[fried]

Happy winter solstice everyone!

M/W - Continuing family visit, niece sick with tonsilitus,didn't do much.
Th - Rest
Fr - Indoors, A little bit down on my last session, but packing a kilo extra
Sa- Traditional 24th meal, mixed white wine, red wine, desert wine, champagne, beer....
Su- Bizarrely felt O.K, went to Cuvier Rempart to try Angle Allain, which I've never even seen, unfortunately everything was a bit damp, the left-hand version was dry, except the top, seemed fairly soft, but need a drier day (and a spot) to finish it off. Very quick session as the dampness was descending by 3pm.

First time climbing in glasses, which I shoul've been wearing for years, very strange jumping off in vari-focals.

[Muenchener]

Happy winter solstice everyone!

First time climbing in glasses, which I should've been wearing for years, very strange jumping off in vari-focals.

And a happy yuletide to you too.

Vari-focals are also good for making you really look properly at footholds instead of just glancing at them out of the corner of your eye. And this can't be a bad thing.

STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Bike 1½ hours
   Half an hour shoulder rehab
T:   Early morning max hangs. Very weak, had to drop 4kgs from last week's weight. Heigh ho. Can't expect to hit a pb in every training session, and I'm still getting used to this early morning training malarkey.
   Bike one hour
   20 mins shoulder rehab
W: Bike one hour
   Was too late from work to make it to the wall as planned, so started the winter ancap cycle with Beastmaker repeaters at home instead.
T: Half an hour shoulder rehab
F: Boulderwelt. Light bouldering to warm up, then Aerocap circuit intervals 2 x 4 x 3 minutes on, 3 off as recommended in Eric Hörst's latest book. Boring & painful.
S:
S: FB repeaters & half an hour shoulder rehab as warm up for cooking Christmas dinner.

[Palomides]

Happy Christmas! I'm always extra motivated after the solstice - days getting longer and hotter, makes me feel like I need to make the most of the perfect sunny winter days, and look forward to the long summer evenings.

Ordinary week at work for me so managed to have a couple of sessions before hitting the full festive season.. mostly.

M - Changed work PC password to long motivational phrase (safe from dictionary attacks, and provides good reinforcement because I have to type the damn thing in about 30 times a day on about 5 different systems)
T - After work Christmas buffet. Foie gras, canapés, cheese, gateaux and a glass of Champagne but stayed off the oysters. Left during the dancing to go to the club wall. Felt pretty good, still not quite trusting left knee but invented a couple of things that felt hard (only to see regular partner Seb do them easily..)
W - nothing
T - Lunchtime bouldering session, confirmed that I'm heading back to fitness
F - Lunch run. Need to keep this up as knees hurt if not running at least once a week, but also need to give priority to climbing time.
S - Christmas eve short walk. Zero fitness benefit but really nice to get out! Big Reveillon meal... including Champagne
S - Big Christmas lunch (yes, including Champagne), followed by even shorter waddle around the village...

Reasonable amount of climbing, not much cardio, zero yoga/stretching. Holiday next week so will probably reverse this.

[TobyD]

M yoga am, foundry 20 ish routes on autobelay
T  yoga am, foundry 20 ish routes on autobelay
W gym Pm
T turbo intervals 30 minutes AM, gym AM
F turbo intervals 30 minutes AM gym AM, 30km bike Pm
S turbo intervals 30 minutes AM, 20 minutes PM session.
S turbo intervals 20 minutes; 33km ride later on.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - shoulder rotations; dumbbell complex x3; snatch pulls 5x7. Finally back on the weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - various one arm hangs tests, not bad. Snatch pulls, cleans.
Thu - boxing bag; climbing class.
Fri - weights warm up, boxing bag.
Sat - rest.
Sun - cleans 5x5 46 kg; dead stop cleans 2x2 46 kg; dead stop muscle snatch 2x1 41 kg. Dumbbell complex. Boxing bag. Brilliant session.

First week of new cycle after climbing the project, took it easy board wise, was a bit mentally tired. The weights felt good though and the one arm hangs are still fine. Shame that my dodgy elbow doesn't allow me to do more hangs.

[nai]

M nowt
Tue
AM - hour board bouldering
        shoulder rehab weights workout
PM - HI AeroCap
Eve 30 minutes yoga

Wed
AM - mini works with kids.
PM LI AeroCap, light weights

Thu 20 minutes yoga first thing before driving to family in Scotland

Fri squeezed in 30 minutes theraband shoulder workout

SS Family stuff = nowt.

