Are adaption times long with 'Ancap' (where's that coming from)? This isn't a case of misinterpreting the old tables starting period this can be worked for?
That adaption time is the time before gains stop/slow down rather than a minimum requirement before it's worthwhile, which seems to have confused people in the past.Re AnCap, you could just do a half session?I wouldn't not do the hard stuff, including hangs, just do less of it, and of course you don't have to miss out the same thing every time.
How would you do half an AnCap session?
Weightlifters call it an "unloading" week I think.
Anyway, you can't train at your max in a session if you're knackered.
I guess my original question should of been along the lines of will reducing/dropping AnCap for a week by a bad idea.
the residual training effect of different qualities is as follows: Aerobic Endurance: 30 days Maximum Strength: 30 days Anaerobic Endurance: 15 days Power Endurance: 12 days Maximum Power or Speed: 5 days
Quote from: T_B on February 02, 2017, 11:45:13 amAnyway, you can't train at your max in a session if you're knackered. I've often wondered how training when tired effects gains. For example; If you do a deadhang workout one day then another deadhang workout the following day is this likely to be more or less beneficial than just doing one workout and resting enough to recover fully?
I've been training a lot over the last month and seen some gains in finger strength. It was suggested by a friend that I should have a light week to avoid injury and let myself adapt to the training I've been doing.I couldn't find a thread about this so I was wondering what others do? How much should I ease off the training and for how long until I get back into it? Just a week?For example I've been doing a lot of fingerboarding do I still do hangs or just stop for a week? Similary I've been AnCapping for a few weeks, do I keep this up due to adaption times being long?Also, what's the science behind having a light week after a heavy few weeks? Is this supercompensation?Cheers
Quote from: Luke Owens on February 02, 2017, 02:13:40 pmQuote from: T_B on February 02, 2017, 11:45:13 amAnyway, you can't train at your max in a session if you're knackered. I've often wondered how training when tired effects gains. For example; If you do a deadhang workout one day then another deadhang workout the following day is this likely to be more or less beneficial than just doing one workout and resting enough to recover fully?as to the question of back to back "dead hangs" which i'll call "max hangs" (could be you meant other kinds of fingerboard sessions, but few people use "dead hangs" as a term, because you don't hang like a dead anything, but fully engaged).if you are progressing (weight or time) from one session to the next: you are seeing gains.most people need at least 48 hours, often 72 hours to super compensate.if you are not progressing from one session to the next, you either don't have the right intensity, or you haven't given your body time enough to get stronger.it took me years to get the volume down and intensity up as well as the rest days, to actually get stronger. i always just did more, to climb more.Isn't that the whole point of 'non-linear' periodization i.e. you can train different 'things' and energy systems day after day, but if you try and train the same thing you'd have to take loads of rest days, days that are effectively wasted as you could be training something else?Here's a simple analogy for those training for ultra marathons (obvs they're training endurance). Maybe an on-sight sport climber's base training phase wouldn't look too dissimilar?M - Easy run / AeroCapT - Long mid-week with hills / Max Hangs + AeroCapW - Recovery run / Low intensity AeroCap (ARC)T - Speed / AnCapF - RestS - Hills / Max Hangs & strength workS - Long run / AeroCapSoz probably !