Quote from: iwasmexican on April 17, 2016, 11:12:52 amQuote from: ghisino on April 16, 2016, 09:40:32 pmQuote from: GraemeA on April 16, 2016, 09:06:19 pm Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocksI sometimes wonder if his "upside down theory" has a small element of truth. I think more than anything the holds being consistently used for 20 odd minutes beforehand plays a big part in this, I mean even if they are getting brushed they're still going to heat up and world cup holds don't tend to be very incut...Jens talks bollocks because he cherry picks his stats and ignores all other considerations.Eg 1 the stats will not show that if Ty had done P4 1st or 2nd try then he won thus disproving the upside down nonsense.Eg 2 Shauna has won 4 times now, twice from 1st in the semi, once from 5th and once from 6th. Hardly conclusive evidence for anything other than the theory is there is bugger all correlation between start position and final ranking.Eg 3 In the CWIF you know that you are either getting the slab in the semi or in the final (likewise with the vert return on the other side). So if you get the slab in the semi and are good at them then you might qualify highly but do badly in the final because your forte is missing. This type of thing happens at most World Cups
Quote from: ghisino on April 16, 2016, 09:40:32 pmQuote from: GraemeA on April 16, 2016, 09:06:19 pm Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocksI sometimes wonder if his "upside down theory" has a small element of truth. I think more than anything the holds being consistently used for 20 odd minutes beforehand plays a big part in this, I mean even if they are getting brushed they're still going to heat up and world cup holds don't tend to be very incut...
Quote from: GraemeA on April 16, 2016, 09:06:19 pm Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocksI sometimes wonder if his "upside down theory" has a small element of truth.
Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocks
There is also the fact that no one who doesn't climb is going to watch a climbing comp, by that I mean with no association to climbing. So why do they cater primarily for these people? Fair enough if it's part of some massive thing, say the olympics, but it never is.
Will someone who cares please do a Pearson's correlation on semi rank vs final rank for, say, 2015. If it's significantly negativedon't tell Jens. If it's NS or significantly positive, tell Jens.
Will someone who cares please do a Pearson's correlation on semi rank vs final rank for, say, 2015. If it's significantly negative don't tell Jens. If it's NS or significantly positive, tell Jens.
I can't think of anybody apart from me in my circle of regular climbing partners who follows or gives a shit about comps, and I only follow or give a shit about bouldering. Otoh the live audience turnout at events in Munich is usually pretty large, so maybe my mates aren't typical.
Broadcasting issues aside (I didn't watch live, but the catch up video starts halfway through M1...) good start to the season.Women's was quite a surprise. Akiyo not only looked tired, but wasn't reading beta well, didn't look herself at all? Laurel resting or an off day? Next week will show. Janja looked either gassed or just didn't have the raw power in the first place - she's so slender compared to the others... Enjoyed the mantle (W3?) - we've all been there.I think I mentioned after the Rockstars (or Legends Only... the one where Janja destroyed everyone), although it was a thrashing, she was competing against a recently recovered Stoher, a non-comp ready Shauna, a no-longer-competing Wurm and an only-just-competed La Neve so might have skewed the results slightly.
it seems that people who qualify really highly don't have as much left in the tank on finals day. There's probably a lot to be said for having enough comp experience to dose your effort correctly.
... the winners of the semis will have done the problems in the fewest goes, thus having spent the least effort.
Mellisa (hottest competitor by far)
Mrs and I watched the semis and finals (not live we were out climbing ) and weren't as captivated as previous years - probably lots of reasons for this - however, enjoyed overall. Great to see Shauna look so strong and Mellisa (hottest competitor by far) do so well! Looking forward to Japan...
Quote from: fatneck on April 18, 2016, 12:50:47 pmMellisa (hottest competitor by far)Jessica Pilz!
Quote from: Muenchener on April 18, 2016, 01:09:57 pmQuote from: fatneck on April 18, 2016, 12:50:47 pmMellisa (hottest competitor by far)Jessica Pilz!Anna Laitinen?
Quote from: Muenchener on April 18, 2016, 01:09:57 pmQuote from: fatneck on April 18, 2016, 12:50:47 pmMellisa (hottest competitor by far)Jessica Pilz!Anna Laitinen? (Normally doesn't get through the quals)
Obviously you weren't as captivated as you weren't catching fleeting glimpses of yours truly flitting around