[Muenchener]

So not many deeds of power carried out this week? Certainly not by me.

STG (2015): 6C on plastic, onsight 6b+ on plastic
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Difficult balancing act at the moment. Trying to go easy on tweaked & battered fingers for a couple of weeks before starting the winter training campaign, but the lad is suddenly fired up with enthusiasm for indoor bouldering, and this is something I want to support and encourage. Requires self discipline to go to the wall with him and not get sucked into trying anything hard/tweaky.


M:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Boulder comp with M jnr. Weighted pullups 3 x 4 x +10kg
W:   
T:
F: Bike to work 25km
S: Airport bike tour with M jnr Take 2. Highlight: three hours riding on nice woodland paths by the river. Lowlight: airport cafe food. Will take sandwiches next time.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt with M jnr. In the interests of taking it easy on the fingers, warmed up and then spent some time working on body tensiony roof boulders. Boulderwelt also has various sets of round/blobby/slopy campus arrangements; had a play on these and managed 1-3-5 on two different kinds of blob. yyfy.

[T_B]

84.5Kg

M -
T - School lunch. Campus. 1-5-8 x 4 on right, 1-4-7 on left. 1-3-2-4-3-5 x 3. P.m. School for 2nd session of the day as thought I wouldn't be climbing later in the week... Mainly 50deg - did Basic Jez and Woodology on first attempts. Close on Mr Blobby. Finished with purple 8a+ circuit (last done 31 July) and close on another circuit, just slipping off at the end.
W - Foundry lunch. Circuit board, but too tired to link much. Should have rested.
T -
F - Day off and ended up with 2.5 hours at the School as weather rubbish. Felt tired warming up, did 1-4-7 a few times. Then got stuck into pink circuit. Linked first 5 moves for the first time ever, then linked first 26, next 1/3rd of circuit, then did drop down move for the first time and so last 1/3rd of circuit. Major breakthrough! Not sure if anyone has actually done the entire circuit, but it's at least F8c and just the first 3rd felt like F8a+/8b.
S - Works with visiting mate, first time since 3 April. General problems. Noticed lower back still felt pretty stiff on anything techy/clampy.

What was going to be a light week ended up being a really hard week. Psyched to link the start of the pink circuit as this felt night on impossible when it first went up. Can imagine linking the first two sections, but with no rest before the final 1/3rd, the full link is a looooong way off.

In other news, 50deg board is being re-set to the correct angle on 24 November, so am expecting some progress on these problems next month 

One training nugget. I am better on circuits despite having done few circuits recently, I think, due to my FBing block and fingers being stronger on the moves.

[cheque]

So not many deeds of power carried out this week? Certainly not by me.

Me neither...

STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a

M-F- Nothing. Recovering from cold, work conference and car in and out of garage.  

Sa- Climbing Unit, Derby. Never climbed here despite it being ~30 minutes drive from my house, lots of people having told me it's good and a mate working and setting there. Unsurprisingly it turns out to be really good. A good companion wall to the Depot in fact, having lots more vert and slab walls & a long continuously-steep overhang. had a blast, did one Blue problem (6C+-7A+ apparently) and loads a bit easier.

Su- Rest.

[nai]

stg - winter training
mtg - spring crushing
ltg - autumn crushing

M - Aero at MiniWorks 2x30 mins, good intensity.

T - Fingerboard (wrong way round I know but was feeling my back on Monday)

w rest ahead of....

Th lattice board assessment. Looks like I'm going to be spending my winter mostly working the Aeros

F - Aero. Decent intensity again, 3x25mins.

S rest

S - mini works with nipper, she did the blues while I did the blacks and wondered at what point this scenario would be reversed, then she tried reds while I did about half the yellows & murples.
40-50 problems in the end followed by a short deadhang session afterwards.

