[shark]

11.5-6

M. Tor. Met Nick C there at 8am. Fresh and cool. Go 1 Jugged to hole then did top in 3 sections. Go 2 Jugged to hole then a good link to clipping the tricky bolt and think was on for high point but got an attack of fumble-fingers. Had another go from hole but was tired. Go 3 dogged up Push Up then rest of the route. Tried to work out whether there was an alternative way to do last move (yet again) but there wasn't. Overall smoother on it but no new high point.
T. Eve. Good scores on crimps but ran out of time for doing drags Getting there
W.gT. AM. Tor. Met Mark R there. Nice cool weather. Dithered about whether to boulder or not. Push Up start was dry. Decided to tie on. Dogged up Prow P1 Did hard move on headwall but didn't get to hard clip. Came down . Go 2 jugged to hole and climbed from hole to touching but not holding 2 finger pocket in break. Progress at last. Came down. Go 3 started from bottom but fell off Push Up crux then bolt to bolted whole route.
F. Eve. Various labouring in day then a fingerboard session interupted with row with Sonia. Matched all time PB. Note to self - engineer an argument to get in the zone. Drive to Devon
S.
S. Tortuous drive back from Devon

Things going well. Tor tomorrow. Canada Saturday 

[Sasquatch]

M-rest
T-Short Lunch Campus Session.  Not a bad session considering how worked I still felt from Sunday.
W-Roller Skating -1hr
T-Development Day up at Reed Lakes.  Weather looked marginal, but as i had the day free and was planning on going, i decided to risk it.  Well worth it as it was actually good connies.  Cleaned and climbed 5 new lines up to v10, cleaned and prepped 3 more, and partially cleaned another 3 lines.  The area now has 15 established, another 8-9 cleaned and ready, and prob 50 yet to clean, including 3-4 really proud projects, and an unknown number of hard projects.  So far almost everything we've done has turned out to be harder than we've guessed.   Loving it!


This is one of the newly cleaned lines that I didn't finish.  Played on it a bit and it's quite hard to sort out what to do. 
F-45min Mtn Bike, followed by friends B-day - 
S-Plan was to head back to the Reed Lakes area and do more development, but it was raining up there so we decided to head to the Byron Glacier Area.  Climbed 20 problems total, 15 of which were new to me.  Mostly in the v5-6 range.  Did 5 new problems and also worked two projects that are likely in the v11 and v13 ranges. 

One of the new lines - a nice crimpy v6.
S-Rest and work

[kelvin]

Cheers Shark - and nice pics Sas  Also thanks to everyone who chipped in with advice regarding hayfever last week (and apologies to those who had to read it, probably worth a thread of it's own next time), took it all on board, changed drug of choice and whilst the symptoms are worse - I feel a lot better. Will get in the Docs this week to blag an inhaler. Ta a lot.

STG - Salbit Sudgrat. Also a big mountaineering weekend on Aug bank hols. Start at Amphitheatre Buttress, some routes on Tryfan, Tennis Shoe and Cneiffen Arete before (the next day) starting in the Pass and finishing at the top of Snowdon via the face of Lliwedd. Mostly soloing but carrying a rope for certain pitches and certain climbs.
MTG - Tick some stuff in Spain
LTG - Salbit West Ridge and something (anything) on Kleinwinterhoek in SA.

Mon - Worked late.
Tue - Run. Warmup, then 2 miles. Felt like proper running for the first time in ages, had no watch but felt good.
Wed - Pinnacle. Circuit board working moves. Some hangs. Run - warmup, then 8x100m hill sprints, walking back down.
Thu - Rest
Fri - Pinnacle. Boulder warmup. Circuit board working moves. Tried to 1-5 with a foot on, on the smallest Metolious rung. I could do this before but they've rejigged everything and rung 5 is at maximum stretch for me from the foothold and I can only just about hit the top. Frustrating but enjoyable.
Sat & Sun my parents have visited, so been catching up with family and overeating.

Should have tried to get a run in this weekend but two other sessions felt great despite all the old niggles saying hello.

Two sessions at Pinnacle, not really been there since I cancelled my subscription back in May. Roughly the same weight but can only manage one two arm pullup now (3 before). However - I can now do this on the small rung and in the upper mono slots on the BM. Fingers are definitely stronger for trying harder problems elsewhere, as I've been 6/7kg lighter when I've managed this before.
No idea why I'm so useless at pullups, hanging one armed even on a jug is nails (impossible on a scaffold pole), so I guess the two are related and after two years after trying pretty much every method suggested - I'll just have to work around it, as I doubt I'll ever recruit any strength for them. Otherwise, a good couple of visits, still can't get on with the in vogue morpho setting with my non bendable wrist but I knew that anyway - the 20deg circuit/system board thing is great for me as I can stay front on just about, just like Malcolm says.

A

[T_B]

85.6Kg

M - School lunch. 30 degree. Finished with some campussing, nearly doing 1-5-8 on right.
T - Rubicon. Had tried Zeke last year on a freezing day in March and got totally shut down. Decided it was worth a second look. This time did all but one of the moves. Hard style for me, but doesn't feel impossible.
W -
T - School lunch. 15 x 1 min on, 30 secs rest. 10 mins rest then 10 x 1 min on, 30 secs rest. Felt like I over-cooked it slightly (had hoped to do 2 x sets of 15, but think I'll try 3 x sets of 10 with 5 mins rest between sets next time).
F - Right elbow hurt (this has been coming on for a while now)
S - P.M. Badger Cove. Smeggy cons. No progress really, but got some micro beta options from using a ladder (thanks Ben and Dan) and got close to last move off a ladder. Had one really decent go from the ground and a couple of not great goes half-heartedly slapping the top pocket. Need better cons and something else (finger strength?) for that top move.
S -

Had planned an AeroCap session on Friday but sacked it off due to elbow. Been therabanding and it seems to have settled down. Like others I'm finding foot-on campussing pretty hard on the elbows.

Felt like a bit of a trad climbing bumbly on Saturday turning up at Badger Cove with no brush stick and having been trying the problem ground up i.e. not having a ladder. Good to see the pros at work. On something at my limit like this it's now obvious I would really benefit from being able to work the top move off a ladder.

Oh, also got some of that Frictionlabs chalk. It seems to stay on the skin for longer and on fingerboard at home felt good, but felt a bit 'clarty' in smeggy conditions? Probably need to use it on more rock types and in different conditions, but think I prefer the Moon stuff.

[andy_e]

T-Development Day up at Reed Lakes.  Weather looked marginal, but as i had the day free and was planning on going, i decided to risk it.  Well worth it as it was actually good connies.  Cleaned and climbed 5 new lines up to v10, cleaned and prepped 3 more, and partially cleaned another 3 lines.  The area now has 15 established, another 8-9 cleaned and ready, and prob 50 yet to clean, including 3-4 really proud projects, and an unknown number of hard projects.  So far almost everything we've done has turned out to be harder than we've guessed.   Loving it!

Any jobs going in Alaska at the moment? 

[Sasquatch]

T-Development Day up at Reed Lakes.  Weather looked marginal, but as i had the day free and was planning on going, i decided to risk it.  Well worth it as it was actually good connies.  Cleaned and climbed 5 new lines up to v10, cleaned and prepped 3 more, and partially cleaned another 3 lines.  The area now has 15 established, another 8-9 cleaned and ready, and prob 50 yet to clean, including 3-4 really proud projects, and an unknown number of hard projects.  So far almost everything we've done has turned out to be harder than we've guessed.   Loving it!

Any jobs going in Alaska at the moment? 

Always are  

Seriously though, the economy here is so oil based, everyone will be on edge until prices go back up a bit. 

Thankfully i've got nothing to do with oil jobs.

I'll try to get more pics so there's a bit more perspective on the potential, but currently the only limit to development is enough time and good enough weather to go do it.  If you check out the AKClimber facebook page, there are more pics.  We're currently at around 100 new problems developed this year, and it's still early season.  I'm at 25 new problems in 4-5 days of work, with two of those being severely cut short by weather, and I expect to more than double that by the end of the season. 

[nai]

STG - holiday, have a finger healthy enough to train on come 2/8/15
MTG - Autumn crushage
LTG Forearms, Forearms, Forearms


M - Mini works 3x20 mins Aero.

T - Stoney Trad, rained off after warmups but one of those was Pygmies Walk Tall, a surprisingly good steep E1 I'd not done before.

w - first run for 9 months to test back, slow 5km pootle

Th -  few twinges from back but could climb Ok, managed Big Zipper by the skin of my teeth.

F- Partner bailed. with a hangover. Livid.

