[Andy W]

Hi, as its says really...moon grips, anyone used them?

I've got some of the white moon holds and they are not great but ok. I setting up a new board and thought these moongrips seemed quite good value and could supplement what I allready have. Also has anyone any experience of the crusher holds?

cheers

[webbo]

I've got some of the Crusher crimps 15mm and 20mm. I have a 40 degree board and found the 15s to be a bit small for me, so they've ended up on the short vertical bit at the top of my board. The 20s are fine, the textures good.

[b3n99]

I think most of the moon holds are total rubbish, the two newer sets especially. The original set is better but still pretty brutal on the fingers (small and very positive in the most part). Recently put a selection of the LX holds on my local board and they are superb, as good as the beastmaker holds in my opinion. They don't have any in stock currently but the long pinches are amazing! Here's a link: http://www.lxgrips.com/holds/mixed-sets

[ducko]

http://stonesmithholds.com/product/malcs-board-holds/

apparently these are good, ive not tried them but may order some for my board

[dave]

By "moon grips" are we talking these type?

http://www.moonclimbing.com/gear/climbing-holds/power-grips-set-a.html

These are the old sets, been around now for years. I had some on my old woody two houses ago, and there's load of em in the schoolroom. They are in my opinion very good holds. Like a thousand times better than the current moonboard ones.

[jakk]

http://stonesmithholds.com/product/malcs-board-holds/

apparently these are good, ive not tried them but may order some for my board

I have a set of the stonesmiths and they're pretty nice, really nice texture for the hands. Depends a bit what angle you're after, I have them on a 50 but while some are incut or flat, a few are really slopey in every direction so only really good for feet on this angle.

I've never got on well with the Moon holds (been on school holds original, A & B), felt kinda tweaky. As always really, some are nice but definitely not all.

I did get a set of these feet though which are definitely worth it, https://www.holdz.co.uk/collections/competition-holds/products/competition-feet-screw-ons

We have a set of LX holds at one of my local walls, very nice but the finish is a little too slick for me, cheaper than BM though and just as good

[skelf]

i've got some of the crusher crimps / pinches on my 35. They are quite basic, but (symetrical)basic is what i'm after right now. I used to have the board set with all resin bolt ons but it got too easy, so i stripped it and reset as a symetrical systems board with all wooden holds. I can "go" the 15s @ 35 degrees but have to whack a thumb over.

Beastmaker are great/expensive but they dont make pairs, so got them up the middle. Also made some up myself, fairly easy to do. For DIY systems holds get a strip of wood and sand most of the profile as a single piece and then cut / tidy & drill last that way left & right will be the same. doesn't really matter is there are differences between the pairs. Also got some hideous ply moon campus rungs cheap on bannan fingers - 2 chopped into 3 bits gives 4 pockets and 2 edges cheaper than you could buy 6 holds for.

http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/moon-campus-rung-19mm-single-p-4080.html

[dave]

get a strip of wood and sand most of the profile as a single piece and then cut / tidy & drill last that way left & right will be the same.

Tour local skips for discarded banister rail. Tried and tested.

[T_B]

By "moon grips" are we talking these type?

http://www.moonclimbing.com/gear/climbing-holds/power-grips-set-a.html

These are the old sets, been around now for years. I had some on my old woody two houses ago, and there's load of em in the schoolroom. They are in my opinion very good holds. Like a thousand times better than the current moonboard ones.

What Dave said. Both the Powergrips sets are very nice.

[chris j]

Not a fan of the texture on the stonesmith holds I have, it rips my skin quite quickly. I have an ever increasing number of crusher holds of all sizes on my 35. I found the texture on core holds quite friendly, but I'm moving more and more to wood holds, hence more crusher. Core's tiny screw on foot holds seem pretty good value - I like the geometric ones that can be used as either a small edge or hideous sloper.

[Oldmanmatt]

get a strip of wood and sand most of the profile as a single piece and then cut / tidy & drill last that way left & right will be the same.

Tour local skips for discarded banister rail. Tried and tested.

"Mop stick" aka banister rail is dirt cheap from most timber stores, comes in 4mtr lengths and various diameters. Cutting at 45* from the round to the flat helps to stop thumb wrapping (or at least reduce it's effectiveness).


+1 on the Crushers though. Slowly replacing the resins on both our boards with these and Core Geometrics (nice fine texture, symmetrical and still positive).

I shaped some from a stack of old furniture Mahogany I acquired, but the (is it?) Beech of the Crusher holds is much nicer.



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense. 

[dave]

Shirely mop-stick type bannister is a bit weird to hold, crams your nails into the board. There's one hold of that type at the school and it's weird to hold. Reckon for banister rail you want to co with the crowned type with a groove along each side.

[36chambers]

get a strip of wood and sand most of the profile as a single piece and then cut / tidy & drill last that way left & right will be the same.

Tour local skips for discarded banister rail. Tried and tested.

I always thought the best thing about having a woodie was crafting your own holds. That's definitely the way I'll go when I finally get one.

Much prefer wooden holds over resin ones.

[Oldmanmatt]

Shirely mop-stick type bannister is a bit weird to hold, crams your nails into the board. There's one hold of that type at the school and it's weird to hold. Reckon for banister rail you want to co with the crowned type with a groove along each side.

I use them to make pinches/tufas by putting them vertically/just off vertical, hence the 45* cut to stop people cheating.



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.

[kelvin]

I bought some of the Crusher pinches a couple of months back for Paul's home board. All the crusher ones see fine on the skin and seem positive. He has a load of LXgrips too, these are pretty varied. I reckon all the resin stuff will be removed soon because even I'm not using them. He has some bolt on mahogany holds too, don't know what make the are but it's be nice to have a few more of them.

[skelf]

[/quote]

Tour local skips for discarded banister rail. Tried and tested.
[/quote]

Got the offcut from my house bannister on there, I can climb the stairs like a champ after a decent board sesh. Although it might end up going in the kindling bucket for bring too jug like.

You can usually get a few free offcuts from a local (indy) timber merchant.

[webbo]

I've used some of those posts you use for edging your lawn, they are round and about an inch and a quarter in diameter. I have filed the back so they are flat against the board and on one filed it to make it more in cut to match another hold.
They were going spare so cost nothing.

[Doylo]

I trained on Lx woodies at Kendal Wall last winter and I'll be getting some for my board when it's up.

[Andy W]

thanks for the input guys. I did mean 'power grips' and not 'moongrips'. I've got a set of the new whites and think generally not that good, some are completely awful. I've also trained on the original set and apart from the early novelty factor of the 'moonboard' set up are tweaky and nasty.

I'm a fan of basic holds for training, so the crusher holds look ideal and at 2 quid a hold are good value, the 'stonesmith' training holds are ok, but out of stock. I'm happy to make holds as well. But this is my 6 or 7th woodie and to be honest I can't be arsed to spend too long getting it set up.

There really is a market for some basic training holds!! and voila....    http://www.lxgrips.com/holds/mixed-sets

[Flockofseabulls]

I would have to agree that lX gripz seem to offer value for money BUT as a connoisseur of the climbing board after trying various setups and holds over the last 20 years I have to say BEASTMAKER take the top spot for me. 

The holds look and feel the most aesthetically pleasing. They seem to offer the greatest range and variety of shape types. And the finish is good. I find most other holds on the market tend to look like some sort of 16 year olds GCSE woodwork project.

Just another punter with an opinion, I would like to find criticism for beastmaker as the price is on the higher end but the stuff I've added to my board of there's are by far my favourite holds.