Just saw this: http://www.klattercentret.se/akalla/the-black-diamond-project/Is this a case of multiple discovery of a desire for permanent benchmark plastic by independent great minds?
Following on from some comments on the BMC thread, noteably...Quote from: SharkTalking to Steve Dunning at the Depot a lot of the newcomers seemed surprised that a. people climbed outside b. would want to and c. would travel the world to do so.I was genuinely surprised by this and whilst I know there are a lot of new climbers who don't climb outside, I kind of felt they knew that it was based on "real" climbing and would somehow aspire to do this eventually...
Talking to Steve Dunning at the Depot a lot of the newcomers seemed surprised that a. people climbed outside b. would want to and c. would travel the world to do so.
Quote from: SharkTalking to Steve Dunning at the Depot a lot of the newcomers seemed surprised that a. people climbed outside b. would want to and c. would travel the world to do so.I'm not sure if the 'newcomers' referred to in that were specifically people they'd spoken to at the Depot, but if it was then I can see how that'd be the case. There seem to be quite a few people who go there who seem to be crossfitters/gym refugees (either have that "skipped leg day" vibe, or are surprised they can't kip their way up things), so I can see that to them it'd just be a 'thing' you did at a place like that.....
if it's a choice between not really knowing what I'm doing on a crag somewhere vs. sipping my flat white like a prick between flailing at some plastic at the Depot it's pretty easy to just go for the latté
There seem to be quite a few people who go there who seem to be crossfitters/gym refugees (either have that "skipped leg day" vibe, or are surprised they can't kip their way up things), so I can see that to them it'd just be a 'thing' you did at a place like that. For them it probably is just a functional thing, so they wouldn't have any interest in where it might have come from or where it might take them - as an after work exercise/fitness option it's ideal.
With places like the Depot in Manchester and - say - the Climbing Lab in Leeds being nicely finished, well laid out places with a good atmosphere and good problems set for people who are new I can see it catching on more with people from that kind of background.
I'm increasingly aware that I'd much rather have a really good indoor session than an fairly average outdoor one. A few hours at Bowden or Hepburn on a glorious autumn day is always going to beat Climb Newcastle but pulling on Shaftoe scrittle over a muddy puddle does less and less for me.
I decided that I'd have more chance of doing said problems if I spent those days training indoors and only go out when it's guaranteed to be bon.
Quote from: 36chambers on February 07, 2017, 11:41:08 am I decided that I'd have more chance of doing said problems if I spent those days training indoors and only go out when it's guaranteed to be bon. The problem with that approach is that, 1, that guaranteed good connies day might never happen, and 2, when it does, you're putting yourself under a lot of pressure to perform.
Quote from: dave on February 07, 2017, 11:56:09 amQuote from: 36chambers on February 07, 2017, 11:41:08 am I decided that I'd have more chance of doing said problems if I spent those days training indoors and only go out when it's guaranteed to be bon. The problem with that approach is that, 1, that guaranteed good connies day might never happen, and 2, when it does, you're putting yourself under a lot of pressure to perform.The life of a weekend warrior.
There's a load of low safe stuff at Shipley too, especially directly beneath the car park. You just need to understand few concepts like safe pad placement, and how to read the guidebook and figure out where the problems actually are which, with a place like shipley can be a bit bewildering.
With regards to the Climbing Lab, I can't remember seeing any guidebooks (or general outdoor equipment) for sale. If this is the case it's easy to imagine how beginners don't make the connection between climbing indoors and climbing outdoors. For me, owning a guide book was easily the main catalyst for venturing outside. After spending many days trawling through all the wonderful looking venues and conjuring up sequences for the various 3 star climbs I couldn't wait to get out.