Caff's 100 best E5s (Read 16902 times)

Stabbsy · August 07, 2015, 02:32:33 pm

16 for me, plus swapped leads on another one (Supernatural) where I followed the crux pitch. Quite a lot of softies, some I agree with and some less so. Warpath at E3 seems very harsh, certainly not the easiest of the ones I've done - Rimsky or Central Wall felt easier to me.

Wood FT · August 07, 2015, 02:54:36 pm

in no way related to soft E5s but....

what's the skinny on blue scar... do I have to actually show the farmer my BMC card (I don't even know where mine is if I have one) to get access or do you have to call him beforehand?

ChrisC · August 07, 2015, 02:56:05 pm

Great list. Plenty of inspiration there....

Maybe I was having a bad day, or Toby a good one but surely Warpath is not the same grade as Centrefold or The Sun!?

DAVETHOMAS90 · August 07, 2015, 06:02:31 pm

Quote from: Stu Littlefair on August 07, 2015, 12:44:13 pm

I've done 20, but hardlyacey of those are the peak ones! Time to sort that out I think.

Can't believe the Vanishing is not on the list! Best route in the whole wide world. I think there's a case to be made for Flaming Drambuie and Il Duce as well - definitely better than Pseudo sport routes like Just Klingon...

Wow Stu, great to hear some appreciation for the Drambuie!

Did you have a look at the direct, which I really think is ace?

How many of these 5s could rightfully claim a place amongst the 6s, and vice versa?

Stu Littlefair · August 07, 2015, 06:41:55 pm

I did both whilst living in Devon. Best route on sanctuary wall IMO.

I'd be interested to know which people think are the hard ones on the list - I have such a mental block about E6, perhaps a few hard 5s would help me break through.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

T_B · August 07, 2015, 07:12:51 pm

Pandoras box is pretty intense but reasonably safe.
shittlegruber is fairly l hand red wallish e5 that used to be e6
Moonshine is e6 if you're short
not done almighty but suspect it's stern
I've failed on fear and fascination twice but on sighted the classic E6 to its right.
not done the soft touch e6 on Scimitar ridge that's now e5. The e5 to its right is hard too.
He's not put Ringwraith on the list I can only assume because he considers it E6? Best mountain crag hard e5/soft e6 in lakes

Stabbsy · August 07, 2015, 08:00:42 pm

Quote from: Stu Littlefair on August 07, 2015, 06:41:55 pm

I'd be interested to know which people think are the hard ones on the list - I have such a mental block about E6, perhaps a few hard 5s would help me break through.

I found Golden Mile the hardest of the ones I've done - although I suspect the lack of chalk and most of the holds being covered in dust and/or cobwebs made it harder than it needed to be. Doubt it's anywhere near E6 though.

Quote from: T_B on August 07, 2015, 07:12:51 pm

I've failed on fear and fascination twice but on sighted the classic E6 to its right.

Off topic, but does anyone know what state Dove is in at the moment? I've got a week off coming up and a ticklist as long as my arm (and I have long arms!).

Neil F · August 07, 2015, 08:17:42 pm

Quote from: Stu Littlefair on August 07, 2015, 06:41:55 pm

I'd be interested to know which people think are the hard ones on the list - I have such a mental block about E6, perhaps a few hard 5s would help me break through.

Heart of Gold is quite tasty (or at least it was in 1983), and Golden Mile has its moments as Stabbsy says. Interestingly I too failed on Fear and Fascination twice before doing it, whilst on sighting Fast and Furious and flashing the other E6s that were there at the time.

Marathon Man is quite spicy, and I thought Womb Bits was really thin.

I never did get up Bananas...

Stu Littlefair · August 07, 2015, 09:30:53 pm

Good arrows kids. I've done Moonshine so that's one down already. I'll put the others on the list. Never been to Dove...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TobyD · August 07, 2015, 09:59:49 pm

Quote from: Stu Littlefair on August 07, 2015, 09:30:53 pm

Good arrows kids. I've done Moonshine so that's one down already. I'll put the others on the list. Never been to Dove...

me neither! keen to get ot it... I'd agree with Neil's opinion of the golden mile as a tough one. Hunger is pretty tricky (and conditions dependent) too.

None from Dorset on the list: Lean Machine; Relax and Swing?

Fiend · August 07, 2015, 10:17:15 pm

Quote from: ChrisC on August 07, 2015, 02:56:05 pm

Great list. Plenty of inspiration there....

Maybe I was having a bad day, or Toby a good one but surely Warpath is not the same grade as Centrefold or The Sun!?

Well no cos The Sun is E2...

I do think Toby might be exaggerating though.

ChrisC · August 07, 2015, 11:21:13 pm

Quote from: Fiend on August 07, 2015, 10:17:15 pm

Well no cos The Sun is E2...

True... I did wonder that as I posted.

