[shark]

6. Get dog ready for Crufts agility 2019.

Awesome aim sir 

Nice. Looks alert and bright and good fun.

Shouldn't be on the chair though...



Border collie? 

Aye, a very highly driven lady!

Wishing all of you the very best in 2017. The UKB community continues to be the best!

And best wishes to you too.

Can we have a photo...?

Of course, meet 18 month old Meg. She's got a good summit ticklist to her name already. I clipped my GPS watch on to her harness on the field the other night. Should make for an amusing trace!

photos upload

[jwi]

Well, due to things, my climbing year 2016 really sucked. Performance wise my only goal was to do ≥1 8a onsight. I managed exactly one 7c+, and that one wasn't even 7c+ on any reasonable scale.

This year I'll add some smaller partial goals as well:

1. Being only mildly depressed during pollen season.
2. Increase finger strength at least 5% above previous maximum. This is pretty much equivalent to do a one-arm hang from 20mm edge (left hand) and with 3 kg assistance (right hand)
3. Improve shoulder flexibility/mobility/strength to that of an average human.
4. Being able to do 12 pull-ups before my left shoulder start to lead the pull/roll forward (can currently do about 4 before I loose form)
5. Onsight at least one 8a. I'm not fussed if it is a well-known soft-touch.
6. Onsight at least one solid 7c+ in the Provençal grading system.

I admit that there's no difference between goals 5 & 6. So two #5 or two #6 will do.

[SEDur]

It's going to be a tough 6 months for getting much real climbing done, so a simplified set:
-1.5 stone
-2kg lattice hang
1 * 7c+ route

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

[i_a_coops]

Do big awesome new routes.
Get a PhD
Get a job that I don't hate and that lets me spend as much time as possible climbing and doing music. Or, run away with the circus.
Don't start a post-doc in maths.
Decide whether current relationship is viable long term or not.
Do the move I currently can't do on Meltdown
Do the super secret project.
Try some of: Lizard King, One Giant Lip For Mankind, Elder Statesman, The Groove, Supernova, Tabou Zizi, Bristol's Got Talent, Point Blank, Once Upon A Time In The Southwest
Become strong enough that I'm not the weakest person who uses the Bloc board.
8c RP, 8a OS.
Headpunt E9. Onsight more E6s.
Do a coast-to-coast road trip of America on a converted school bus playing at radical dance events.

[SA Chris]

Do a coast-to-coast road trip of America on a converted school bus playing at radical dance events.

^
This sounds more fun than all of the above.

[Duma]

Become strong enough that I'm not the weakest person who uses the Bloc board.

Thought that was three nine?

[remus]

Do big awesome new routes.
Get a PhD
Get a job that I don't hate and that lets me spend as much time as possible climbing and doing music. Or, run away with the circus.
Don't start a post-doc in maths.
Decide whether current relationship is viable long term or not.
Do the move I currently can't do on Meltdown
Do the super secret project.
Try some of: Lizard King, One Giant Lip For Mankind, Elder Statesman, The Groove, Supernova, Tabou Zizi, Bristol's Got Talent, Point Blank, Once Upon A Time In The Southwest
Become strong enough that I'm not the weakest person who uses the Bloc board.
8c RP, 8a OS.
Headpunt E9. Onsight more E6s.
Do a coast-to-coast road trip of America on a converted school bus playing at radical dance events.

Want to add my ex-super secret project to the list? It's eliminate, entirely on undercuts and has zero opportunities for kneebars/heel hooks/toe hooks/rubber based aid. You'll hate it :D

[Three Nine]

Become strong enough that I'm not the weakest person who uses the Bloc board.

Thought that was three nine?

Are you fucking kidding me? I've done one 6B, and failed on all the others.

[Three Nine]

8c RP

If you do Agincourt, i'll be so impressed that  i'll swear never to use the word 'gay' in a pejorative sense again, and every time I accidentally say it i'll give £1 to Elton John's HIV charity.

[Monolith]

6. Get dog ready for Crufts agility 2019.

Awesome aim sir 

Nice. Looks alert and bright and good fun.

Shouldn't be on the chair though...



Border collie? 

Aye, a very highly driven lady!

Wishing all of you the very best in 2017. The UKB community continues to be the best!

And best wishes to you too.

Can we have a photo...?

Of course, meet 18 month old Meg. She's got a good summit ticklist to her name already. I clipped my GPS watch on to her harness on the field the other night. Should make for an amusing trace!

photos upload

The chair in question used to be a chair but was always destined to become a dog's bed. Nobody sits on it but I take your point. Whilst she's shit hot in the head, she's definitely got me trained in a few areas that I'm trying to unpick!

[duncan]

Climbing

Onsight E5 (Ships That Pass in the Night, Wall of Prey, Get Some In, Darkness at Noon, Tales..., Supersonic*).

Tempi Moderni and another big route in Italy/Switzerland. Chant du Cygne would be amazing but it's even harder to get in condition than Darkness at Noon and relies on a strong (i.e. better than me in every way) team so a bucket list item rather than year’s goal.

RP 7b (Empire of the Sun, Still Waters Run Deep).

At least one trip to Gogarth, Fairhead, Lundy or the equivalent with a good team.


Means to the ends

A good base (>5) of 7a onsights/quick RPs.

Try harder, fail more often, specifically fall off more than one trad. route.

Benchmark finger strengths. Train finger strength in isolation (hangs and no-hangs) >50 times over the year.  I should have a specific goal here but still learning about all this.


Not really climbing

Be a good dad despite of all of the above.

