I wouldn't want to second guess how the results have been turned into observations, but would agree that it looks like you just "underscored" on your first time around. I wouldn't read much into it without repeating the test on yourself. If you get weird scores on 2-3 separate occasions then I'd be inclined to think it's "real", though I'm not entirely sure what it would mean. As an aside, from my limited experience of both of them, I'm more sold on the critical force test on Lattice's digirung (or Tindeq or similar) than the lattice board assessment. It still has a lot of unknowns (e.g. what really is W' - maybe we're back to just calling it "power endurance"?) but feels more useful to me.
On a more simplistic question; if I want to get really fit & conditioned for routes but don’t have a partner to belay, Will climbing on the lattice board serve this function better than doing the auto belays at Awesome Walls in Sheffield?
Anyone else find the downclimb quite awkward? I wonder if it's being tall? Mainly just being not that technically proficient
Quote from: Fultonius on December 23, 2021, 10:16:55 pmAnyone else find the downclimb quite awkward? I wonder if it's being tall? Mainly just being not that technically proficient Yes. And I’m 5’8. (Not tall)
Fultonitis I'm tempted to say you need to force more consistent pacing and look at the test results in that scenario. I can't unpick exactly how it's skewing the results but pacing differences of 2x must be doing something.Also, isn't the rest period supposed to be 1:1 with climbing time at a lap level, not at an attempt level (you say you had a 58s gap between all climbing attempts)? This may have changed since I last did it, admittedly, but I thought the rest time was supposed to match the climbing time from the previous lap, not the first lap, so should (your weird pacing aside!) get shorter as your move count decreases.
Yeah, I'll go again with strict pacing. I'm not sure if it's "changed" or if it's the way my assessor understood it, but when I did it with him he set the rest period as the length of the first rep of the block of 6, and it stayed consistent throughout. I'm generally a fairly fast climber so I need to actively slow down for the test. Either way, weird pacing aside (my lap 2 was 1.30 and third 1.10) I still did the same number of moves...
I'm not sure if it's "changed" or if it's the way my assessor understood it, but when I did it with him he set the rest period as the length of the first rep of the block of 6, and it stayed consistent throughout.
Quote from: Fultonius on December 30, 2021, 11:08:27 amYeah, I'll go again with strict pacing. I'm not sure if it's "changed" or if it's the way my assessor understood it, but when I did it with him he set the rest period as the length of the first rep of the block of 6, and it stayed consistent throughout. I'm generally a fairly fast climber so I need to actively slow down for the test. Either way, weird pacing aside (my lap 2 was 1.30 and third 1.10) I still did the same number of moves...Different time under load and different mix of loaded/unloaded though - your lap 1 was at 40% of max effort in seconds versus 75% in moves, so perhaps it's not surprising you were able to repeat it a few more times before decay set in.