Neck feeling good but unfortunately back suffering from the inactivity of last few days.

[user deactivated]

How did the book work out?

[T_B]

M -
T - Works. M'board. 1.5hrs. 1 x 7A+, 1 x 7B… first 4 moves of 7C. Then rubbish session on circuits board. Don't try and do AeroPow after hard board bouldering!
W - 8Km run to work. Lunch. 30 mins moving around as back feeling crap.
T -
F - Ran to work. Lunch: Max hangs. 5 x half crimp +25Kg, 2mins30secs rest. Failed on 9 secs of 4th rep middle 2 with +10Kg. 10 mins moving around on Bleaustone. Back felt good.
S -
S - 8.6km Xmas run with Mrs T_B

[Murph]

Normal rules, not reporting secret training

STG - Grit 7A
MTG - 50 7s
LTG - Rubicon 8A

Daily secret training routine of pull ups, stretches, kettlebells etc. basically random bollox not worth reporting.

M-
T-First coaching session with monkey boy. Won't go into detail here but v worthwhile. 
W-Day1 on "1 french press of coffee a day." Down from about 6. Not sure the power club relevance but it's given me headaches and tiredness and put me in a foul mood. I hope it's worth it.
T-Day2. Same.
F-Day3. Same. AM fingerboard session (just after coffee). Worst session for a few months. Not sure whether it was the lack of caffeine or the amount of kid-related interruptions (like a 1 year old crawling underneath you as you're setting up for a weighted hang)....but my best two handed hangs were +28kgs for 10s off the smallest BM1 holds. Last month I was doing routinely +38kgs for 10s so hope this is temporary.
S-Day4. Same.
S-Day5. A little better but swapping out coffee for Christmas treats isn't going to get me up them 7s anytime soon.

Weight - 67. That's 5kgs above fighting weight. And <the horror> 10kgs above Megos's.

[nai]

How did the book work out?

I got as far as buying it, not got around to reading it yet.

Seems much of the problem was down to muscles around the shoulder being engaged and full of knots.  Neck was apparently anchored in place by steel scaffolding on either side. Couple of deep tissue massages has helped massively, booked in for another once the kids are back to school.

[user deactivated]

Ok Ian, good luck with it glad it's feeling better. Do give the book a go if it comes back 😊

[nai]

Ok Ian, good luck with it glad it's feeling better. Do give the book a go if it comes back 😊

I'll read it very soon, in n entirely convinced it's properly fixed. One thing that's been highlighted by the physio and masseuse is the need for ongoing maintenance and complementary exercises so I'm sure there'll be some relative stuff in there.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[Sasquatch]

a couple of missed weeks at least, but i'll only post the one.

Sun - Roped with Missus, good wall session
Mon-Boulder stuff volume up to v5 (35 problems), Easy,  Deadlift Heavy
Tues-Short boulder session at gym - 15 problems -Mod Hard, Bench Heavy
Wed-Short boulder session on new stuff, 10 problems - Mod Hard
Thurs-Moonboard session - 17 problems  - Hard session
Fri-Short Boulder session - 15 probs - Moderate, Squat and OH Press Heavy
Sat-Skate Ski - 7 miles
Sun-Moonboard in AM, 17 Probs - Hard session

The multiple days are intentional as I found myself struggling to flow, so decided I needed more time climbing.  This has helped immensely, and despite weight being quite high, (8-10lbs higher than Sept) Climbing better than previously. 

[shark]

11.1-4

M. AM Bit tired from drive back from Devon and preoccupied with work stuff. Fingerboard warm up. Met TT at Burb resplendent in his new Decathalog day-glow trousers. Cloudy. 5degrees. OK connies but not mint. Didnt do very well. Got fingers in left hand slot once. Worked top moves from slots off a ladder. Couldnt do them. Went home showered and drove to Manchester. Meeting. Drove back. Eve Yoga

T. PM Foundry. Auto belay AeroCap

W.