4x5mins Aero (?) on steep garage board, exceeded expecations. 1x10mins on Campus board

s- nowt

S - 4x5 mins steep board, poor compared to previous attempt, 1x10 mins campus board

Good week of volume, finger getting there, optimistic it'll be ok for August.  Realised I need to get much much fitter for routes, shouldn't be redpointing 7a+s no matter how undergraded they are, came very close to contacting Tom Randall this week.

[tomtom]

Nice pics Sasq - and great motivational technique there Shark. If that worked for me I'd be climbing 8C by now

M: Beastmaker. Doing easy things, working on posture and technique. Warm up with 3x6 sets of largejugs, 3x6 alternating between small crimp and large crimp, 3x6 small crimp/large crimp.

T: Blackwell, Beginners Wall. Wasnt sure where would be dry - and having only been once figured it was worth a shout. Ended up having a great session there.. Felt really really good despite having a beastmakerage session the day before. Had a good session working 'Swing time' with a bloke (Tony - hello) who arrived about the same time as me. Just snatched an ascent - nice moves, with the start (dropping into sharing the rail) being the hardest part. Tony left - I felt trashed (shaky) after getting it, but after about 1/2 hour rest set to Short Problem on the left. There seem to be about 20 different ways of doing this problem, but I found a really nice way (for me) that involved a R Heel up near the Big edge for the RH.. Nice moves.. Had a brief play on Man of Steel (which shares same start as Swing time but goes up instead of accross then up - and gets 7B instead of 7A+)- but upper holds were dirty/wasnt sure which were the best to go for etc... A good day! new 7A+ and 7A on lime in a day... a record...



W: Hull - work - driving etc..

Th: Blackwell, Beginners Wall. I figured I'd have Man of Steel (MoS) in the bag. Wrong. Had all the sections overlapping - could reach the spike semi static keeping a heel on. But - just didnt have enough beans to push through on the link. Grr. Several frustrated slaps and misses ensued..

Sagging failure on MoS


Fr: Beastmaker - quite late about 6pm. Don't know why - just wanted to try and do something most days. anyway - it didnt seem to do me much harm for tuesdays session!

Sa: Blackwell, Beginners Wall. Set off at 7:30 to avoid the maddening Peak crowds.. Arrived and felt trashed after the BM session the afternoon before :D

Creaked my way up MoS in overlapping sections. Fell off at easy bits. Got angry. Was about to sack it off after 50 min as a shite session, filmed myself and everything was sagging - no drive, no push, no body tension. but decided to have a long rest. Read a bit, went for a bit of a walk - then got back on it 30 min later. Sent the bastard - just. Curling fingers on the finishing spike but I wasn't going to let go. Yeeeehaaah..

Got home at 11, then spent rest of the day cooking/prepping/setting up as MrsTT had organised a BBQ... Cooked, ate, drank (I seem to have got through 1/2 bottle of Gin as well as some wine...hmm...) cleared up and woke up on the sofa at 2am. Slept, swore at the cat, lay on the sofa, watched tennis, ate, went to sleep. Oh - thats Sunday...

Su: See above

All in all a really good week. It took me 3 years or so to get three 7's on Peak Lime, and I managed to get 3 new ones in a week.. so its either soft grading or I'm getting a bit better   (please - don't answer that question!)

[JackAus]

STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Usual stuff up to V5/6. Nothing new so just ran laps on some of the harder probs there. Fingerboard & frontlevers after.
W: Sissy. Warmed up then ticked a V6 that I've been falling off the last move of for ages. Very pleased to get it. Then moved on to Our Man From Havana, a shouldery 3 move V7, again just the last move to go (all right shoulder). Took a few goes but got it! First tried this back in 2013. Chuffed to get it done. Can rest my shoulder now. Started trying Hands Of My Detonator classic hard V8, crimpy as. Made a few moves on it, kind of surprised myself that I could actually hold the crimps. Also got back on Travis V7. Made a couple more moves but still the 2nd move eludes me.
T: St Peters. Stuff up to about V7ish. Worked some hard problems, ticked a few. Fairly short but intense session.
F: Rest.
S: Sissy. Morning session. Weird to see the crag in daylight..... Normally night sessions... :D Ticked another V6 I'd last tried in summer, slopey as fuck. Got back on Travis, basically stuck all the moves. Caught the 2nd move but then foot popped almost immediately. Trying it properly from the start now. This will go. So many people think this is the hardest V7 around, with alot taking V8 for it. Tried Penis Cling V8/9, 2 mover, first V9 in Aus I think. Hard. Very hard. And also tried Bowels of the Devil V10, another 2 mover thats pretty much the hardcore big brother to Havana. Could pull on but barely move. Shoulders have been starting to play up abit of late, don't want to ruin them. Had more goes on Detonator but conditions just felt bad today. Greasing off everything.
S: St Leonards. Late arvo session. Just made problems up with a mate. She is the exact opposite in climbing style to me, so the problems worked well for both of us I think. Decent fingerboard session after.

Pics all at Sissy from Sat morn.

Travis V7




Penis Cling V8/9




Bowels of the Devil V10

[JackAus]

Double post! Please delete......

[SA Chris]

something (anything) on Kleinwinterhoek in SA.

Good objective!

STG - get strong lose weight
LTG - crush

M- grabbed what looked like only dry evening to boulder outside. Headed to new spot, optimistic with recent dry spell. Was pleased what I had in mid was boners! Warmed up a bit, then ticked the Great Traverse 20 m traverse, the crux being the part the usually has water running down it. Really pleased lovely climbing, now time to start eliminating the rest holds! Did a few other good new problems, really good conditions for a change. Then tried some eliminates on a part if the wall I've not really given much attention to before. Was yarding on a good crimp edge for the third time that day when it snapped and sent me flying. Missed pad and nailed elbow and hip. After some cursing the pain subsided and I had a look at the damage; good crimp now large sloper. Cleaned it up, climbed the problem again and then it stated raining so went home.
T - Nothing, nursed wounds.
W - wall session. 3 hours fairly productive bouldering. Can actually feel like some sort of form developing, still crap on 45 deg board.
T - early evening surf. Got in straight after work to fairly meaty swell. Quite busy for Aberdeen, but still got a good half dozen waves, and did a fair bit of paddling. Wind swung onshore, I decided my 14 year old leaky 5/3 suit is no longer any good even for summer surf, as I was freezing so went home.
F - cut hedges, hard work. Did some weights and core.
S - mowed lawn (knackering - left too long!) and went for a walk with kids
S - day on beach with kids. Mostly digging, but had a short bodysurfing session, and did some paddling on ISUP, with and without kids. Lovely weather, great day out.

Weight 13 st 3 3/4. elbow feels good even after hedge cutting.

[cha1n]

M - Easy core + push-ups

T - Hard core + 3x8mins aerocap + Push-ups

W - Rest

T - Powerplant at Cheedale after work. Not great conditions but cracked on anyway. Did the crux a few times in isolation and had a play on the other sections but didn't get them very well. Certainly not to redpoint standard.

F - Rest

S - Powerplant at Cheedale. 4th session now, fast becoming my most sieged route (5 sessions for one of my 7c+'s is my most so far). Best conditions since I've started working it, nice breeze blowing through, had to put jacket on whilst belaying. Linked it from above the crux bulge (hand on good flake by bolt) to the top a few times. Feel like I've got a good sequence for the very top now and did the crux off of the rope a handful of times. Also have the bottom pretty wired but not the match on the big undercut pre-crux, haven't properly looked at that move as I'm usually boxed by there and have to rest on the rope before trying the crux.

S - Boulder Mileage, 20 boulders V3-V5 (Wasps at the works) x 2 (30 mins rest between the set). 30-60s rest between boulders all but one were first try. I'd done them all before but many felt like flashes. Attempted to do core at the end but didn't get very far, feeling tired! 4 sets of 10 Push-ups.

Have had a word with coach Randall regarding the project as I'm struggling with fitness and feel like all the base work I'm doing won't help in the short-term (he's clearly thinking long-term and rightly so). Said I'm prepared to mess things up slightly in the short-term to try and gain some fitness for the route. He's done some tweaking to the plan and things he might be able to squeeze something out of one of the energy systems to help me get through it. I also need to get super efficient on the route and climb the bottom much faster.

Really looking forward to next session as I think it'll be absolute final micro tweaks (think I might end my crux sequence a different way to make it higher percentage and maybe my initial post-crux sequence too) and maybe even squeeze in a proper redpoint go.

Only a month until my Birthday so it's getting tight now!

[fatneck]

So after writing this last week...

Mon - Pilates at work - piss.

I was brutally reminded of my general leg weakness by a session of reverse lunges and slower knee bending type excercises at Monday's Pilates session which left me hobbling for days... Karma!

