[shark]

11.5-6

M. Grand Wall ! For those unfamiliar this is a historic classic route up the middle of the Chief which dominates Squamish with 8 pitches graded up to 5.11a and some short sections of A0. We had backed off this the previous thursday due to congestion and then it had rained on and off for the next 3 days so went sport climbing instead. As we were unsure whether it would be dry or free we started late and had a look from the car park and it looked ok. By the time we had got to the start there was a Japanese team of 3 with an alpine bias who were slow but not excessively so. Toby has done the route 5 times already so I got to lead all the substantial pitches. Because of the team ahead I felt unrushed and could enjoy the experience more. Tommy had a smile all the way up which made the ascent doubly enjoyable. I hadnt realised how much I missed doing this sort of climbing.
T. Eve. Tom, Ben, Toby and I met up with Andy R for the first time  at the Grand Wall boulders. My expectations of the quality of the bouldering were low based on comments but we had a good session where I managed to do an obscure V5 and two classic V4's (Big Stone and Easy in an Easy Chair). Also had tour from Andy R to check out Dreamcatcher and the Singularity.
W. PM Headed out in full sun with just Tommy and Poppy to the nearest cliff Burgers ad Fries which is almost immediately below Toby's house. Tommy led Wise Crack 5.7 which was straightforward and we both TR'ed then Tommy led Burgers and Fries, a  sanbag 5.7 featuring a runout on the top slab which Tommy despatched coolly. Then drove to meet keen boulderer Chris at North Walls, Farm sector. Weather was warm and humid. Got work on the classic overhanging wall/prow of Chicken Lips and Assholes variously graded V6 and V7. This featured a committing move off a  sloper which was greasy in the conditions. I got slightly higher each go and surprised myself by going for it and topping out    Tommy and I did Space Monkey V5 a classic short prow with a low start. Had a go at a V8 variation with some unlikely beta from Chris but we were starting to get bitten by mosquitoes and a gang had turned up
T. Family day trip to Vancouver
F. Morning session ticking some classic trad in the Smoke Bluffs: Popeye and the Raven 5.10d, Yorkshire Gripper 5.11b and Clandestine Affair Direct 5.10d. Eve. Another warm evening bouldering session wih just Ben and Tom. Scrambled up to Heartbreak Hotel. Did the classic V2 Heartbreak Hotel then we spent a while on Trad Killer V4 which has a frustrating sitter start. Eventually we broke out the kneepad to make use of a cheeky knee scum and all topped it in rapid succession. I then went and had a look at Worm World Roof V9 which had piqued my interest. Had several goes and felt busted after. Checking videos later I was starting too high and had feet in wrong place.     
S. Family day trip to Whistler / Pemberton. Hot. Snuck in a couple of hours at the Pemberton boulders early eve. Got hot and bothered failing to find the easer Slug boulder. Managed the classic In Your Face V3 but failed on Into the Light V5
S. 

Great week. Baking though. Now a convert to Squamish bouldering. Going rafting shortly and then Freeway, hopefully, tomorrow...

[shurt]

Sounds like a great trip Shark...

STG: get back to sport fitness achieved a month or so ago
LTG: more 7b's and beyond, some bouldering in the v6/7 range would be great too.

m. nuddin
t. worked all day, then decided to do a rare wall trip and met a couple of friends. really surprised myself and climbed really well. flashed loads of one of the harder circuits at TCA (up to font 6c). Pint after, felt good.
w. nowt
t. nada
f. neit
s. on my knees all day painting lines and numbers on a huge car park
s. see saturday

Went to the wall in an effort to guarantee some training as not much seems to be happening at home for a variety of reasons. Maybe what I've been needing is rest of late as I climbed really well. Hoping to get back on the fingerboard this coming week.

[nai]

Good stuff, Shark, hoping to do Grand Wall in the next few years

M-F holiday laziness and lardiness
S travel
S 4x10 mins Aero. Did surprisingly well

Net weight gain for 2 weeks of the usual French indulgences with no exercise only 1.4kg, bit of result.
Finger still a bit iffy, looking like I might have to concentrate on the trad and onsighting for the foreseeable. Free weekend coming up, psyched for some Welsh trad or getting to the Diamond.

