I'd also suggest Secret Garden (shady - and nice spot for the kids),
Burbage North (Boulders near the top)
Owler Tor (Looks a nice spot, is the walk in alright? Is this walking distance from Mother Cap/Secret Garden?)
Stanage Plantation (would like to do some of the classics myself, is there much easy (3-5+) stuff up there?)
Hi Luke - I'd go where the shade midges is are...
Looks a bit cooler towards the weekend.Any recommendations on some Lime bouldering near by that is suitable to take kids too, Rubicon? Can you take a pushchair down there? Nice place to chill out as well as climb?