[nai]

I don't need to watch it to judge.

[shark]

I'd like to clarify that I did not say I was a better Scientist than Einstein

The implication was crystal

[tomtom]

I'd like to clarify that I did not say I was a better Scientist than Einstein

The implication was crystal

I think you've been on the crystal (meth)..... Anyway, the story was about Einsteins son - wash your ears out

[Grubes]

Are you trying to go straight for the jug or to the crimp? Crimp is roughly 1-3/3.5 on rungs jug is 1-4/4,5

[nik at work]

Not wanting to interupt this incisive debate but...

The boy managed to break his fall up some steps with his face at school today, leading to lots of blood, a "brisk" drive to school by the mrs and a n other trip to hospital. More blood tests...


...which revealed that somehow in the space of a few days his platelets have gone from 6,000 to 110,000 which is well on the way to normal. So much so that he is now green lighted for Spain. I am made up (as is he) 

Anyway carry on...

[tomtom]

Are you trying to go straight for the jug or to the crimp? Crimp is roughly 1-3/3.5 on rungs jug is 1-4/4,5

Great news for Nik Jnr. (And for the trip).

I'm going for the crimpy edge thing on the rh corner about 5-10 cm from the big edge... That's right yes?

[shark]

I'd like to clarify that I did not say I was a better Scientist than Einstein

The implication was crystal

I think you've been on the crystal (meth)..... Anyway, the story was about Einsteins son - wash your ears out

So what you said was Albert told his son that working out the movement of river mud was too difficult so by extension Albert is less tefal headed than Tomtom

[tomtom]

Ahh.. You misunderstand - my point was that Einstein snr was reflecting on the complexity (and futility) of the task.. Wasn't meant to reflect on my own (in)ability...

(I bet he used heels though...)

[nik at work]

I got an intermediate slightly lower thing then bumped to the big hold. Pretty sure GCW has a vid on his vimeo account of me doing it. Not sure if any of that helps as I am of normal height.  Frankly if you stopped wasting your time on bad mouthing dead scientists and did a bit of lock off practice it should be a formality.

[Grubes]

yup crimpy edge on the right first then up to the big juggy stuff with the right.

you could try some heel hook trickery like Jon in the photo I linked before but hes really short so would need to be further out really. have you looked at the 7b version at all? Not been up since james pulled the crux hold off.

[tomtom]

Ok - so rh up first to a med crimpy edge about 10cm above the big lower hold you go off then go again?

Interestingly I can get about 5cm higher with my Lh but that means going for the higher lh side of things! Tried the heels - and heel and slapping up the arete (did you know it sounds hollow!!) but just a bit too bunched..

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Tweaky wrist suddenly is a lot worse really painful. Nothing.
Wed. Wrist still sore. Turbo 1 hour.
Thu. Wrist still sore. Turbo 1 hour.
Fri. Wrist much better. Nothing.
Sat. Wrist feels fine. Board just repeated a few things.
Sun. Wrist fine again. Bike 64.16 miles 3 hrs 45 mins. Got overtaken by a group of 4 young guys from a local club who were going the same way as I planned to ride. Managed to stay with them even on the hills, going quite well.

[Will Hunt]

I'm back, what did I miss?

I was on the board on Tuesday night, wondering whether what I was doing was actually going to make me climb any harder on the rock and generally despairing at being crap, and I came back to the old question of asking what my weaknesses are and what I might do to improve them using the tools that I have at my disposal (a BM2000, a pull up bar, a 40 degree board which is covered in crimps, an occassional trip to the Depot).

I started making a list of problems which I have failed on and why I think that might be, and I have listed these out here:

Help The Aged (albeit at the end of the day) - feet-off/poor feet pulling power on the top sloper.

Brass Monkeys (I could get to the last compression position easily enough and hold the swing but couldn't move from there) - lack of compression power, lack of feet-off power, difficulty in replacing high feet after a swing (loosely put: core?)

Heaven in your Hands (I'm falling off the move to get the crimp in the middle of the wall) - not pinching the arete hard enough, not "udging" into the move (i.e. trying to do it too statically)

Molly Moocher (SDS) - lack of power/committment in a big board-style slap

That 7C jumpy thing on the RHS of Anston's - lack of feet-off power to finish the moves after the throw I think

Under a Full Moon - Lack of power? Lack of "udge"

Over Easy - moving feet around awkwardly under a roof (loosely put: core?)


That seems to highlight a few problems:

• Lack of feet off power (mainly on rounded, compressiony holds)
• Trying to do things too statically?
• Lack of "core"

There are a few people on here who have climbed with me and watched me on these problems. Would you agree that these three weak points accurately describe why I tend to fail on stuff? I've been told that all my problems stem from not ever doing Ab Ripper X, but I remain convinced by the UKB massive that front lever progressions are what needs to be done.

It also struck me, in a sort of "well, duh" moment of inspiration, that I haven't really projected anything in quite a long time , and in fact I may have only ever properly "projected" (by which I mean, focussed on one problem and made repeat visits over a short time period) Underhand and, to a lesser extent, The Keel (this excludes various FA projects). Everything else has been done in a session, or a couple of visits, or through very occassional sessions (say, one visit per season). Whilst this is enjoyable, it has limited me somewhat to 7B+ in the wall climbing and 7B or lower in the dreaded roof stylee. It would be good to break out of this habit, so I thought I'd set some more specific goals:


STG: Heaven in your Hands
MTG: FA projects; Two Squirrels; Crystal Method; Secret Seventh; Terry; Rogue (Bat Buttress)
LTG: 8A (possibly something like Vogue at Bat Buttress)

I'd be interested to know what my climbing partners make of all that waffle.

[Footwork]

I hope these opinions help, Will.

- Help the aged

The problem was not being able to pull down and mantle on the sloper to gain height when there are no feet. Flexibility also helps to get your feet up.

- Brass monkeys

No core to hold the swing. You were tiring out massively trying to hold it so there was no core left to get the heel up and slap to the jug.

The others are pretty much as you described.

The other problem you have is stamina. You get tired throughout the day quickly, hence no success on HTA which you should have done. Try having longer sessions. We used to have 2 hours on the teknoe board.

Agree with the projecting. Pick something that will take you more than 3 sessions. Curious Yellow? You should try superset again too because it's good and board style.

You'll piss two squirrels because you can reach the jug pinch

You have the skill and finger strength but lack the raw power. You have no excuse with those training tools. I only have the floor at my house

[Schnell]

Bit of a late post this but anyway.
STG. fix wide variety of injuries, knee and fingers, all making slow progress. 7c on upcoming trip to chulilla but dependent on goal no1.
MTG. all about short term these days.

Tues and Thurs. Did indoor bouldering and endurance sessions respectively. Had a good indoor session on tues but was undermined by tweaking a tendon at the back of my knee, semimembranosus I think based on internet research. So that was pretty shit.
Sat and Sun. Outdoors both days, first curbar where I did trackside and anything else I could without tweaking the injured knee, and burbage north on sunday though just pottered about and didn't try anything hard.

I was just getting into deadlifting and some other gym stuff to help my not very strong core in the last while so I reckon this knee strain is related to that, but annoying because I feel like I was starting to see benefits. Hopefully it'll heal fairly quick.

[SA Chris]

• Lack of "core"

I've never seen you climbing, so can't say if your core strength is crap, but if it is a genuine weakness (and you being a lanky bugger it probably is) it's probably one that's fairly easy to fix compared to the other two things you highlight as potential issues; doing front levers as you say, but I found even doing basics like planks and side planks has really improved mine (although admittedly it was terrible before) and fairly easy to work on at any time (even watching telly) and has a relatively low injury risk associated with it.

[tomtom]

You forgot 'getting old' to your list Will

[SA Chris]

If Will's getting old I need to add" nearly dead" to my list of issues.

[tomtom]

If Will's getting old I need to add" nearly dead" to my list of issues.

Thats termed second coming...

[tomtom]

Are you trying to go straight for the jug or to the crimp? Crimp is roughly 1-3/3.5 on rungs jug is 1-4/4,5

Well - just been to the wall and I can campus 1-4-7.... whats going on!!!!

[cheque]

You're too strong for the grade you climb TT. Get out of the wall and climb on some real rock for once. 

[nai]

Well - just been to the wall and I can campus 1-4-7.... whats going on!!!!

which rungs?

[tomtom]

Well - just been to the wall and I can campus 1-4-7.... whats going on!!!!

which rungs?

Big fat fuckers

Actually, I think I may have misunderstood 1-4-7 - mine is more like 1-4-4-7... oops... is 1-4-7 some sort of wad status thing?

Anyway, its do do with the gap I have to campus on that silly pig in a pokey problem - Grubes reconed it was about 1-3 or 1-3.5 and I think it must be a bit further. Or theres less gravity in Stockport - all the wall has cheaty spaces between them.

Edit - having seen the below, I am a fraud and a charlatan...

[36chambers]

Well - just been to the wall and I can campus 1-4-7.... whats going on!!!!

which rungs?

Big fat fuckers

Actually, I think I may have misunderstood 1-4-7 - mine is more like 1-4-4-7... oops... is 1-4-7 some sort of wad status thing

I was very surprised to see that you could do 1-4-7 but not do PIAP, now it makes sense

I can't touch 1-4-7 but didn't find PIAP that bad. I thought the move was around 3.5. 

Have you just had one session on it? It may simply be a case that you were tired or powered out? If I'm not feeling fresh then my explosive pulling power is definitely the first thing to go. I'll still feel strong and be able to climb hard, but I just won't have enough for a quick poweful pulling move.

For example I found the semi-campus slap move on T-crack piss mid way through the day, I came back at the end to finish it off, still feeling strong and good, only to find that I had no power left to generate enough speed for the move. It was more of a pathetic lock off with a quick snatch.

 

[tomtom]

I can't touch 1-4-7 but didn't find PIAP that bad. I thought the move was around 3.5. 

Have you just had one session on it? It may simply be a case that you were tired or powered out? If I'm not feeling fresh then my explosive pulling power is definitely the first thing to go. I'll still feel strong and be able to climb hard, but I just won't have enough for a quick poweful pulling move.

Quite possibly... it was baltic when I last tried it..