Isn't Bin Ladens 6C?
Quote from: tomtom on February 06, 2017, 07:16:46 pmIsn't Bin Ladens 6C? Where do you get that from?
Quote from: shark on February 06, 2017, 07:27:58 pmQuote from: tomtom on February 06, 2017, 07:16:46 pmIsn't Bin Ladens 6C? Where do you get that from?Thats what Dolly said when we were on it...
Planned light week for me last week. Felt pretty weak on Thursday's session for some reason, 3 rest days felt like too much... Felt strong on yesterday's night session, back to the higer volume of training this week.M: RestT: RestW: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)30 Side Crunches (15 each side)5 x 5sec L-Hangs8 Leg raises to bar3 x 10 Dorsal Raises5 x 5sec L-Hangs8 Leg raises to bar50 Crunches (+5kg)T: Plas Power - 2 x 8 min on 2min off LI-AeroCapMax Hangs Open crimp - 20mm edge - 3 x 10s (3min rest)Half crimp - 25mm edge - 3 x 10s (3min rest)Board - Figured out a good last couple of moves for project, had 2 goes from the start and fell off on move 6 twice. Problem is 8 moves in total.AnCap - 7 x 12moves (2mins rest between reps) Powered out on rep 7.Didn't realise the time so couldn't complete 8th rep.F: RestS: RestS: Minera Bouldering night session - Esoteric local limestone boulder, never been before and really impressed. Flashed "Warhammer" (6B) and did Danny Cattell's "Siani Blewog" (6C+) in a few goes, great moves. Had a bunch of goes on "Ned's Arete" (6C+), did all the moves but the slopey pinches were in bad condition, moisture in the air and everything was slowly freezing over.Keen to go back to try the 7A+ and DC's 7B/+.
Hi Luke, where is the 7B/+ problem you mentioned please? AlecSent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
Its 7a (cough) still cant fucking do it.
Sleep: ok, been taking the melatolin this week, and lots of time in bed, but started waking in the night again though which is shit.
S. Weather looked iffy. Headed out with Seb. Turned out to be a lovely day. Started at Moorside Rocks (not been before) and did the tricky 6b left arete. Also did Charlotte Dumpling to where it gets spicy and jumped off. Moved on to start of Gardoms (again that end new to me) and did G-Thang and teh sitter at 6C/+ which was great. Moved on to Suavito 7B which was amazing but frustrating. I couldnt quite reach the left hand sidehold. Seb got close with his hand on top. Then moved on to quest for Bin Ladens Cave 7A. Fortunately found it. Mossy and wet on top which made it intersting. We both got it about 3rd or 4th go. Another great problem. Good to get new crag ticks in and always entertaining to go out with Seb. Overall a superb day out.
Quote from: Duma on February 05, 2017, 06:46:13 pmSleep: ok, been taking the melatolin this week, and lots of time in bed, but started waking in the night again though which is shit.I found melatonin helped for a while, but it's effectiveness wore off over time (maybe your body produces less if supplement it, like eye drops).I am usually falling asleep in a book by about 11 and either wake at about 3 or so, then toss and turn for a couple of hours before getting to sleep or wake at about 5 am for the day.Things I find help;1) Exercise during the day, even if a lunchtime walk. Some sunshine seems to help (if there is any).2) No exercise at all for the hour before bed. Some people recommend 2, but very hard to achieve. Exception is a hard wall session, which I usually finish by 10, always affects my sleep.3) No coffee after midday, no tea after 4, no drinks after tea. Otherwise I need to get up for a piss and then I'm screwed.4) Don't get in the habit of switching on phone or iPad when you wake up, I think your brain expects the stimulation at that time so you will get woken up by it.5) No screentime before bed, not even a Kindle. Read a novel preferably.Good luck, hope you get over it.
Quote from: shark on February 06, 2017, 06:42:29 pmS. Weather looked iffy. Headed out with Seb. Turned out to be a lovely day. Started at Moorside Rocks (not been before) and did the tricky 6b left arete. Also did Charlotte Dumpling to where it gets spicy and jumped off. Moved on to start of Gardoms (again that end new to me) and did G-Thang and teh sitter at 6C/+ which was great. Moved on to Suavito 7B which was amazing but frustrating. I couldnt quite reach the left hand sidehold. Seb got close with his hand on top. Then moved on to quest for Bin Ladens Cave 7A. Fortunately found it. Mossy and wet on top which made it intersting. We both got it about 3rd or 4th go. Another great problem. Good to get new crag ticks in and always entertaining to go out with Seb. Overall a superb day out. If you ho back to Suavito the beta for that move is to really squeeze the arete and kind of push off your right thumb muscle, simultaneously with really driving through your left leg, consciously keeping a lot of body tension. Makes the left hand ctimp suddenly seem a lot closer.
I go on an almscliff circuit in my head and normally drop off before I leave the warm ups
I heard bananas and Marmite (presumably not consumed in the same dish)
If all else fails, the only thing that never failed for me was Diazepam for the short while I was on it. Pretty moreish though.