T. AM Noon. Lattice session with Haydn and led by Ash W-H. Keith had cried of citing injury and Paul was smitten by flu. Weighed in at 72kg which was 2kg heavier than last time. Nearly did the hang with +10kg on the right (4.5secs) so overall about 1kg improvement I reckon on 4 weeks ago I reckon factoring in weight gain. On lattice board did better too but not massively. Lactate graph unchanged. Felt happy that Id scored improvements on every test and rep but seems my lactate curve hasnt changed. Various discussions about this (lack of) performance on Facebook left me generally depressed. Seems my finger strength is around average for climbers at my level (whatever level Tom judged that to be - HVS maybe?) whereas my AnCap is 36% below average - so much more work required.   

F.

S. PM. Foundry. Very quiet. Bouldered with Keith and a nice, keen youth - James Procter. Level 2's and worked on the white and black spots. Can do it in two halves now.

S. 

Nicely timed easy week this week. Usual festive excesses. Back to the training and dieting next week. Waiting on the lattice assessment but likely focus required is on AnCap but will also resume biweekly fingerboarding (probably  continue repeaters) and bouldering of course.

Re comparison between this week's lattice test and last here is a copy of a graph kindly drawn by Ally Smith



Raw scores:
This week: 66 max. Then 50 (ie 75%of66), 42, 28, 23, 16, 11, 8
4 weeks ago: 60 max. Then 45, 41, 25, 17,13,11

[Murph]

Raw scores:
This week: 66 max. Then 50 (ie 75%of66), 42, 28, 23, 16, 11, 8
4 weeks ago: 60 max. Then 45, 41, 25, 17,13,11

Hi shark, do you mind saying what these scores mean? Kg hangs on what edge? google wasn't too helpful. Cheers!

[tomtom]

I think it's a 20mm edge - but not rounded off as much as a BM one. (That's third hand - not from experience)

[nai]

No those figures are the number of moves managed on the lattice board. First to failure, then 75℅ of that then to failure every time.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[Murph]

Thanks nai. Makes sense. So the y-axis is #moves, the y-axis is which "go" it is.

Cheers.

[T_B]

 

I think it's a 20mm edge - but not rounded off as much as a BM one. (That's third hand - not from experience)

Yep, 3rd hand and wrong!

The edge has way more radius than the BM one. It's a nicer edge, but harder to hang and accounts for approx 2Kg of difference between what folk were able to hang when tested on the original edge and this one. Which I have heard is now available commercially? Heard all this 2nd hand 

[shark]

Thanks nai. Makes sense. So the y-axis is #moves, the y-axis is which "go" it is.

Cheers.

The x-axis (ie the horizontal one!) is the one that says which go it is. The y-axis is strictly speaking the % of your maximum effort as determined by the first go where you climb around the the lattice board to failure. 

Aftre that first max go you then have a long rest (20 mins or so) and then do a set of goes where you go to failure each time with the rest interval determined by how how many moves or how long you took till you flat line at a low number of moves or to use Barrows' metaphor you are running on an empty tank.

As I understand it the third go (after the 75% go) indicates your aerobic capacity ie if you can match the 75% of max or better you have relatively good aerobic capacity for this level. If you sustain a high performance in the goes after that it indicates you have relatively good anaerobic capacity for this level.

[Murph]

Cheers shark. Sounds an interesting test. And apologies - just seen I wrote y-axis twice. Yeah, go number on the horizontal/x-axis and moves as %1st go on the vertical/y-axis.

Understood 

Is this something anyone can rock up and do at the foundry or does it have to be a formal assessment by the lattice boys?

[shark]

Is this something anyone can rock up and do at the foundry or does it have to be a formal assessment by the lattice boys?

The lattice is available to use and if you know what you are doing there is nothing to stop you doing it with your mates as we did before but it would be too hard to do it on your own first time. There are subtleties with pace, deadhanging form etc that an instructor can point out and you wont have the data to compare your performance against similar level climbers. 

Tom has trained Ashley W-H and I think Karl BaconNickSillem at the Foundry to do it. Not sue what the cost is. Give them a call and find out and potentially book a session. You'll get a report back with the results and what they reveal measured against your peer group.

[dave]

Which bit of the graph tells you you'd make massive gains towards the Oak by just doing load of general steep bouldering mileage at 7a/+/b instead of sieging individual problems? [emoji6]

[shark]

Which bit of the graph tells you you'd make massive gains towards the Oak by just doing load of general steep bouldering mileage at 7a/+/b instead of sieging individual problems? [emoji6]

Small problem -I can't even seige 7A+/B bloc on lime unless I go to Anston or Connies Dale

[abarro81]

What that tells you is that you need to go to the Orme