired