UKBouldering.com

Blood falls at rowtor (Read 2788 times)

twoshoes

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 71
  • Karma: +2/-0
Blood falls at rowtor
September 30, 2015, 10:52:16 am
Is there a knack to bloody falls,  or do you just need a strong left arm? I never seem  to be able  to weight the high foot, but I can't generate any oomph to start the move either and  I've lost track of the number of sessions I've spent on it.

dave

  • Guest
#1 Re: Blood falls at rowtor
September 30, 2015, 11:03:19 am
If you're not a midget you can get whatever the highest pair of decent pockets is, NOT crossed hands, left foot on something decent (low break?) and then go big with left hand to top where there's a slight runnel.

Johnny Brown

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11481
  • Karma: +702/-22
#2 Re: Blood falls at rowtor
September 30, 2015, 11:32:30 am
I think it's easy to get sucked into this sort of caper:



When actually you can just do this:



(The Boy is neither midget nor giant)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29324
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix

twoshoes

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 71
  • Karma: +2/-0
#4 Re: Blood falls at rowtor
September 30, 2015, 01:57:00 pm
Ta. I'm not a midget but everyone I've tried the problem with is, and for some reason I decided that going off the pockets to the top wasn't cricket. I'll take my blinkers off and try again.

Johnny Brown

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11481
  • Karma: +702/-22
#5 Re: Blood falls at rowtor
September 30, 2015, 02:20:17 pm
I know what you mean. These clever dicks with their simple sequences. Seems a crime not to use that hold with the left hand.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#6 Re: Blood falls at rowtor
October 05, 2015, 06:13:36 pm
Did this yesterday. Instead of bowling up left had to the runnel, which I couldn't get without some savage torque pulling me off, I slapped left hand to the slopey top as far left as possible, then slapped right hand into the sloper at the apex of the prow from a slight toe-hook. Slapping far left meant there was something in opposition for me to pull on and squeeze when I caught the right sloper. Great problem!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal