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Have you seen this flake? (Read 11564 times)

slackline

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Have you seen this flake?
July 06, 2015, 08:30:32 pm

lagerstarfish

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#1 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 06, 2015, 09:00:46 pm
sika not mixed properly ?

TheTwig

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#2 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 01:58:22 am
Wanted: Flake that looks like a dick, head of an elephant or a skinny goth wearing platform boots.

SA Chris

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#3 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 07:31:53 am
Or Idaho. Might be worth checking for some new bouldering potential at the base.

duncan

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#4 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 08:28:28 am
The NW face of Half Dome is highly geologically active, bits drop off all the time, though usually on the aid routes further right. Interesting that no-one seems to have heard it go, you'd think it would have made a bit of noise hitting the deck from 1000' feet up. Or noticed there was a pitch missing before they arrived at that point.

The route, free, is/was my last remaining realistic project in Yosemite. It was my first wall (with corniceman, in 1981) and would have made a suitable final fling, very hard for me but not completely absurd. I wonder what is left?

sika not mixed properly ?

 ;D

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 09:38:39 am
A guy I know did it recently and thought it was fine.

Paul B

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#6 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 11:19:48 am
I know as Duncan says this face is highly 'active' but when Nat and I were there I was shocked by just how much was coming down under this route.

Some of that was down to a team above hauling carelessly but during the night(s) we slept up there, there was constant rockfall and the final time we attempted it an alarmingly large block landed a little too close for comfort whilst tying on! This prompted us to leave it as it's just something completely beyond your control and seemed to be ever-present.

Was anyone hurt? Given the popularity of the route and the fact that it's a better choice at this time of year than other Yos. objectives it'd be amazing if nobody was up there!

slackline

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#7 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 11:28:30 am
Was anyone hurt? Given the popularity of the route and the fact that it's a better choice at this time of year than other Yos. objectives it'd be amazing if nobody was up there!

Apparently not...

Quote
"I am sure that one way or another it will get restored to climbable shape," said big-wall expert Dave Allfrey. "Maybe it is just a question of how many bolts it will take. It is wild because I was just up there on June 10, and we retreated after some pretty sizable rockfall came right off the Visor in the late evening, following a thunderstorm a few hours prior.

"Thank god this didn't happen that day—there were 14 people at the base," Allfrey added. "It really is amazing that nobody got hurt or killed. It could have been so bad."

duncan

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#8 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 12:55:46 pm
Some of that was down to a team above hauling carelessly but during the night(s) we slept up there, there was constant rockfall and the final time we attempted it an alarmingly large block landed a little too close for comfort whilst tying on! This prompted us to leave it as it's just something completely beyond your control and seemed to be ever-present.

I don't remember any rockfall when I was up there, but you're not the only person to say something like this about the regular route recently. I had thought it was worse over on the steeper right-hand side but perhaps not longer the case. Geologist (and handy climber) Roger Putnam: ""Often, when you see rockfalls coming from underneath a roof at the base of an exfoliation slab, more will follow. I hope nobody goes up there for quite a while."

Sadly, I think I'll be giving it a miss for a short period of geological time.


A guy I know did it recently and thought it was fine.

Apparently it was fine two weeks ago and not fine by the 5th July.

cheque

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#9 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 01:04:50 pm
Apparently it was fine two weeks ago and not fine by the 5th July.

Reading the comments on the article it seems it happened during a big thunderstorm on Thursday night- hence no-one noticed the noise and the wall and route were free of people. Just as well considering the size of it!

tomtom

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#10 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 07:30:01 pm
No correlation I'm afraid.

Rock fall magnitude/frequency follows a negative power law distribution (many small events - very few high ones) and over a reasonably long sample time (e.g a year to ten years) - is pretty random. It can of course be set off by earthquakes and during thaws (ice holding it together) but it's hard to pin it down or predict it in any way.

In my best professorial terminology: shit happens.

andy_e

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#11 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 07:52:27 pm
How far up and down does the power law relationship go?  :)

tomtom

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#12 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 08:16:35 pm
How far up and down does the power law relationship go?  :)

Several generations ;)

andy_e

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#13 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 09:01:30 pm
What's the frequency of one micron diameter rockfalls?

a dense loner

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#14 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 09:15:54 pm
7

tomtom

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#15 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 09:42:53 pm

What's the frequency of one micron diameter rockfalls?

Billions. With every gust of wind :p

Will Hunt

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#16 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 07, 2015, 11:08:17 pm
I'm confused. Do we blame immigrants or bankers?

AndyR

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#17 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 08, 2015, 03:12:02 am
No correlation I'm afraid.

Rock fall magnitude/frequency follows a negative power law distribution (many small events - very few high ones) and over a reasonably long sample time (e.g a year to ten years) - is pretty random. It can of course be set off by earthquakes and during thaws (ice holding it together) but it's hard to pin it down or predict it in any way.

