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Curbar - Sidetrack (Read 8717 times)

Murph

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Curbar - Sidetrack
April 13, 2016, 01:00:48 pm
Is the trackside crack "in" or does sidetrack avoid completely?

Cheers

dave

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#1 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 13, 2016, 01:08:04 pm
Avoid.

Murph

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#2 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 13, 2016, 01:12:38 pm
As feared. Thanks.

Jim

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#3 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 13, 2016, 10:00:00 pm
I'd be impressed if someone can climb the right side of the arete using the crack

Murph

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#4 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 11:54:35 am
Jim - agreed. But a difference of opinion between friends I thought I should seek the wisdom of UKB. Settled now.

That said, Trackside into Sidetrack (Sideside?) is a worthwhile problem on its own. Surprised it's not on the list.

tomtom

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#5 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 12:22:20 pm
Jim - agreed. But a difference of opinion between friends I thought I should seek the wisdom of UKB. Settled now.

That said, Trackside into Sidetrack (Sideside?) is a worthwhile problem on its own. Surprised it's not on the list.

Does that really add much (apart from using the crack) to the start of Sidetrack.?

dave k

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#6 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 12:47:08 pm
What about Crackside?- Trackside with no arête!   I will get my coat!!

Murph

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#7 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 02:20:34 pm

Does that really add much (apart from using the crack) to the start of Sidetrack.?

Maybe it's a reach or weakness thing but it makes the problem easier..... a bit like crack and pocket makes sloper deadpoint low start easier, to pick a problem on the same boulder.


Simon W

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#8 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 04:48:58 pm
Crack definitely in Murph  ;) otherwise I've got to go back and do it properly with you!

r-man

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#9 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 05:38:25 pm
How are you using the crack? Sounds very strange. Are you climbing it on the right side of the arete?  :shrug:

Like this?


Simon W

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#10 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 05:50:23 pm
I was just out pottering with Murph and climbed Trackside into Sidetrack, so most definitely not to the right of the arete. Think I've done it the same way as in that video before but will have to go back and make sure now!

r-man

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#11 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 06:02:25 pm
That's what Sidetrack is - the right side of the arete.

Trackside is the left side of the arete, using the crack and arete.

Simon W

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#12 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 06:05:56 pm
Climbing trackside into sidetrack ,so essentially neither of them, was also quite good, recommend it!

r-man

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#13 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 06:07:17 pm
If you didn't climb the right side of the arete, then you climbed Trackside.

Sorry if I'm misunderstanding, but it seems like Trackside into Sidetrack would just be one move to reach from the crack to the start holds in the vid, then continue. Kneebar means it would be an easy move. Or you use the footblock and shuffle around with feet on a ledge. Both seem a little strange...
« Last Edit: April 14, 2016, 06:20:10 pm by r-man »

tomtom

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#14 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 06:19:16 pm
What R man said...

Simon W

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#15 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 06:35:16 pm
Started as for Trackside, once I had the good sloper with my right hand I moved my left hand from the crack to the lower worse sloper and was in the same position as the guy in the vid once he's done two hand movements, from there exactly the same as him. No idea what you'd call that but I enjoyed it.

Simon W

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#16 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 06:36:48 pm
In fact, I'm having it, Siwidtrack 8A.

Murph

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#17 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 07:15:19 pm
This in from a friend I checked the line with - "Yes it is in. I thi k the ctux is marching on the rounded arete. RH lower down. LH on Trackside RH big pinch"

So sorry Si - you're not the only person to have FA dibs on this cracking addition to the Trackside circuit.

Simon W

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#18 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 07:20:16 pm
Well if your friend hasn't got video evidence then he's lost out cos I'm heading out now with a tripod  ;D

Murph

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#19 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 07:55:21 pm
He's from that generation of climbers that doesn't get the "phone in shoe" thing. I know, weird eh?

I'll get it filmed if you don't. In 4K that'd look pretty sweet. That boulder is crying out for an "all the ways" film. You know, everything!

lagerstarfish

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#20 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 14, 2016, 10:30:43 pm
brilliant thread

everything I want from an evening when I can't go bouldering myself

 :clap2:

Murph

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#21 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 15, 2016, 04:56:58 pm
Slackside/Siwidtrack 6C+/8A.
Not sure of the name and grade but it's as worthwhile a problem as any I reckon.

Johnny Brown

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#22 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 15, 2016, 05:08:58 pm
Rather hasty cut at the end there, is this supposed to be proof? If you film it again, maybe untuck your t-shirt too.

Simon W

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#23 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 15, 2016, 05:12:38 pm
Looks about 8A that

dave

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#24 Re: Curbar - Sidetrack
April 15, 2016, 05:19:15 pm
Traversing off trackside before the hard bit.

 

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