Discuss working part-time with the relevant parties.

Address a couple of long-term unhelpful behaviors.

Call out intolerance more often.

Avoid pet ownership, particularly dogs.


I’m on an E4/7a plateau. Progress is constrained, firstly, by barnacle factors like parenting and where I live; secondly, by tweaks stopping training completely (50% of 2016) or trying hard (most of the rest of the year); and, thirdly, by the psychological effects of this vulnerability. The first is unlikely to change immediately. I need to try something different for the second. Targeted finger strength training may help as this is probably my biggest physical weakness, I can try hard in a more controlled fashion, and training by climbing seems to have only got me so far. For the third, I need to recognise I'm cautious but try harder anyway.

Like the thread starter I’m acutely aware of the sands of time and perhaps the need to focus. It's been very reasonably suggested I'd climb E5 if I concentrated on UK trad. and forgot about big routes. The physical training is quite similar for both, but trad. is mostly about mileage and I'd certainly be more likely to succeed if I spent three weeks in Pembroke rather than Italy next summer. However, if my hip arthritis deteriorates at the current rate, big walk-ins and descents will be problematic in a year or two, so I’d like to do another couple of LH&F routes in 2017.

Good luck to folk in their aims.

[Doylo]

8c RP

If you do Agincourt, i'll be so impressed that  i'll swear never to use the word 'gay' in a pejorative sense again, and every time I accidentally say it i'll give £1 to Elton John's HIV charity.

What would i have to climb to make you donate to CAC? 

[Three Nine]

8c RP

If you do Agincourt, i'll be so impressed that  i'll swear never to use the word 'gay' in a pejorative sense again, and every time I accidentally say it i'll give £1 to Elton John's HIV charity.

What would i have to climb to make you donate to CAC? 

I'll donate £500 to CAC if in return you give me £1000?

[Doylo]

Deal.

[Luke Owens]

Just remembered I'd forgot to post on this...

- Do my 3 Little Orme projects

- Boulder 7B

- Stop being weak for the grades I climb

[csl]

Try an 8a more than once - tried El Latido de Miedo in Terradets 3 whole times! Very intimidated first time up, be good to have a rematch when im not feeling so ill.
Boulder something harder than 7A

[AJM]

Try an 8a more than once - tried El Latido de Miedo in Terradets 3 whole times! Very intimidated first time up, be good to have a rematch when im not feeling so ill.
Boulder something harder than 7A

What did you think of it?

[Wood FT]

8c RP

If you do Agincourt, i'll be so impressed that  i'll swear never to use the word 'gay' in a pejorative sense again, and every time I accidentally say it i'll give £1 to Elton John's HIV charity.

What would i have to climb to make you donate to CAC? 

I'll donate £500 to CAC if in return you give me £1000?

www.makemarkpay.justgiving.com

[csl]

Try an 8a more than once - tried El Latido de Miedo in Terradets 3 whole times! Very intimidated first time up, be good to have a rematch when im not feeling so ill.
Boulder something harder than 7A

What did you think of it?

Amazing, the whole crag was very impressive. Quite psyched to head back when I've got a bit more fitness to make the most of it all. The beta on your blog was very helpful!

[erm, sam]

- Stop being weak for the grades I climb

Surely it would be better to keep being weak for the grades you climb, but push that grade up.

[andy popp]

- Stop being weak for the grades I climb

Nowt wrong with that in my book.

[AJM]

- Stop being weak for the grades I climb

Nowt wrong with that in my book.

To be honest, if a goal for the year is 7B and from memory sport max is 7c that's way outside my definition of "weak". I was probably 2 boulder grades shy of that at that sport grade!

[AJM]

Try an 8a more than once - tried El Latido de Miedo in Terradets 3 whole times! Very intimidated first time up, be good to have a rematch when im not feeling so ill.
Boulder something harder than 7A

What did you think of it?

Amazing, the whole crag was very impressive. Quite psyched to head back when I've got a bit more fitness to make the most of it all. The beta on your blog was very helpful!

Glad it helped

It's a fantastic wall isn't it. I'd love to go back...

[Footwork]

2017 will be the most ambitious yet!

Climbing

- Sport 8a
- Boulder 8A
- Trip abroad with CSL to climb the Cassin on the Piz Badile and the Comici on Tre Cima
- Bag some class first ascents
- self massage and physio more

Non Climbing

- Buy a house
- Keep writing
- Be on time when meeting people at the crag 

YYFY

[36chambers]

Halfway update.

- one arm hang BM2K low middle hold for 10 seconds (currently ~7 sec RH, ~3 sec LH)
- one arm hang BM2K smallest holds for 5 seconds (currently not sure I can hang them)
- 1-4-7 on smallest campus rungs (have just about done 1-4-7 on the biggest ones)

- Lobster Claw on the Depot 50 board (or at least do the individual moves).

- Zoo York
- Ben's Groove sitter
- The Fonze

- over 11 seconds mid rung with RH fine (yet to test LH as tweaky finger)
- PB on smallest hold is ~ 4 seconds RH (tweaky LH)
- managed 1-4-6.5 yesterday and now I'm wondering whether I've ever actually done 1-4-7. Haven't done any other campusing this year so plenty of room for improvement.

- Lobster Claw. Still can't properly stick the first hard move but very close...

- Zoo York. Not tried since January
- Ben's groove. Not tried in over a year now.
- The Fonze. DONE.


Haven't done any sort of training since the beginning of the year, but I've definitely improved in general. Currently writing up a new plan. Psyche is high.