Mon - See above, also went to the Hangar ion the evening with the wife and had a better session than last week. Managed a few new reds and got my eye on some whites to work...
Tue - Work stress means no gym time, nowt else
Wed - See above but add application from for new job stress...
Thurs - despite having a busy (but good) meeting, I still managed to make Pilates and given that most if the older ladies were not there managed to persuade the trainer to focus on core and shoulders. Really god session - beasted.
Fri - Nowt due to work stress but manage to complete application form (is 14,800 words too much information!?) and a nice evening out enjoying pizza with friends...
Sat - Fly fishing in the day - nice day out, plenty of fish. Hangar in the evening with wife. More new problems, getting my indoor strength back!
Sun - nice walk out at Rivington Pike with family...

Really slack week in terms of training but that happens, really good to get some climbing done. More of the same this week and hopefully get on some real rock at some stage soon!

[Schnell]

Those pictures of bouldering in Aus look amazing Jack. Extreme jealousy.

STG: fix one serious and one minor finger injury. maintain steady progress of the last few weeks.
MTG: 7B during font trip in Sept/Oct, 7C this winter

M. light shoulder/core stability stuff
T. wall pm, worked through new core training programme and foot on finger rehab hangs. then tried some problems on a new circuit with a mate which resulted in trying slightly too hard/uncontrolled, have to remember I'm not fully recovered yet.
W. gym at lunch. deadlifts, bench, lats and weighted plank. managed 5x1.5/6 bw on deadlift.
T. broken after gym, meant to go to the wall in the evening but was too tired
F. still pretty broken, did session at home of pull ups, rows, core and shoulder stability.
S. indoors. bit of bouldering plus finger rehab
S. short trad session before it started raining, did one new E2 and seconded mate up an E4 in pissing rain.

Good week, the finger rehab is going quite well. It's at stage of being able to do foot on hangs crimping a campus rung and I'll gradually increase intensity over the next while, hopefully getting to  bw hangs in not too distant future. At same time I've started a new job and am feeling generally pretty fatigued, so I have to remember to go easy.

[rodma]

Mon: nowt
Tues: weights, campussing and fingerboarding, half crimpage coming along nicely.
Wed: nowt
Thurs: Wall session. feel fairly strong but don't get up much.
Fri: Nowt
Sat: Shaftoe. mange to do "the boss", which is great fun
sun: kyloe in. bit ambitious post Shaftoe. too broken to do much, but repeat yorkshireman, hitchhikers and the likes for training purposes.

[petejh]

STG: The Brute (by 6th Sept); Diamond new route proj; Detritus Wall trad proj; G.Orme trad proj.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.5 years)
Ultimate goal: undecided


Base phase week 2, - into strength phase.

M. Kilnsey, 8 pitches of 6b+ - 6c+ o/s or repeats.
T.
W. Fingerboard sesh 1. Core and mobility sesh.
T. Slate, 4 pitches 6b+ - 6c+ o/s or repeats. Jack of Shadows has super fun movement.
F. Slate. Bollocks'd after two nights poor sleep. Only 2 pitches on Colosuss Wall.
S. Mobilty.
S. Fingerboard sesh 2, already feeling as strong as in the middle of last strength block.

32 pitches of 6b - 7a+ in last two weeks. Fun and would be nice to cruise around the rest of the summer doing lots of new trad but no! Short strength phase this week with condensed rest, into power next week.

[fried]

M - Th - Nothing 2 rest days, friends visited etc etc. Anyway I have a 4 day bank holiday weekend coming up, so I thought I'd take it easy.

Fr - Go camping
Sa - Buthiers Piscine, hot, did a good few blues and a red slab that I think I cheated on before. Played on a lot of different stuff, but far too hot to be doing much in the way of grade whoring. Back to le Prez for beer.

Su - Drank a bit much and feel a bit fragile, went to Isatis did some reds, then Zip zut, first 6A of the year 25° in direct sun too. Decided to come back to Paris, rather than sending the missus home by train. Got home to discover that I'd left the cellar keys back at the camp site in the pockets of a tent I was chucking.... to be continued.

[iain]

Another +1 for the pictures guys, eyecandy for a Monday morning.

Nice, the lightning was 

Realised I need to get much much fitter for routes, shouldn't be redpointing 7a+s no matter how undergraded they are

So undergraded I thought it was given 7b? Either way don't give yourself too hard a time, onsighting on Peak lime is nails, fitness doesn't go as far.

sun: kyloe in.

