What I'm interested in is how do different theoretical models in climbing training compare to each other - i.e. Patxi's training method, different lead and boulder teams in Europe (Germans and French especially), Anderson brothers, etc..
I have a big problem understanding training Aero Power. Really being able to pull off something as nails as an AeroPower circuit you must be peaking . When Binney was talking it sounded like a term that was plugging a gap in his model.
I don't see anything in an/aero/cap/pow that's any more useful than a training model of endurance (low intensity to high), power-endurance (short duration to long), power and strength. The later is easier to understand ime.
Maybe they do their other super-structured training with secret methods at other times or in other places. Or maybe they're just doing pretty much the same as everybody else, just harder / more consistently.
My plan is 30(ish) move circuits with rest of 1x to 2x climbing time, either 1 block of 7 or 8 reps or two split blocks. I was just wanted a steer on what is the right level of difficulty for the circuits. i.e. onsight level, onsight level -1 letter grade, minus 2 letter grades?
I'm starting off at around onsight level, dropping the grade as i get tired so I can still hold on for 25 or so moves.
Seriously?
(a 15 route pyramid is good - start at 6a peak at 7a+ back down to 6a. One at each grade. Don't time rests just try to complete every one onsight)
Open to being convinced though.
Quote from: petejh on April 02, 2016, 12:09:25 pmOpen to being convinced though.I have to say that initially I was quite sceptical of it all but perhaps increasingly less so... What I do see (in people undertaking 'capacity' training) is a LARGE increase in training volume, more of an objective look at their end goal (what type of route they're interested in and therefore where they should emphasis their training) and also looking at which 'system' is weakest (effectively making an effort to identify their own weaknesses). Although all of that should seem blindingly obvious, I doubt many people actively do that kind of identification without a push. It's also a lot easier to stick to something if it's written down and has some thought behind it (for me certainly).
Circuit of 'x' number of moves - in a similar sequence of difficulty as your goal route if the goal route has distinctly easy and hard sections; or sustained difficulty if not. Time it so it approximately correlates the time it takes to climb the moves on the goal route(s). I'd make it so you can do it 4 times, to begin with, failure somewhere on the 4th rep. Double the rest time to climb time. I'd reduce the rest time each session as you gain fitness until you can do it with the same rest time as climb time. Once you reach that point (if you ever do before it comes time to just climb rather than train) you've got three options - make the circuit harder; do more laps of the same circuit; decrease the rest time. TBH I doubt you'll encounter that choice before you send.Alternatively use the campus board with one foot on for the roughly same effect but more targeted to forearm fitness without the distraction of moving position. (for foot-on campus I switch foot at the bottom of each down ladder). For foot-on campus I'd focus on replicating the time to climb the goal route rather than replicating the number of moves as it's hard to hold back the pace on a campus board when there's no movement to think about except moving a hand. Guess the time if you have to, doesn't need to be exact. Likely to be somewhere between 1.30-2.30. Same protocol for resting time as before -double to begin with, as soon as successful on 4th rep decrease rest time until you get toward 1x. Then go smaller rungs; or do more reps (depending what sort of fitness is more value for the type of climbing you do - power with some endurance or endurance with some power); or decrease rest time to below 1x.Do either or each of those twice to three times per week for 2-4 weeks and you should notice a massive difference in the number of hard moves you can bosh out before failing.