[nik at work]

Nice pics/vids grooves.

STG: trad/sport projects
MTG: 8c, 8A
LTG: 9a
BHAG: Bruderliebe

M - outside trying trad project, pull the best hold off the lower crux wall, fucksticks. It' snow gone from super hard to crazy hard via the envisioned line. Pooh.
T - BM session +20kg. Good session.
W - BM session +20kg. Another good session.
T - get out late (6:30) but manage an epic session on the training traverse wall. Do the standard short traverse (7b/+) six times to warm up. Then repeat the (no longer a) project eliminate traverse (8b+??) first time, boom! Then work a new harder finish, and another super hard finish. Manage both of them in isolation but linking in to the traverse start will be desperate. The. To warm down (wtf??) I do the full long traverse (7b+/c?) ten times. Very much battered after this.
F - nothing
S - back to the trad project, first look at a rightwards variation to get past the missing hold, it' short of possible but uber hard. Then Doug suggests a leftward variation, which after a bit of playing seems to provide a more viable line. Got a couple of moves still to do and it's still going to be hard but style is back. On the positive the top half of the route feels like it's coming together and has been linked in a oner.
S - average BM session.

A week of highs and lows, was very pissed off at the hold loss but performance at the training traverse wall and subsequent project line modification means ending on a positive note (discounting Sunday's BM session...)

[Sasquatch]

Am I the only one who's mind instantly thinks "bowel movement" when they see BM, and can't help but laugh at the:

   BM session +20KG, Good Session...

That's a hell of a BM...

[the_dom]

I've had the lurgy all week and didn't have a great one, but still managed to sneak in a bit of training - I probably needed a relatively mellow week anyway.

Mon: A decent hangboard session - one arm work, repeaters and core stuff.
Tues: A very short hangboard session - trying out the Bechtel protocol that someone mentioned on here in place of repeaters. Seems like a solid tool.
Wed: Nothing. Sick. Bleurgh.
Thurs: Feeling slightly better after a day in bed. Short hangboard - one arms, Bechtel hangs and a little bit of core.
Fri: Feeling a bit better - weights over lunch. DL: 1 x 3 x 110kgs, 4 x 3 x 130kgs. BP: 5 x 3 x 70kgs.
Sat: Hangboard - one arms, Bechtel hangs and core. Decent session.
Sun: Nothing. Sick. Bleurgh.

[Muenchener]

STG: redpoint 7a #3: did 6c+ #5
     weight below 80kg: currently about 81
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine
            Muscle Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer),  Marmolada south face (Vinatzer Messner)

Weight down by about a kilo. I fear this has more to do with heat and resulting lack of appetite than any iron self discipline on my part.

M: hot
T: hotter. Mobility/knee physio/core, Beastmaker max hangs
W: Knee / mobility. My knee is painful at the moment. I haven't been doing my exercises as diligently as I could, but I'm pretty sure the heat and associated extreme humidity also play a role.
T:
F: Evening walk up to hut, Dachstein
S - S: Beat The Heat high altitude sport climbing, Dachstein. A recently developed and not much frequented area, very scenic and cool feeling of doing early repeats. But the sharpest rock I've ever experienced.
One can live in a foreign country for 15 years, be completely functionally functionally fluent in the language on a day to day basis, yet still have significant gaps in one's vocabulary. For example, the realisation that the route name "Reibeisen" means "cheese grater" dawned on me on Saturday too slowly to save my fingertips.
On the minus side: pretty meagre actual routes ticked. On the plus side I seem to be getting into the habit of going for it and falling on redpoint attempts rather than lamely calling take. This is more important in the long run if I can keep it up.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board weird session, some things felt steady couldn't touch other things. Managed one problem without my fleeting cutting loose for the first time.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Conies Dale. Warmed up by doing top moves of Conie Montana 6c and doing it from a move lower till I did it. Then worked and did Conie Yeboah, gave up at one point as I felt it wasn't going to go. But gave it another go and managed it. First 7a since turning 60 mind it was first day outside since my birthday. Did a couple of those 6bs that are just massive slaps.
Sun. Board easy mirror session. Bike 65 miles 3hrs 40mins felt really hard due to the wind.
Struggled with motivation this week but things came good.

[tomtom]

Were connies OK in Conies dale?

And - great effort on the 7...

[kelvin]

something (anything) on Kleinwinterhoek in SA.

Good objective!

I think Pete has the best goal at the moment... just sounds amazing.

MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)

[shark]

Roughly the same weight but can only manage one two arm pullup now (3 before). However - I can now do this on the small rung and in the upper mono slots on the BM. Fingers are definitely stronger for trying harder problems elsewhere, as I've been 6/7kg lighter when I've managed this before.
No idea why I'm so useless at pullups, hanging one armed even on a jug is nails (impossible on a scaffold pole), so I guess the two are related and after two years after trying pretty much every method suggested - I'll just have to work around it, as I doubt I'll ever recruit any strength for them.