[Dolly]

Much jealousy Shark - but glad you're having a good trip


Worked late every night apart from Friday (see below) but not as late as last week. Still a massive fucking pain the arse and I'm tired and stressed. Managed to do something as an antidote every day.


M Foundry lunchtime. Gym core late evening
T Foundry on the Beastmaker bawls. Brutal but fun. Much more entertaining than a campus session if you only have 30 minutes. I was battered after each rep but sort of couldnt wait to get back on
W Gym core late evening
T Beastmaker 25 min sess at lunchtime. Credit to those of you that do this more than once in a blue moon. I find it dull as fuck
F My birthday. I was/am 51. Gym core and a bit of Bulgarian bag in the morning before work. I just cant resist the smell and feel of the leather around me. I had fish (plus salad and no chips obvs) from Hick Street chippy (look it up) for lunch. A bottle of beer at 5 then champers, white bread crisps, cake and all that shit later and thoroughly enjoyed myself.
S. Family stuff then a short run around Lady Cannings and up to the Ox Stones in the evening which was great
S. Too tired to climb. Did some Bulgarian bag and Kettlebells up the garden in the evening

[T_B]

Nice one Shark. If you have time, Sunblessed is worth the walk around the back.

85.9Kg

M - School lunch. Working sections of Pink 8a+ (8b+?). Some good links, but still a couple of moves not done.
T - F/Board p.m. the usual inc 2 x 6 x 7 half crimped. No weight.
W -
T - Crag x. V frustrating session, decent conditions. Did first 2 moves of The Pinch about half a dozen times, falling on 3rd move. Then worked out a different sequence off the ladder for 3rd move and final easier moves but too tired to link from the start and split thumb again.
F - Went in Foundry with aim to do circuits, but lights out above the board so too grim and dark. Went to the School instead. Did 2 x 7c+ circuits.
S -
S - Nipped out for a couple of hour to the Tor. No-one there. Very hot. Failed to do Kristian's got stamina. Traversed from base of Sardine into Weedkiller Trav a few times. Picked up litter. Sweated.

Yet another 'money in the bank' or 'nothing ticked' week, depending on whether your glass is half empty or full 

[36chambers]

STG: more 7B/7Cs
MTG: 8A (zoo york/exorcist) hopefully this winter
LTG: 8B

M: foot on fingerboarding in an almost horizontal position. (1 min on 1 min off) x 8, or more? My set up involves a beastmaker as well as a lower rung and two large pinch blocks to the sides. So I made up a few hand shuffling sequences/problems, surprisingly fun. Pumped silly.
T:
W: Lunch run. Almscliff evening, on my bill. Started drizzling before I even pulled on, ticked South Cave Trav Eliminate 7B straight away. Wandered up to Jess's Roof 7C, but couldn't commit to the crux with two pads as the landing's quite sketchy. Felt steady otherwise, back to the car within an hour.
T: Almscliff evening, with team. Ticked Underhand Extension 7C, had an epic with the 7B+ version last year, so happy to get the extension first go.
F: Intense back massage on the foam roller/various objects I could find around the house. Left me with some questionable marks.
S: Almscliff, via Brimham, via Simon's Seat. Spent the day dodging the rain. Pulled onto Chiasmata 8A, didn't get anywhere but was fun nonetheless.
S: Anston, had a play on Bullet 7C, by the time I figured out some good beta I was all out of beans.     

Not much in the way of training, but a good week despite impending transfer report deadlines.

[tomtom]

Not as active a week as last - largely due to work/life stuff...

M: Weather was crap - so lunchtime session at Logport wall. Quite enjoyed it..

T: Work

W: Out to Begninners wall - didnt really know where I wanted to go, but its reasonably easy to get to and didnt fancy any company so there seemed about right. Had a play on Neils wall (felt nails to me, can only just pull on) and a couple of easier things to the left that kept me amused for a couple of hours... got some pyshce back which was good...

