[andy_e]

I think there's this other type of rock which is often in condition at the time of year. Anyone know any details?

[abarro81]

The only detail you need to know is that it's shit training for Malham

[andy_e]

Maybe training general climbing skills as opposed to training skills to climb one climb could help too?

[abarro81]

No doubt; that's why everyone keeps telling Simon to go do lots of problems instead of sieging... But doing it on the lime and in Wales (i.e. on real holds) would be far better than on the grit IMO (with the exception of Almscliff which always seems a bit more useful since it has holds as well).

[andy_e]

No doubt, but given he's complaining about accessibility, perhaps a few days out circuiting at the plantation instead of seiging one climb in the burbage valley may help!

[shark]

No doubt; that's why everyone keeps telling Simon to go do lots of problems instead of sieging... But doing it on the lime and in Wales (i.e. on real holds) would be far better than on the grit IMO (with the exception of Almscliff which always seems a bit more useful since it has holds as well).

Being practical plastic and wood will be my main rock type this winter with a bit of nearby grit for fun.   

[TobyD]

The only detail you need to know is that it's shit training for Malham

Deeply unideal, but perhaps not quite shit? Grit has some application, apart from having the best moves anyway. I'm not trying to say it's what Simon should do but hard problems on undercuts with poor footholds on grit could have value, even if all you were interested in was malham.

Minus ten is generally considered to be shit, but I'd suggest quite good training for malham?

[shark]

Minus ten is generally considered to be shit, but I'd suggest quite good training for malham?

Ah - good call. Had dropped off my radar. Though would be to siege things which I'm not allowed to do 

[measles23]

I think there's this other type of rock which is often in condition at the time of year. Anyone know any details?

There is also the oft-forgotten third rock type (nearly) in the peak - don't forget chuggers churnet, large bits of which often have good winter connies; steep and basic and a bunch of pumpy traverses - would transfer better than grit..

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 64.33 miles 3 hrs 48 mins.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Wife's works do free bar.
Thu. Bike 64.25 miles 3 hrs 56 mins. Felt pretty rough.
Fri. Board managed to do 4 of the projects I'd working on.
Sat. Board did a couple more projects. Also worked and did my hardest warm up problem without the kick board and with screw on feet. Turbo 50 mins.
Sun. First time in twenty plus years didn't do either cycling, climbing or sking due to being at my daughters. Pushed my grandson round the block on his pedal tractor though.

[TobyD]

steep and basic and a bunch of pumpy traverses - would transfer better than grit..

Proviso: I have never bouldered in the Churnet. But Malham is generally neither steep nor basic, so why focus on this? Powerful yes, but I'd say it's the opposite of basic.

[tomtom]

Ahh... back from the flat wastelands of Norfolk. Hope you all had a good break..

M: Remergence with Shark. I enjoyed the session - overcast and once cleaned the holds were sticking OK on Blind Date. Managed to get the first move wired (for me) and also finished the problem from the high lip (stacked pads). So I now have the problem done in overlapping sections, but not finished. No problem, it'll go some time - wee bit more conditioning and the right roll of the dice.. Personally, I think the most important thing for my progress so far is the glaring orange bouldering pantalones from Decathlog... an excellent purchase Shark got frustrated ~ but he'll get there...

T:

We: Logport wall for a lunchtime session and met up with Jim. Great session. Really enjoyed the problems - did most of the V6's and nearly did two of the V7/8's towards the end of the session (must be some festive grades from Ian & Tom )

Th: Some deadhangs I think

Fr: Drive to Norfolk. Baby now finds driving annoying and has developed a new habit of crying whilst driving, then when you stop, he stops and then smiles at you.. 4.5 hours of driving time translated into a 6 hour journey.

Xmas Eve

Xmas Day

[Luke Owens]

Merry Christmas guys!

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks

Eve - Boardroom, got there late. Did routes to see how pulley strains felt. Taped up heavily and did 5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 5+, 5+, 5+. Open handed everything, no pain, even when jugs were pressing on A2's.

T:  Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks

W: Lunch - 3 x 10 Arnie Press (10kg)
2 x 10 Bent over flys (10kg)
2 x 20sec L-Hangs
2 x 10 Dorsal Raises
10 Pull-ups
10 Scapula press-ups

Experimented with assisted one armers. Trying to teach myself how to engage the shoulder and twist up properly. Managed one on both arms a few times when pushing down with the other hand on waist hight cross bar used for dips. Can also do them with my other hand holding the pulling arms wrist.

