SO... the report (Thanks for reminding me JB!)
Wow, what a place! I had been before as a kid many years ago but don't remember much beyond my brother being sick on the boat over and there being a lighthouse.
Our trip was cut a day short as the sea was too rough to sail on the saturday, this was mainly a shame as I wanted to get drunk in the pub.
Unfortunately we had very mixed weather and even when dry a lot of routes were really greasy, in addition to this, big seas often prevented us from going to certain crags. Despite this I had a great time, I didn't do nearly enough of the routes I wanted to, but that just means I'll have to go back again!!
Highlights for me would have to be; The Cullinan - Brilliant climbing in an amazing position (plus its always good to tick the cover route!). As said by many this is way more featured than it looks from the approach scramble. I had seen Rob G on it a bit the day before I did it plus another pair did it before us so it was well chalked. The gear situ isn't too bad either. Such great climbing though - I rarely trad climb in grit so it was cool to climb a trad route that was more akin to a gritstone slab.
Wolfman Jack - despite being super greasy. I found it quite hard and much to my regret used the unclipped peg at the top as a handhold very quickly.
Doing it in one pitch does make sense but equally, splitting it is fair too.
Matt Black was a harsh introduction to the island - was surprised how bold the start was but above it is well protected and sustained.
Immaculate Misconception - we headed out before the crag got into the sun and it was consequently very greasy! Thought the crux was hard.
Indy 500 was great also as were Destiny and Supercharger which my mate led.
Climbing on the Devils Slide was super fun too!
Lowlights would have to include; Milky Way - I abbed in to the ledge mildly concerned with how wet the start was (it was VERY wet!) But figured as James wanted to lead it and it was supposed to be graded for wetness he could decide what to do. James came down to the beginning of the wetness and decided it was too wet for him. Luckily I had brought a Jumar and GriGri down so we could escape should this happen. I sent the gear up to him and then tried to teach him how to Jumar from 15m away. It worked after a while (highlight being him putting the Jumar on the wrong way up!
)
He jumared until it was dry enough to climb, built a belay and then set off leading after dropping the jumar kit back down to me. Eventually he topped out and with the tide beginning to ride fairly rapidly I quickly jumared up and seconded him out. Wasn't that impressed with the top - felt awkward E2 5b on slightly poor rock. I can't imagine the bottom being that good even when drier?
Annoyingly this was one of the better days and as we were cooking we didn't have enough time for another route + get cooking for 14 people (I think I had been down in the zawn for about 3.5 hours by the time I topped out)
Other lowlights being abbing in to the diamond to find it very streaky due to some overnight rain. Another chunk of rain hit soon after escaping out which made waiting for the diamond to come into the sun frustrating. (it was so windy that day that I think climbing on the diamond would have been unpleasant anyway.)
A morning (albeit a wet one) was lost to a big loose flake on Bender at bomber buttress. James led up despite high grease factor and midroute rain to a big flake in the crack that when pulled on (with gear underneath) moved an alarming amount. Que confusing, fearful shouts of "take!" and "Slack!". I lowered him to the ground on lower gear and abbed to retrieve his kit. I had to do a second ab to retrieve the gear in the loose flake. Annoyingly I couldn't get the thing out of the crack. It shifted down when I removed the cam but despite some efforts yarding on it I couldn't get it out. Anybody else done the route remember a big loose flake in the leftwards rising crack?
So, lots to go back for - didn't manage to get to the Parthenos as James had done the routes there and wanted to visit other crags. (Ex-Cathedra was climbed twice though DT! Although apparently a rather useful jug broke off when the last person to second it stood on it.)
The whole of the Diamond.
Olympica - was really psyched for this but the only day it would have been an option was our leaving day and two other parties left to do it before us.
Antiworlds was wet apart from the top pitch.
Next time I'll head back with someone who hasn't been before as it was a little limiting.
Still as I said earlier had a great time and did some brilliant routes! You can't help the weather but fortunately we had a good crew in the bunkhouse so it was still good craic!
I personally didn't find it as soft touch as I thought I might though as JB warned it could be down to bad connies.
Would defo recommend a visit to anyone who likes sea cliff trad climbing.