[SA Chris]

M - Elbow still feeling tweaky, so avoided much pulling hard this week. Core Session
T - Nothing - worked all evening
W - Nothing - worked all evening
T - core session
F - First round Winter Bouldering Series. Felt more nervous than I should, but warmed up OK, got on some of the hardish probs while feeling strong and flashed the ones I could, and then got totally shut down by the harder ones. Only one I cocked up sequence on, and realised I should have got it easily. Anyway, finished first in veterans (not sure how many there were,  but more than 3), not sure about how I would have placed overall, will be able to work it out once results come in.
S - nothing, surprisingly knackered.
S - still surprisingly knackered. Swim with Kyle in afternoon, bit of core in evening. Elbow feels better though.

[duncan]

STG: Rehab. finger. Strength work: fingerboard or bouldering twice a week as finger allows.
MTG: E5 OS and 7b RP by end of year. 7a+ OS and 7b RP in Chulilla in the new year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.

M - Shoulder and hip routine
T - Social climbing at the Biscuit Factory. Easy bouldering to ~V2
W - Shoulders and hips
T - Westway bouldering to ~V2+
F
S
S - Portland Cuttings with the bridbeast, the retired super-alpinist and the young hipster. Damp, greasy and intermittent light drizzle but good to get out. Did some old favourites and some new stuff, up to ~6b. Finger about 60%, shoulder feels good.

Finger improving slowly, syke returning. The E5 and 7b goals for this year are unrealistic now and I'm switching to a longer perspective. Plan now is to slowly ramp up the strength work, aim for a mini-peak for the new year, with the main goals being late spring and early summer. More of the same this week.

[Schnell]

STG: fix finger tweaks, negative progress on this last week. NNFN. read on for the sorry details

Was taking it easy last week after coming back from spain, but still managed to break myself slightly, which is a real ballbreaker because I'd just been getting back to some sort of fighting form after about 1.5 years of consistent finger injuries.

M. rest
T. works short easy session flashing new problems
W. went to gym to restart deadlifting campaign feeling very fresh but managed to tweak a collateral ligament lifting the bar on a warm up set of about bodyweight. This wasn't a reoccurrence of an old injury and seems to be taking the piss, whatever about existing injuries I don't understand how it's possible to give myself a new one holding a bar.
T F. nothing
S. go to works to reappraise damage, not good. did some core instead.
S. book to see physio, hopeful as always that they can shed some light on the cause of recurring injuries.

[36chambers]

STG: Climb outside
MTG: Jason's Roof/Ben's groove assis/Dialectics
LTG: 8B

M: indoors, lots of roofs, with focus on power endurance.
T: lunch time circuit training. Good session.
W: indoors, steep stuff, body tension, no cutting loose, power endurance. Finished before knackered.
T: Almscliff! Finally a break in the wet weather. Took the day off work and went with the gf. Glorious conditions and also bumped into Mr Dawes trying to walk his way up Low Man. Good session repeating stuff and being a beta monkey for the gf. I love climbing outside.
F: Week 9 (again) of the gym ball core workout. Had to try hard this time.
S: Rain. Guests, homemade pizza and board games.
S: Rain. Indoors, easy session.

Stupid weather.

[Schnell]

STG: fix finger tweaks, negative progress on this last week. NNFN. read on for the sorry details

Was taking it easy last week after coming back from spain, but still managed to break myself slightly, which is a real ballbreaker because I'd just been getting back to some sort of fighting form after about 1.5 years of consistent finger injuries.

M. rest
T. works short easy session flashing new problems
W. went to gym to restart deadlifting campaign feeling very fresh but managed to tweak a collateral ligament lifting the bar on a warm up set of about bodyweight. This wasn't a reoccurrence of an old injury and seems to be taking the piss, whatever about existing injuries I don't understand how it's possible to give myself a new one holding a bar.
T F. nothing
S. go to works to reappraise damage, not good. did some core instead.
S. book to see physio, hopeful as always that they can shed some light on the cause of recurring injuries.

In light of the above, I think I'll be working hard on core strength for a bit. Being a lanky skinny fella this is a weakness, I think particularly the 'posterior chain' although that's just my diagnosis. I've been trying to deadlift once a week which I could possibly increase to two sessions, though it leaves me pretty broken.  Any suggestions for what I should be doing? Stuff complementary to deadlifting maybe?

[Nibile]

Power Club
S/MTG - board projects.

Mon - snatch pulls, dumbbell complex (speed). Hill sprints. Brilliant.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Despite being tired, managed to climb strong and basically did my project, alas with the original start and not the new, harder one. Which is dabby though. Mega high intensity. Dumbbell complex (static) x2, surprisingly strong.
Thu - board climbing with friends, fingers still very very tired from previous session. Tried another project, was sure I was going to do it, but it's hard. As it was meant to be. Big session, did too much.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board climbing, did the project with both the original and the new start. Mega session, mega glory. Mentally at best. Tried a new warm up with some serious power recruitment with jumps and snatch pulls, it seems to work a  treat! Finished with some snatch variations.
Sun - rest and sleep after a night out on the gin.

[shark]

10.13-11.00

M.AM. Systems board. Bouldered for 20 mins then did 1 set of 20/10's = 120 moves. First two 20s on inciut edges and all 10s on incut edges Evening. Ben took me down the Works to burn me off. Crowded and hot. Ben wouldn't let me take my top off. Tried a few murples. Failed on all of them. Had a horrid time
T. Slightly ill
W. Very ill
T. Slightly ill
F.
S. Malham with Tommy. No one else there all day. Unsurprisingly. Tried to dry out bottom of Raindogs for him with mixed success. He tried hard for about 4 hours but the cards were stacked against him and he only got to the rest once. I mainly belayed.
S. Eve. Foundry Wave. First time in forever. Did all level twos bar one on steep section. A spotty and got close on a yellow and black. Keen to see how far lowere weight and stronger fingers will get me this winter

On Wednesday the left side of my face swelled up so went to Doctors for first time in maybe 10 years. Prescribed penicillin but reacted badly and took to bed dry heaving and feverish. After that swelling subsided gradually over next couple of days.

Disappointed Tommy wasn't able to tick Raindogs but it wasn't through want of trying.

 

[Will Hunt]

STG: Heaven in your Hands
MTG: FA projects; Two Squirrels; Crystal Method; Secret Seventh; Terry; Rogue (Bat Buttress)
LTG: 8A (possibly something like Vogue at Bat Buttress)

Not a very good week this week.

M:

T: Thought St Ives might be dry since it had been dry, windy, and not too humid during the day. Walked in and found everything at the altar to be very wet. Fortunately there was one wall that was effectively dry but was covered in hundreds of glittering blobs of condensation. Dried the holds quite effectively with a towel and spent a little time figuring out the easiest sequence. This is the project for which 7B+ was mooted in the guide so it gives me hope for the ones forecasted to be 7C and 8s.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26504.0.html

W: Tried the fortnightly Irish trad session in Otley. Quite quiet and different from the Leeds session. Just 2 other fiddles, a melodeon, and an instrument whose name I do not know!

Th: Moved a sofa up a flight of stairs

F:

S: RAIN

Su: MORE RAIN. Put up some shelves.

 

[cheque]

Ben took me down the Works to burn me off. Crowded and hot. Ben wouldn't let me take my top off.

  I assume this is your son, not Ben Moon.

[filz]

M - fb max hangs. Good session. Added crimp hangs to the usual hangs
T - climbing on the board. Not bad despite the lower back pain
W - rest
T - lunch: bodyweight excercises (push ups, tuck L-sit, tuck planche). Afternoon: climbed with friends on Nibs board.
F - rest
S - S Bouldering in Chironico with some friends. Had a lot of fun, but I didn't climb anything significative. Tried a 6c+ and a couple of 7a and found them really hard.