T: Beastmaker. Dolly - I find listenting to the cricket ideal for beastmaker sessions... and doing some emails etc.. at the same time (well in the 2 min breaks between sets etc..)

Fr: Widdop. A chance with the summer conditions - but it was surprisingly good. Did some easier things - then got stuck into Fight on the Black.. grrr.. frustrating - that RH pocket that felt bomber last year felt sooo rubbish on friday... stuttered up to slapping the break a few times, but it wasn't flowing much. Had some fun working the 7A crimpy thing to the left of splashdown with a fella called Adam (Hello!) - a huge sandbag at 7A that one - unless you french jump the start then its probably about 7A But made really good progress on it for me thanks to microbeta (Adam) - just need to slap that first move with conviction...

Sa: Friends over with family later on - so spent morning cleaning the house etc...

Su: Stuff with friends and their kids in the AM - snuck off to Helsby for a cheeky hour in the evening. Nice little session...


Overall a bit annoyed that I've not managed to fit in my climb - BM - climb - BM cycle this week (Grr..) and had what felt like a persistent low level hangover from thurs through to sunday (despite not drinking). However, it feels like the BM sessions are improving my use of the crimp on problems - feel alot stronger/more confident on holds I've not done in the past... see what happens.. quiet week climbing wise coming up as off to No(r)folking climbing for a few days....

[andy_e]

STG: Get some fitness back
MTG: Use some fitness
LTG: Get some strength

M: "Rest" in work late getting stuff done.
T: Indoors. Lacklustre session where I wasn't really feeling it. Did some easy problems, didn't do some harder ones. Psyche ebbed low so I wasn't really putting any effort in.
W: I meant to do some push-ups/elbow strengthening but I didn't.
T: Indoors, mainly on the beastmaker board. Felt better today, did the two warm-up problems retro-flash then got into some harder ones. Struggling to hold even the good holds once I get to the top due to a combination of slippery holds, heat and weakness. At least I did some more problems... Ran around warming down on some more oranges and finish off a kids comp problem that I failed on on Tuesday. Obviously, the kids who compete in these competitions must be seven feet tall, otherwise they wouldn't set such reachy problems, right? Finished off with stretches and push-ups.
F: Meant to go for a run but had to finalise a report to send out, which I did at 6pm, then went for a beer.
S: Rothley. Got an absolute spanking. Warmed up OK, did the classic aretes and bits around there, and the pocket wall problems (including the world's easiest 7A) then tried Disclaimer. Couldn't figure out how to pull on. Went across the hill and did Long Reach (good climb) then failed miserably on AB's Problem. Couldn't do the move to the dish around the arete, nor could I do the move off the dish either... Strange climb. Went home.
S: Ingleby Incline. Tip: Walk all the way up the incline, then back along the tracks to reach the problems, do not take the vertical bracken slope up the path by the stream described in the guidebook. Finally reached some climbs, failed on a 7A+ which was neither my style nor a good warm up. Did Big Paw 7A which was nice. Fought our way through the new trees to the Mushroom boulder, where it was very hot, still and infested with flies. Topping out was very greasy and difficult, so neither of us topped anything out. Moved down to Mono Wall, which I did after a few commitment issues. Good climb, only mildly terrifying. Escaped through more bracken, brambles, nettles and pine, then went home to bathe the midge bites, nettles stings, bramble and pine scratches and grit rash I'd picked up during the course of the day. Long, hot and tiring and I only climbed two climbs!

A bit of a disappointing week but it's the middle of summer so about as good as can be expected. Just going climbing at all is at least getting out and doing something, so better than nothing.

[JackAus]

STG: V8. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

So after I ticked that V8 last week, it got downgraded. I thought it felt pretty easy but still.... Back to the V8 drawing board...