TobyD · August 07, 2015, 11:35:11 pm

Quote from: Fiend on August 07, 2015, 10:17:15 pm

Quote from: ChrisC on August 07, 2015, 02:56:05 pm
Great list. Plenty of inspiration there....

Maybe I was having a bad day, or Toby a good one but surely Warpath is not the same grade as Centrefold or The Sun!?

Well no cos The Sun is E2...

I do think Toby might be exaggerating though.

well ok, but compared to Peak limestone E3...
Anyway, more relevantly, do warpath and then Blackleg at Gogarth (both currently E5 since Blackleg was downgraded from E6) and tell me that they are both of a vaugely comparable difficulty.

Muenchener · August 08, 2015, 12:07:01 am

All rather abstract for me, but isn't Darkinbad reputed to be about the best trad route in England?

ding dong · August 08, 2015, 04:18:47 am

Quote from: TobyD on August 07, 2015, 11:35:11 pm

Anyway, more relevantly, do warpath and then Blackleg at Gogarth (both currently E5 since Blackleg was downgraded from E6) and tell me that they are both of a vaugely comparable difficulty.

Ha! very true!

ding dong · August 08, 2015, 04:29:16 am

Quote from: Muenchener on August 08, 2015, 12:07:01 am

All rather abstract for me, but isn't Darkinbad reputed to be about the best trad route in England?

excellent route, its on his list no?

ah, il duce on the list too, waiting 'til the tourists have left the island before sneaking over for an evening send, top pitch in the dark after our headtorch ran out, love the southwest!

ding dong · August 08, 2015, 04:40:22 am

to make room for some of the new suggestions how about choosing just one slate slab? and one red wall route and maybe there are other awesome but 'kind of duplicate' routes? maximum variety!

Mangoletsi direct, superdirect?! that's my route! pretty sure it shouldn't be in the list but well chuffed anyway.
anyone else got a route in there?

(maybe its a different Mangoletsi?)

ChrisC · August 08, 2015, 08:06:38 am

Quote from: TobyD on August 07, 2015, 11:35:11 pm

well ok, but compared to Peak limestone E3...
Anyway, more relevantly, do warpath and then Blackleg at Gogarth (both currently E5 since Blackleg was downgraded from E6) and tell me that they are both of a vaugely comparable difficulty.

I've only followed blackleg, but wouldn't disagree with you. That said, they aren't overly similar in style, blackleg being physically easier with minimal protection.

Another southwest suggestion, Wall of the World's at Swanage. Think it's E5 now and very good.

Gus · August 09, 2015, 11:59:26 am

Quote from: ChrisC on August 07, 2015, 02:56:05 pm

Great list. Plenty of inspiration there....

Maybe I was having a bad day, or Toby a good one but surely Warpath is not the same grade as Centrefold or The Sun!?

Clue's in the name: War-PATH!

Jerry Morefat · August 09, 2015, 02:23:43 pm

Quote from: GuyVG on August 07, 2015, 02:54:36 pm

what's the skinny on blue scar... do I have to actually show the farmer my BMC card (I don't even know where mine is if I have one) to get access or do you have to call him beforehand?

You need to fill out and send off a short form along with a photocopy of your BMC membership card. I sent mine off last week and got a response back within a couple of days. If you PM your email address I'll forward the form on to you.

kingholmesy · August 13, 2015, 11:30:10 pm

3 o/s plus fallen off 3 more.

For anyone who spotted the * next to Creeping Flesh, word on the street is that the peg by the crux is gone and it's now top of the grade.

Fiend · August 14, 2015, 09:17:43 am

shark · August 14, 2015, 09:28:52 am

Superb list

Not sure "Ships that pass in the Night" (which Ive done) and "John Wayne" (which I haven't) represent the very best of Pembroke.

I'd also agree that "War of the Worlds" at Swanage is suitably amazing to make the cut.

Dont know anything about El Coronel but Limehill is as good as Doubting Thomas.

I remember Joe Le Sage saying Pistolero is solid E6

Wad point for anyone who sets it up as a UKC ticklist: www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/sets.html

Johnny Brown · August 14, 2015, 02:45:45 pm

I think I've done 12 in decent style and seconded a few more. Great list but a bit light in some areas and I can't agree with a few of the soft touches, I guess maybe they feel easy if you can't get pumped on anything below E5 (e.g. Goosey goosey). On the other hand Track of the Cat is a total path, easy at E4, but no asterisk.

A few other classics I'd have included:

Grit: Chip Shop Brawl, Shirley's Shining Temple, Coventry Street (in 1 pitch), Hairless Heart, Ulysses or bust, Entropy's jaw, Curving arete

Peak Lime: Menopause, Ceramic extension, Midnight summer dream, Wall of straws

Lleyn: Crow, *Wanton desire, Honeydew

rosmat · August 14, 2015, 06:16:45 pm

Quote from: shark on August 14, 2015, 09:28:52 am

Wad point for anyone who sets it up as a UKC ticklist: www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/sets.html

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1220