[Nibile]

T - lunch: bodyweight excercises (push ups, tuck L-sit, tuck planche). Afternoon: climbed with friends on Nibs board.

Thu - board climbing with friends, fingers still very very tired from previous session. Tried another project, was sure I was going to do it, but it's hard. As it was meant to be. Big session, did too much.
Fri - rest.

[filz]

T - lunch: bodyweight excercises (push ups, tuck L-sit, tuck planche). Afternoon: climbed with friends on Nibs board.

Thu - board climbing with friends, fingers still very very tired from previous session. Tried another project, was sure I was going to do it, but it's hard. As it was meant to be. Big session, did too much.
Fri - rest.

And I should add that on Saturday I was still tired.. Sessions on Nibs board are always hard :-)

Inviato dal mio Nexus 7 utilizzando Tapatalk

[36chambers]

STG: Heaven in your Hands
MTG: FA projects; Two Squirrels; Crystal Method; Secret Seventh; Terry; Rogue (Bat Buttress)
LTG: 8A (possibly something like Vogue at Bat Buttress)

Not a very good week this week.

M:

T: Thought St Ives might be dry since it had been dry, windy, and not too humid during the day. Walked in and found everything at the altar to be very wet. Fortunately there was one wall that was effectively dry but was covered in hundreds of glittering blobs of condensation. Dried the holds quite effectively with a towel and spent a little time figuring out the easiest sequence. This is the project for which 7B+ was mooted in the guide so it gives me hope for the ones forecasted to be 7C and 8s.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26504.0.html

W: Tried the fortnightly Irish trad session in Otley. Quite quiet and different from the Leeds session. Just 2 other fiddles, a melodeon, and an instrument whose name I do not know!

Th: Moved a sofa up a flight of stairs

F:

S: RAIN

Su: MORE RAIN. Put up some shelves.

 

You have a woody, why haven't you been climbing on your woody?

[fried]

Another week of family commitments.

STG - Do some training

M - Hunting day in the forest, went to Canche aux Mercier, there seemed to have been some overnight rain. A bit greasy and didn't do much, tried Jeu des Jambes again but it all felt wrong. Did some crappy sit-starts.

T - Nothing
W - 1 set BM, felt O.K since it's been a while since I've done any. 7on 3 off Jugs/ jugs/ 4 finger deep/ 3 finger deep/ 4 finger deep/ jugs. Far too warm and greasy for another set.

Th - Nothing
Fr - Off to Soissons to visit Brother-in-law.
Sa - Drank all day.
Su - Put some candles at Rue Fontaine de roi in Paris, had a beer on a terrace.

Put on some weight over the weekend. Not happy about that.

[webbo]

Mon. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Board working out problems with some used holds I bought at the Leeds wall, they seem smoother than my wood holds.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board worked out a few more problems with the new holds. Bike 1 hour in the wind and rain.
Sun. Board lapping stuff with diffrent foot holds. Bike 90 mins in the wind and rain.
Still eating and drinking too much.

[tomtom]

M: Logport Wall - good 2 hour lunchtime session.
Tu: Up at 4am - fly to Tenerife for fieldwork. Long days, lots of walking/scrambling - nice food not too much booze
We
Th
Fri
Sa: Return at about midnight..
Su: Rest.

Managed to only gain a couple of pounds whilst away ~ not too bad.

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: 4x4s and circuits at TCA. Tired, not much done.

Tue: Max hangs (10s), 20mm +30kg, 16mm +20kg

Wed: TCA, Woody Wednesday. Short powerful problems, trying to improve contact strength.

Thu: Run 5km.

Fri: Rain. Not psyched for climbing and elbow feeling tweaky so went for another run.

Sat: Rain. Rain. More rain. Max hangs as per Tues.

