[T_B]

Flying to Barcelona early January for a long weekend and hoping to get lucky with the weather.

Any recommendations based on the following...

Looking for short (ish) quality routes 7c+ - 8a+ that are bouldery, preferably in easily accessible sectors where there are warm ups nearby and a decent concentration of routes ideally. Don't want to waste time working out an area, as I don't really know Siurana and have never been to Margalef.

Not that keen on pockets, which slightly worries me about Margalef, though it looks nice and more sheltered than Siurana might be.

I'd probably get pumped on pure tufa.

Already have my eye on Sector L'Olla at Siurana (would love to get on Migranya but suspect that would be asking a little too much). What are the accessible / obvious sectors at Margalef say with a classic 8a or two?

Will probably stay in Cornudella.

Hoping it doesn't snow. And don't want to drive as far as Chulilla.

Thanks!

[Davo]

La Cara que no miente at Siurana was good. Short, bouldery, no pockets, mainly revolves around 1 beefy move off a pinch.

[dave]

1 beefy move off a pinch.

T_B's eyes right now:

[abarro81]

You should have a flash go on La Cara Tom, its basically a long 7B+ boulder. Not 8a but pota de elephant there is also good. If you want an 8b but thunk migranya is too much then Cronica (goes through the middle of the migranya profunda travel) is easier and less taxing on the enduro than migranya

[Doylo]

Yep Cara is great fun (peak 7c+  ) . There are short routes at the Laboratori in Margelf which are pretty cool but I wouldn't recommend them as the pockets just eat your skin.

[wsmith]

Dando Brea at Finestra fits the bill. A few pockets but they're not minging.

[bendavison]

I think there's a few at Balco d'Ermita (sp?) in Margalef which are close to what you're after. More power enduro than bouldery though.

[Stu Littlefair]

Very few actual bouldery routes at Margalef outside of laboratory, which isn't the nicest sector.

Laura is a great 8a at Balco on tufa, but is v hard. Mente en Blanc at Cova Boix is very good and not sustained or pockety. Dr Feelgood next door is a classic, not bouldery but soft.

At Finestra aeroplastica is a short non pockety 7c+ with a more pockety 8a extension. Nearby at Tenebres the 8a there is amazing and not pockety by Margalef standards but is also power endurance based. As are most things at Margalef to be frank. If you don't want to get pumped or pull on pockets spend most of your time elsewhere.


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[T_B]

Thanks for the recommendations guys 

It might be a bit of a dilemma where to go if this weather continues to hold. Hopefully I'm not completely unfit due to having at least been doing some circuits. Would quite like to check out Margalef to see what all the fuss is about. If you rock up having driven over from Cornudella in the morning, are those sectors mentioned above relatively obvious/easy walks (soz, not got hold of guidebook yet, but will do..)?

[Stu Littlefair]

Finestra and Tenebres are the main sectors in the second valley. Dead easy to find, obvious parking. Laboratory couldn't be more roadside or obvious. Cova Boix is a little harder to spot - it's opposite laboratory on the shady side of the valley, but you park a fair bit earlier on. Obvious path from there...


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[Mirf]

Probably a bit late now but an 8a called Busamente es farsante at siurana is good bouldery fun.

[Mirf]

Sorry it's called , Bustamante el paleta farsante - Siurana.