M: Rest. Small core session at home.
T: St Leonards. Shit short session. Felt rubbish.
W: St Leonards. Didn't feel much better. Climbed a bunch. Solid fingerboard after. Usual routine but moving to much worse holds now which is good!
T: St Leonards. A decent climb. Made a few burly problems up. Tough. Fingerboard followed by a lot of shoulder physio. Stupid rotator cuff....
F: Rest. Small core session at home.
S: Comp at Villawood. I wasn't competing just there supporting a friend (which she came 2nd in Female Open A! Far and away her best result ever! So proud!) but did a bunch of the problems after comp finished.
S: Jessica's and Frontline.
Jessica's: Small area, maybe 15-20 problems total. Couple of hard hard classics here being Liquid Dreams V11, J2 V12, J1 V13 and A1 V14. J2 is a maybe goal. Awesome climb. But I digress, warmed up by flashing a V3, V4 and V5. Then got onto a crimpy V7, Great Expectations. Took maybe 5/6 attempts. Not too hard, awkward start position on some small but positive crimps. Then tried Mid Wife Crisis V8. Desperate first 2 moves then piss after. Don't feel close on either move... Pulled on to J2 a couple times but didn't try any moves.
Frontline: Wanted to try Rocket Man V10, mate was trying Mann Killer V8 right next to it so jumped on. Nearly did Mann Killer but its crimps were cutting my fingertips. Rocket Man, I'd only ever attempted the first move (big!) at the end of big sessions. Took a couple goes but first move went down quicker and easier than I'd expected. 2nd move is crux, going for the slot. Don't feel too far off this. It is a very very soft V10 going on V8 but it is a classic put up by big Fred himself, so would be a great climb to do.

Piccies:

Great Expectations




Rocket Man. Starts where my right heel is.

[tomtom]

Hey - if you ticked it before it was downgraded - take the V8

[iain]

JackAus, must be great having your own personal photographer, always makes things/you look good 


STG: Get big day fit for Dolomites, and lose a little weight. 67kg this morning, that's a bit too much even for training heavy. 5 weeks to go.

Last 2 holiday weeks, most relaxing holiday we've had for years, much eating/drinking with a few decent walks to start getting the legs into shape.

Goal this week, 3 runs, climbing/training Mon-Wed to get things moving again, weather permitting heading to Gogarth/N.Wales for a long weekend (be welcome to join us Nai)

[Nibile]

Good week despite everything, managed to train quite heavy around my injured shoulder, that is getting better, luckily.
It will be long time before it's healed though.

LTG - board problems.

Mon - shoulder rehab.
Tue - shoulder rehab; ab rolls, weights complex x2.
Wed - rest.
Thu - shoulder rehab; bouldering (1 problem), barbell weights complex x2.
Fri - shoulder rehab; ab rolls and dumbbells weights complex x2.
Sat - shoulder rehab.
Sun - shoulder rehab; barbell walk, abs, dumbbells weights complex x2.

I have tweaked the ab rolls in order not to aggravate my shoulder injury. I found out that slightly bending the arms and pointing elbows out disengage alot of the shoulder and engage alot of the lats. Result: proper beasting and DOMS that seemed to rip my ribs off my back. Brilliant.
I have also tweaked the weights complexes; the new formula is (in various order): bentover rows, lateral raises, bicep curls, front squat, military press, good mornings. Little differences between barbell and dumbbells. I alternate normal reps, dead stop reps and stretch reps between the various session according to how I feel.
I also bought more weights for the loaded carries.
The only bouldering problem I set and climbed during the week is probably 5a, but with 29 degrees and 60% humidity it's been a really good mental battle because it was super cruxy.

Good form, I feel solid.

[petejh]

STG: The Brute (by 6th Sept); Diamond new route proj; Detritus Wall trad proj; G.Orme trad proj.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.5 years)
Ultimate goal: undecided

End of Power phase, started PE and routeing.