Sun: Went out for Shurt's birthday bash to Dartmoor. Despite an underwhelming start (read: getting rained at and nearly blown away at Haytor car park), ended up going to Bovey Woods. Magically dry (ish) and sunny (ish), did some great slab problems and had lots of fun failing on Nether Edge (what a line!). Brilliant day, good times and company, pint after

[k2ted]

Stg - keep building up after 2  1/2 years off, currently just under 15 stone  need to loose at least a stone...
Ltg - 7a sport & V6

Monday - boulderuk
Tues - rest
Weds - rest
Thurs - 20 min run & 30 mins fingerboard, slowly breaking in crimp and managed 8 secs bottom crimps on BM2000, gonna be a long haul...
Fri - rest
Sat & sun - worked in house both days.

[JackAus]

Rain rain rain rain... 

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: St Leonards. Felt ok after weekend so decided to do a 2.5 hr campus session. Doing the same 2 basic moves in training for crux of DWS project (been doing alot of this...). Moves are 1-3R-5R and 1-3L-6R. Pretty much on the minute every minute for 2.5hrs straight. So fucking tired by end.
T: St Leonards. Usual Tuesday. 15 new problems every week (piss easy to hard), try and do all of them. This set was tough. Eventually got all bar the hardest and that is very height dependent with an impossible last move. A couple of the problems no one else had gotten that night (routesetting day is always busiest....) that I managed. And apparently the way I did them, people looked and stopped trying them. Started making my own toughies. Managed 1...
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Warmed up doing all bar hardest new probs and then went straight back to my problems. Struggled up one and then failed miserably on others so turned it to a dyno session with some others. I'm not exactly a dyno god but I do like them. Everyone else would struggle on them when I make them usually pretty easy, so I ended up making some pretty tough 2nd generation one along with pogos (people really suck at these here!!)
F: Rest.
S: St Peters. Did some tough problems, failed on easy ones. The usual. Did some dynos, failed on lots of others. Fun session.
S: St Helen's Park cave. The lengths you go to for a potentially dry crag... Had never been here and still did the hour + drive in the hope of it being dry and it paid off. Bone dry but very sharp. Very steep, lowball and burly as fuck. Most problems here are out through flat roof then turn lip and up headwall to finish.
Warmed up flashing a V3 then doing a V5 2nd go (was tough!!) then got onto Ice Eyes V7. All moves quickly bar moving through the hole. Could prob beast it and cut but don't want to risk dislocating my shoulder. Then onto Max I Am V8, big move to lip went easier than expected then crux is turning the lip. Only did the move once and it was brutal. Made some horrendous noises then. Honestly couldn't work out a decent way to do it so moved on to Nukproof V9. The only high-ish thing here. Nice standing start into some big moves on bad slopey crimps with slippery feet to a committing throw to a jug... Had a bunch of goes working out the first big move, blindish catch on slopey crimp. Very hard to keep tension through my foot for this. Would stay then pop and I'd helicopter off.
Very tired by this point so had a quick play on Lektra Ice V8 but way too sharp and way too burly to work and then finished up on Style Cat V6. Got all moves but waaaay too tired to link and skin was killing by this point. Drive home, collapse, sleep, so sore.
Will go back but only once much stronger and lots of skin. And every other crag rained out... Haha


Max I Am V8
This was attempt where I got the furthest from the start to the point of matching lip and throwing right hand up (held cut of this in iso only once. Brutal.).
Ice Eyes V7 starts on shelf on right and heads left low through the roof to finish up same as Max I Am.




Nukproof V9
Held this for a couple seconds but then foot slipped and helicopter...

[SA Chris]

Anyway, finished first in veterans (not sure how many there were,  but more than 3), not sure about how I would have placed overall, will be able to work it out once results come in.

Only 3 veterans, but I think 15th overall. Happy with that.

[Muenchener]

Tues: removed annoying pesky ledge on the new route I was trying the previous week. Now no-one can lank through the crux, and it looks harder and better.