I miss Kyloe

STG: Unleashing the Wild Physique, 2 Gogarth long weekends in August
MTG: Dolomites in September (almost STG), The Prow (maybe full), Stone the Loach, Dominatrix (not got time till autumn), Body Machine direct

M: Works circuits with Ms, wasn't focussed so not much structure but fun.

T: Aerocap, 3x10mins. There's been a satisfying improvement in how hard I can pull during this.

W: Rest

T: Cheedale Cornice. Postive session on Unleashing, all moves and links done so went for a redpoint and fell off mid route feeling good and not pumped  My fingers were a bit numb so must've not had the holds quite right. Conditions got a big slippery later on and second redpoint overgripped and didn't get far.

F: Smalldale for the first time but v.midgy and humid. Fell off a lot when I really shouldn't have, eg. didn't manage Can Boys clean at 3 times of asking, bit pathetic. Forearms got worked though.

S: Family visit, rest

S: Could've gone to the wall but still tired so more rest.

After this thread I realised that on routes I've barely gone up in difficulty over the last 10 years and should pull my finger out, so when a friend got on Unleashing I thought I should give it a go and been pleasantly surprised. Two problems though, one is that it hurts my joints, the second is that I got the redpoint fear for the first time in ages.
First is dealt with by giving them 2 weeks rest when I go on a non-climbing holiday next week, second by mtfu.

Aim for 2 redpointing days/evening this week.

[nai]

So undergraded I thought it was given 7b?

Still 7a+ according to the BMC, must admit I'd be happy with a bit more for all that effort.

Either way don't give yourself too hard a time, onsighting on Peak lime is nails, fitness doesn't go as far.

Even on RP is wasn't as easy as you'd hope when operating 4 grades below your aspirations.
Came to the conclusion earlier in the year that shorter, more powerful end of endurance was what was needed for Peak routes.  Not convinced that's right now though.

[iain]

Came to the conclusion earlier in the year that shorter, more powerful end of endurance was what was needed for Peak routes.  Not convinced that's right now though.

FWIW I'd agree with this for redpointing.

[duncan]

STG: OS E3. Double or Quits (by 19th July). Navarro-Rabada, Naranjo de Bulnes.
MTG: E5 by end of September. 7b by end of year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.

M - Westway: 6 routes (6a-6b+), aerobic capacity (10mins on /10mins off x 3)
T-
W - Shoulder and hip routine.
T - Shoulder stuff
F - Shoulder and hip routine.
S - Family stuff. Shoulder and hip routine. 5km walk-jog.
S - Family stuff. Westway with the lad. c.20 x very, very easy problems. Shoulder sore after.

Mediocre week, shoulder deteriorated again, probably overcooked things slightly on Monday. On the other hand, hip may be improving slightly.
Plan: ease back into it, mainly mileage on rock and plastic. Do some kind of exercise every day.

No inspirational photos I’m afraid, best I can offer is a plastic-pulling five year old.

[Muenchener]

Blue hold dab. 

[highrepute]

Came to the conclusion earlier in the year that shorter, more powerful end of endurance was what was needed for Peak routes.  Not convinced that's right now though.

FWIW I'd agree with this for redpointing.

which route you talking about?

[nai]

Came to the conclusion earlier in the year that shorter, more powerful end of endurance was what was needed for Peak routes.  Not convinced that's right now though.

FWIW I'd agree with this for redpointing.

which route you talking about?

Just Peak routes in general, seems to be very few that are at the pumpy end of PE, stringing 20+ moves together.  Most seem to be extended bouldering (AnCap/Pow?), even longer ones like Body Machine or Indecent have extended bouldering separated by good rests. I'm sure there must be examples but I haven't really come across too many, be happy to be recomended some.

[highrepute]

Think I quoted the wrong quote. Got the impression TT was talking about a particular route.

Either way I agree, my onsight grade in the peak is much lower than on the continent. Indecent being the exception but you can only onsight it(or try to) once. Open gate and the route next to it (case adjourned?), routes from martial music to bored of the lies at cornice. I went stoney west recently and thought the good routes there were actually ok, they'd be worth doing to work on onsighting skills.

Conversely, I think routes in the peak are very flash-able. not being very long you can gather good beta from watching your partner work the moves.