Guessing this train my shoulders if I work on doing more of this?

Eve: Plas Power - 4 x 5 min on 5 min off LI-Aerocap

Campusing on juggy incut 30mm rungs (I'm really really bad at campusing)

Alternating arms:
1-2-2-3-3-2-2-1-1 (x4)
1-2-3 (x4)
1-3-1 touches (x4)
1-2-3 touches (x4)

Campus problems on jugs (~5 problems)

Limit bouldering on slopers/3 finger drags (20 mins)

5 x 1 min on 1 min off (20 moves) HI-Aerocap

10 min LI-Aerocap

T: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar

F - S: Family Christmas stuff.

[Nibile]

Baby now finds driving annoying and has developed a new habit of crying whilst driving,

That's because you make him drive! He's just a baby FFS!

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal Elbow
MTG: Zippy's, more 7B/+
LTG: 8A

M
T
W
T
F
S: Garage session on my mate's board down in Southampton. A bit of climbing then some weighted pull-ups. Chucked all the weight I could find in his garage on me and could do three pull-ups of 35kg. Core session to end. Elbow not too bad and only mildly sore the next day.
S

Fat and heavy atm with all this eating and drinking. Off to the states for a week to see the gf. Back on it after that I think.

[Luke Owens]

STG: Heal Elbow

Chucked all the weight I could find in his garage on me and could do three pull-ups of 35kg. Core session to end.

If you're elbow is still dodgey it seems insane to do something that hammers your elbows first session back?

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: R shoulder improved, prob as been off work since thurs, will see how it goes this week now I'm back in the office.
Sleep: struggled a bit over the weekend, improved last night though.

M: nowt, head stress day, caught up some sleep though.(7.5~hrs)
T: TCA, back on Mothership, really good session, finished the last two problems, including the undercutty black. Jonny back from BIFF and psyched for silly footless nonsense, so some of that too. Feeling strong. (~6.5hrs)
W: TCA, shorter session, but got back on the White up the escalator that I've been finding hard - managed from standing fairly quick and scraped up from the start in a few more goes - really chuffed with this and the previous days session, feels like I'm making real progress. (~6.5hrs)
T: nowt, work then pack then pick up daughter and drive to Cornwall. (~6.5hrs)
F: nowt, wander in woods with kids. (~5.5hrs)
S: nowt, sawed and split a fair bit of firewood though, gotta be worth something?(~5.5hrs)
S: nowt, eat, drink, brief jump in sea. (~6.5hrs)

70kg - pretty good considering the date...

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal Elbow

Chucked all the weight I could find in his garage on me and could do three pull-ups of 35kg. Core session to end.

If you're elbow is still dodgey it seems insane to do something that hammers your elbows first session back?

I realise this seems quite silly, this was a test of the elbow after a number of weeks of rest. Also I was trying out new things. I did slowly work up on the weights rather than jump so dramatically up to all I could find. But your comments are probably just. Elbow feels ok now though, it's the three-day ab DOMS which hurt the most!

[tomtom]

Baby now finds driving annoying and has developed a new habit of crying whilst driving,

That's because you make him drive! He's just a baby FFS!

But how else do I get home from the pub?

[Nibile]

Baby now finds driving annoying and has developed a new habit of crying whilst driving,

That's because you make him drive! He's just a baby FFS!

But how else do I get home from the pub?

Crawling.

[tomtom]

Baby now finds driving annoying and has developed a new habit of crying whilst driving,

That's because you make him drive! He's just a baby FFS!

But how else do I get home from the pub?

Crawling.

Bravo he can't quite crawl yet - crimp before crawl I hope

[measles23]

steep and basic and a bunch of pumpy traverses - would transfer better than grit..

Proviso: I have never bouldered in the Churnet. But Malham is generally neither steep nor basic, so why focus on this? Powerful yes, but I'd say it's the opposite of basic.

Fair point Toby - I should have said my proviso is that I've never climbed at Malham!
Just making the point that the peak option is often simplified to grit vs lime, when there are other options..

[tomtom]

Lots of steep powerful problems on small holds at the Churnet if you're after that sort of thing?? Might be a bit of a way for Sharkio though..

[nai]

Might be a bit of a way for Sharkio though..

Closer than Malham (although he'd probably be better off on the permadry Peak lime options)

[filz]

M: nothing
T: rings. planks, push ups, dips, top position, rows
W: nothing
T: fb. weighted hangs. Not bad
F: rest
S: board climbing
S: rest