M. Massage. Campus sesh 3. Thought I'd nail 1-4-7 on smalls but didn't, touching 7 each time x 4. Good on double dyno's 1-3-5-7 three times on smalls. Then down-ups 3-2-3-2-3 twice on smalls.
T.
W. D******, couldn't operate due to not getting proper sleep because of noise. Didn't climb, just dozed on a rock in between belaying.
T. Campus sesh 4. So close to 1-4-7, touched top of rung but didn't hold. No cigar. Tired quickly. End of power phase.
F. Mobility sesh. Didn't sleep properly.
S. D******. Reacquainted with moves on proj. 3 training burns to around halfway up the upper wall - around 7b+/c. Remembered how amazing this route is going to be - national classic isn't exaggerating. Did partner's new route after him (soft 7b+?). Didn't sleep properly.
S. Beacon. PE sesh on routes. 4 easy warm-ups; then 5 x 3 minute laps on a route, with 6 mins rest - failed on last two laps; cool-down. Good first PE sesh.

Finally gave in to the noise and slept downstairs in living room Sunday night. Woke up this morning after uninterrupted sleep for the first time in weeks, probably months; felt like a different person. Proj should go down quickly once I get fitness this week.

[rodma]

Mon: Still ill
Tues: don't risk training due to dehydration
wed:wall session. pitifully weak
Thurs: easy fingerboarding, again due to weakness
fri: Rest
Sat: Shaftoe: open my account on Bloodsport. feels semi-doable even though I'm super spanned. doable that is, if i get stronger, lighter and have a bit of a tailwind. if i don't manage it, that'll also be fine, since training for it will make me stronger.
sun: weather a bit sog, so take it easy and then drive home

[JackAus]

Hey - if you ticked it before it was downgraded - take the V8

Not for my first of the grade. Would like it to be a solid 8.

JackAus, must be great having your own personal photographer, always makes things/you look good 

Haha... All my photos (bar only the top one above) are screengrabs from my go pro, thats it... :D

[cheque]

STG- 7a+ or (ideally) 7b on lime before September 18th.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

LTG- 10a

M- Rest

Tu- Notts Depot. Did my standard indoor climbing routine- ~15 minutes easy bouldering warm up, ~1 hour 15 minutes working 7aish circuit on circuit board, doing it in two overlapping sections but running out of juice then ~30 minutes of bouldering below my limit as I've no power left from the circuit board. Whether this makes me any better at climbing I don't know but it never fails to make me sore and knackered the next day.

W- Rest. Sore and knackered.

Th- Failed to find up a partner but felt so tired after work that I couldn't face even an hour at Pleasley. Did a few pullups.

F- Rest.

Sa- Cheedale Cornice. Put the clips in Clarion Call feeling confident but fell off next to the last bolt. As I lowered off I gave the move I fell off another try, found a much easier way to do it and also worked out exactly what I do with my feet on succesful attempts at the section before. Cruised the route next go  good beta makes such a difference! Gave Martial Music two burns on toprope afterwards- did all the moves and it doesn't feel too bad at all.

Su- Sore calves and forearms. Walk around Clumber Park.

Pleased to do Clarion Call- this is the hardest 7a I've done and I've got a lot of good experience out of climbing it.

[fried]

M - Th - Nothing except some shoulder flexibility exercises with my length of bamboo. Too much work.

Fr - A client unexpextedly cancelled leaving me with a day off, I was in the car 10 minutes after I got her email. I hadn't had time to get psyched for anything, so I went to Bois Rond to have another look at Meilleur des mondes http://bleau.info/rond/1796.html. Had a quick warm, then a few goes, but I need to figure out a way of getting my right hand a bit higher up the crack system, as I'm too tall and inflexible to get the toe-hook in otherwise.

Far too hot for this sort of thing, so I did some blues, including a couple of ones I've struggled on before.

Sa - Painting the mother-in-law's apartment

Su - Went to Rocher Guichot to escape the heat, suprisingly cool when I arrived, didn't last long though, it was in the high 20s before long. Had a frustrating time failing on blue circuit problems which all seemed to consist of 2 razor sharp crimps and no footholds....gave up after a while and did most of the orange circuit. Roll on the autumn.

[Sasquatch]

Very bad week(except Sunday), felt very off myself and not good about life sitution. Very excited for school to start and child to go back to school.  I'm fairly sure I have a shoulder impingement as well, and have for about a month.  That means starting shoulder rehab, and laying off the heavy/hard stuff for the next month or so. 