I'm troubled by this. What methods have you been trying?

[kelvin]

The lowering yourself slowly method, doing 1 every minute for twenty minutes (2 when I could manage two), the most I can do in 5 minutes and then rest 20 min and repeat. Lots of others people have mentioned to me. About 18 months ago and 7kg lighter, I proper focussed on it and could manage generally 3. 4 was not happening. I spent one evening at the wall just warming up for a maximal effort, resting, the lot and after about 90 minutes managed 5. Never got passed 3 again. I'm guessing if I lose the 7kg, then I'll be able to do 3 again. My old man was a pro boxer in the sixties, decent enough to be mentioned in the dailys when he fought - he was awful at them too.


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[Schnell]

The lowering yourself slowly method, doing 1 every minute for twenty minutes (2 when I could manage two), the most I can do in 5 minutes and then rest 20 min and repeat. Lots of others people have mentioned to me. About 18 months ago and 7kg lighter, I proper focussed on it and could manage generally 3. 4 was not happening. I spent one evening at the wall just warming up for a maximal effort, resting, the lot and after about 90 minutes managed 5. Never got passed 3 again. I'm guessing if I lose the 7kg, then I'll be able to do 3 again. My old man was a pro boxer in the sixties, decent enough to be mentioned in the dailys when he fought - he was awful at them too.


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Could be useful, or at least interesting, to try identifying which of the major muscles involved is not up to scratch, biceps or lats or both. I've realised fairly recently that my lats are comparatively weak so I've been doing 'lat shrugs' on the bar.

[cheque]

STG- 7a or (ideally) above on lime before September 18th. Regain some semblance of power.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

LTG- Go to Raven Tor and return without feeling like an absolute punter.

M- Partner bailed  so ended up at Pleasley Vale. Did the long traverse 5 times, almost 6- sick of this now.

Tu- Felt surprisingly fresh and desperate to climb so went to the Notts Depot. Flashed all the "6s" on the circuit board, worked the "7a". Felt pretty solid. Tried bouldering after- nothing left, very sweaty etc.

W- Rest.

Th- Raven Tor. Another planned route session that turned into solo bouldering. Only one other guy there, which was good in a way as I got absolutely shut down on everything- so little power. The only thing I ticked was the 6A on Pinches Wall despite trying all sorts of other things in vain, most of which I'd done before. 

F- Rest. Quite sore elbows and fingers- lots of massage and stretching.

Sa- Walk from Tideswell Dale carpark to Cheedale Cornice and back. Lovely. Very psyched to watch people climbing.

Su- Cheedale Cornice. First time climbing here, first time sport climbing since May last year! Got on Further Adventures in Greendale and found it very hard and the whole concept very alien- proper "Why am I even doing this" feeling. Next go felt completely different- still hard (powerscreams required!) but really enjoyed it. Each successive go felt and climbed better 'til I did it clean, by which time I felt absolutely done so decided against a redpoint- the right choice as  getting up again to strip it was tough and locking off enough to go in direct at the top was a bit of an epic!

Great week, lots of climbing. Sunday was fantastic- I'd really forgotten how much I love sport climbing and, although this week has really underlined how weak I've become, I'm definitely fit enough and  progress was amazingly rapid on the route. I'm confident that I'll redpoint it this week and move onto something harder. 

[iain]

Am I the only one who's mind instantly thinks "bowel movement" when they see BM, and can't help but laugh at the:

   BM session +20KG, Good Session...

That's a hell of a BM...

Looks like it 

Would really help on the redpoint though ...

Anyway, back on topic:

Roughly the same weight but can only manage one two arm pullup now (3 before). However - I can now do this on the small rung and in the upper mono slots on the BM. Fingers are definitely stronger for trying harder problems elsewhere, as I've been 6/7kg lighter when I've managed this before.
No idea why I'm so useless at pullups, hanging one armed even on a jug is nails (impossible on a scaffold pole), so I guess the two are related and after two years after trying pretty much every method suggested - I'll just have to work around it, as I doubt I'll ever recruit any strength for them.

I'm troubled by this. What methods have you been trying?

I'm not going to suggest exercises but the not being able to hang one-armed reminded me of posts (I think by Serpico?) ages ago about shoulder girdle strength and dumbell complexes to help. Tried searching but couldn't find what I was looking for but I seem to remember Shark did them.

[shark]

Re the one armed hang there is some technique shizzle with engaging your shoulder as if starting to do a pullup as well as hanging side on rather than front on. If there are shoulder weaknesses then some dumbell work should help.

