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The Love of Money Start, Beginners Wall, Blackwell (Read 2731 times)

tomtom

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Anyone got any beta for this? It feels like a puzzle that I'm trying to solve in the wrong way! Assuming its match hands on the arete crimps/holds then lay one on for the higher left slopers?

dave

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I got beta but would probably have to have the problem in front of me to remember properly.

But, I think the best way is to go over big with rh to the obvious bit on the edge of the groove/arête, match next to it, then with a high right foot and low left you bob up for the next holds. When you get it sussed it's ok.

highrepute

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I had 3 sessions on this and didn't do it. Even got a rope on it to feel the holds. Quite a bit shorter than you and Dave tho. Also a while ago but from what I remember my beta was like Dave's. High right foot was key I remember. Matching was causing me problems.

r-man

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    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
Hmm. Remember this being a bit of an is-that-it? problem. Bit fiddly up the groove, then its done? Sorry, that's my beta!

tomtom

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Thanks All - Dave your beta makes sense _ thiugh I managed to get matched by going up with my left to the shutter part of that edge/arête - then using a cunning right heel toe cam to keep myself on when matching with the right. But this leaves my rh on top of the gold instead of having it as a sidepull (with thumb over the top)- which is needed to make the last move slap up.

High repute. It doesn't feel reachy more odd and very sequency..

Anyway it kept me occupied for 90 min :). Cheers all.

cofe

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High right foot out right and roll up arête with right hand, slap up with left.

tomtom

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That makes the 'roll' sound so easy cofe (rubs shoulders and stiff sides). :)

While we're on BW beta - what's the score with the 7A on the far lh side. The end is easy to see - but start/middle looked either wack or u feasibly hard for the grade (from what I could see)...

 

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