M-nothing
T-nothing
W-nothing, should rehab
Th-shoulder rehab, 60 Ankles to bar
F-yoga at lunch, son's 19th birthday.
S-80 Ankles to Bar, brothers 40th b-day.
S-Morning yardwork, then biked to gym with my wife, climbed routes there, then biked home.  Then headed out to paddleboard surf the bore tide.  I've had a group of friends doing this for some time now, and had always been intrigued.  It ended up being both incredible and exhausting, and I hurt myself...  We ended up covering 12 miles on paddle boards, some surfing, alot of paddling.  My friedn who took me has ridden the wave for a full 8 miles before, but the wave was a bit funky yesterday.
Here are a few links:
http://www.alaska.org/advice/alaska-bore-tide
http://www.theatlantic.com/photo/2014/08/surfing-alaskas-bore-tide/100787/
 and there are some pretty cool videos around on the web

[tomtom]

Cool links Sasq.

[Sasquatch]

Shark - Glad to hear you liked the bouldering.  I always found it quite good.

Jack - Good on you for wanting a solid tick, but the real trick is what you can consistantly climb   I've got a friend who won't say he's a v6 climber until he's done ALL of the local v6's, but he's done a few v10's...  Also, don't knock the grades too much.  You're pretty strong on big moves, and it sounds like you've been dropping weight.  It can be surprising how much of a difference a few pounds can make.

[Sasquatch]

Cool links Sasq.

Thanks!  It felt good to finally go do it.  I've heard loads of stories about how scary it is and whatnot.  The only scary part is that there's only one wave, so if you miss it or fall off, you're sport of screwed.  I rode on my belly for about a 1/2 mile just to get a feel for the wave, then my knees for another milish, then finally stood up later.  I wish I'd have stood up sooner, I was fine on it, and would have been standing on a much better part of the wave. 

[T_B]

Cool links Sasq.

Thanks!  It felt good to finally go do it.  I've heard loads of stories about how scary it is and whatnot.  The only scary part is that there's only one wave, so if you miss it or fall off, you're sport of screwed.  I rode on my belly for about a 1/2 mile just to get a feel for the wave, then my knees for another milish, then finally stood up later.  I wish I'd have stood up sooner, I was fine on it, and would have been standing on a much better part of the wave.

That looks frickin mega! I can imagine it being quite a stress though wondering if you're going to drop off the back of the wave and wave goodbye to your mates 

[the_dom]

Not the worst week, but more a case of "money in the bank" as per T_B..

Mon: Weights at lunch (deadlifts and benchpresses), tired bouldering and hangboarding in the evening.
Tues: Rest
Wed: Bouldering and hangboarding in the evening.
Thurs: Weights at lunch (deadlifts and benchpresses), hangboarding in the evening.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Bouldering (outdoors) - fell off a 7C a lot. Grrr. A short hangboard in the evening.
Sun: Bouldering (outdoors) - ticked a 7B+ despite it being quite warm. Weights (deadlifts and benchpresses, surprise surprise) and a short hangboard afterwards. Heavy day.

I'm coming to the end of my deadlifting cycle, so it will be interesting to see what the results are like - at the moment, I'm pretty tired most of the time..

[JackAus]

Jack - Good on you for wanting a solid tick, but the real trick is what you can consistantly climb   I've got a friend who won't say he's a v6 climber until he's done ALL of the local v6's, but he's done a few v10's...  Also, don't knock the grades too much.  You're pretty strong on big moves, and it sounds like you've been dropping weight.  It can be surprising how much of a difference a few pounds can make.

Agreed, I definitely don't consider myself a V7 climber! Far far less...
15kg over 5ish months, yeah! I do still prefer grades to be on the more fairer (stiffer) side though, I like to actually earn a grade rather than just easily getting it because its soft.

But yes, I am climbing well at the moment, feeling strongish and lightish, so all adds up. Just want something harder! haha

[Three Nine]

How have you been dropping weight? I just seem to get fatter and fatter