My suggestion with pullups is to put a bar on a doorway you use a lot and crank 1 or 2 out everytime you go past. It might be that you have a targetable weakness and there is a golden bullet but it might be a neural co-ordination thing in which case doing it regularly could be the best approach - it certainly won't hurt.

[Wood FT]

Su- Cheedale Cornice. First time climbing here, first time sport climbing since May last year! Got on Further Adventures in Greendale

was right next to you belaying on mandy I think 

[tomtom]

My suggestion with pullups is to put a bar on a doorway you use a lot and crank 1 or 2 out everytime you go past. It might be that you have a targetable weakness and there is a golden bullet but it might be a neural co-ordination thing in which case doing it regularly could be the best approach - it certainly won't hurt.

Watch out for this - as a stoodent I did this and ended up with tendonitis in my elbow...

[shark]

My suggestion with pullups is to put a bar on a doorway you use a lot and crank 1 or 2 out everytime you go past. It might be that you have a targetable weakness and there is a golden bullet but it might be a neural co-ordination thing in which case doing it regularly could be the best approach - it certainly won't hurt.

Watch out for this - as a stoodent I did this and ended up with tendonitis in my elbow...

Lanky lever retribution

[cheque]

Su- Cheedale Cornice. First time climbing here, first time sport climbing since May last year! Got on Further Adventures in Greendale

was right next to you belaying on mandy I think 

Ayup!

[tomtom]

My suggestion with pullups is to put a bar on a doorway you use a lot and crank 1 or 2 out everytime you go past. It might be that you have a targetable weakness and there is a golden bullet but it might be a neural co-ordination thing in which case doing it regularly could be the best approach - it certainly won't hurt.

Watch out for this - as a stoodent I did this and ended up with tendonitis in my elbow...

Lanky lever retribution

What was that stumpy?

[shark]

My suggestion with pullups is to put a bar on a doorway you use a lot and crank 1 or 2 out everytime you go past. It might be that you have a targetable weakness and there is a golden bullet but it might be a neural co-ordination thing in which case doing it regularly could be the best approach - it certainly won't hurt.

Watch out for this - as a stoodent I did this and ended up with tendonitis in my elbow...

Lanky lever retribution

What was that stumpy?

Weak of hearing as well eh

[tomtom]

My suggestion with pullups is to put a bar on a doorway you use a lot and crank 1 or 2 out everytime you go past. It might be that you have a targetable weakness and there is a golden bullet but it might be a neural co-ordination thing in which case doing it regularly could be the best approach - it certainly won't hurt.

Watch out for this - as a stoodent I did this and ended up with tendonitis in my elbow...

Lanky lever retribution

What was that stumpy?

Weak of hearing as well eh

Sorry - couldn't hear you down there..

[kelvin]

Cheers schnell, iain, shark and even tall tall tom. Much appreciated and I do remember the posting about the muscle group that crosses the back, I went away and asked a PT mate about it after. I also have a small crusher rail above the kitchen door, soIi can pop one out from time to time when the hands aren't greasy. Oo er.

.

but it might be a neural co-ordination thing

There's a girl at the wall who is also pretty pathetic at pullups and watching her struggle is tough, as it's like watching myself. She says, like I feel, that she just has no way to tell the muscles to fire - which can't be true, otherwise even one would be impossible. She even went down the route of assisted pullups and could manage 8 with a third off her bodyweight but still struggles to do two on her own. She climbs up to 7a and V4 indoors. A lack of neural pathways is what it feels like 

With the trip coming up in a couple of months, I've put the whole thing on the backburner. At the moment, I really need to work on momentum, dropping my heels and a host of other stuff really but when I'm eventually back, I think a stint in the gym would probably help. I know it would.

[andy popp]

M - board, first session of any kind in two weeks after all the travelling etc. Predictably I seem to have lost a lot
T - board, circuits, very marginally better
W-F - can't remember exactly what but too busy to get anywhere, weather horrible and put off doing stuff in case I can get out.
S - very early morning session at Harmers, my only possible chance to get out. Conditions are just miserable; super humid. Unsurprisingly there is no progress
S - depressed.

Entered a climbing slough of despond at the end of this week. The last month has been great on the life front but climbing has suffered, no progress has occurred and knowing I'm going away again for two weeks next Monday left me feeling there was no point in trying to get much back this week. Motivation definitely sagged badly. However, this Wed its a beautiful morning - sunny but less humid and the rest of the week looks good. I'm still much too busy to really get out properly but I've realised I can get out locally this evening and hopefully, if I'm canny squeeze in another two early morning sessions before going on holiday.

[SA Chris]

Having to go on holiday must really suck. All I have to do is sit in an office all day and not climb.

[Nibile]

Taking a break from usual climbing related training can help loads.
I suggest moving big plates of iron.

[SA Chris]

I suggest moving eating big plates of iron food.