In my best professorial terminology: shit happens.

Not sure I completely buy that for all instances of rockfall - The one that Habrich references happened in an area where there is relatively little observed rockfall.  In this case, the detachment of a large block was preceded by a few days of relatively high frequency smaller rockfall from around the same area - I find it very hard to believe that they weren't related.

tomtom

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#18 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 08, 2015, 06:02:24 am
No correlation I'm afraid.

Rock fall magnitude/frequency follows a negative power law distribution (many small events - very few high ones) and over a reasonably long sample time (e.g a year to ten years) - is pretty random. It can of course be set off by earthquakes and during thaws (ice holding it together) but it's hard to pin it down or predict it in any way.

In my best professorial terminology: shit happens.

Not sure I completely buy that for all instances of rockfall - The one that Habrich references happened in an area where there is relatively little observed rockfall.  In this case, the detachment of a large block was preceded by a few days of relatively high frequency smaller rockfall from around the same area - I find it very hard to believe that they weren't related.

Getting (interestingly) way off topic, but people (certainly including scientists - and especially the Daily Mail!) tend to look for cause and effect. It suits our nature for there to be a reason for things to happen - for something to be linked to something else.  Apophenia is a useful word to describe how people tend to falsely link cause and effect...

Rock fall follows the same distribution to earthquakes and landslides. You get many many small ones, but only the odd large one. Like earthquakes there are only certain parts of the world where you are likely to have them (fault zones for earthquakes, cliffs for rockfalls - they can't happen on a plateau obviously..) but in those zones it would appear their size and frequency is largely unpredictable..

slackline

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#19 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 08, 2015, 07:21:48 am
Rock fall follows the same distribution to earthquakes and landslides. You get many many small ones, but only the odd large one. Like earthquakes there are only certain parts of the world where you are likely to have them (fault zones for earthquakes, cliffs for rockfalls - they can't happen on a plateau obviously..) but in those zones it would appear their size and frequency is largely unpredictable..

The power law for earthquakes doesn't say anything about the relationship between when the small and larger frequency events occur though, just the relative frequency with which events of different magnitude are observed over a (long) period of time in relation to each other which doesn't seem to cover any spatio-temporal relationship?

The power law says you get small events frequently and only sometimes are these related to larger events without small events being a necessary precursor to a large event but it wouldn't be unexpected for larger rockfalls (or earthquakes) to occasionally be preceded by a series of smaller events but the infrequency with which they coincide makes them a pretty poor predictor overall.  It doesn't seem unreasonable to me though, that because of the phyiscal nature of rock that sometimes the two are related, but that all areas of rockfall are different and this is not therefore true across all strata.

tomtom

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#20 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 08, 2015, 07:41:02 am
Rock fall follows the same distribution to earthquakes and landslides. You get many many small ones, but only the odd large one. Like earthquakes there are only certain parts of the world where you are likely to have them (fault zones for earthquakes, cliffs for rockfalls - they can't happen on a plateau obviously..) but in those zones it would appear their size and frequency is largely unpredictable..

The power law for earthquakes doesn't say anything about the relationship between when the small and larger frequency events occur though, just the relative frequency with which events of different magnitude are observed over a (long) period of time in relation to each other which doesn't seem to cover any spatio-temporal relationship?

The power law says you get small events frequently and only sometimes are these related to larger events without small events being a necessary precursor to a large event but it wouldn't be unexpected for larger rockfalls (or earthquakes) to occasionally be preceded by a series of smaller events but the infrequency with which they coincide makes them a pretty poor predictor overall.  It doesn't seem unreasonable to me though, that because of the phyiscal nature of rock that sometimes the two are related, but that all areas of rockfall are different and this is not therefore true across all strata.

Ahh.. you're being sucked in by the need to see cause and effect there slackers ;)

Of course you can get small earthquakes before a large one - you can also get a large earthquake from nowhere with little or no precursors - and of course you can get lots of small earthquakes after a large one.. In Yosemite, the small rockfalls may of course happened before the large flake fell off - but that doesnt mean that small rockfalls mean a large flake is going to fall off - and a large flake may fall off without there being any small rockfalls :D

There is ALWAYS a cause and effect for an individual event. Something must happen due to the internal structure weakening, that final drop of water causing some weathering that lends it to break - or that final friend being fallen on giving just enough pressure for it to fail etc.... but my point is that if you try and look at a group, range or period of rock falls you cannot link them to any overall cause - or establish any general precursor/warning for them to happen based on smaller rockfalls..

Anyway, nice to get the morning brain juices going :)

andy_e

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#21 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 08, 2015, 08:26:45 am
Good points there. Still doesn't address the question, how often do you get a rock fall of 10 km diameter? Put that in your power law pipe  ;)

slackline

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#22 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 08, 2015, 09:36:01 am

Ahh.. you're being sucked in by the need to see cause and effect there slackers ;)

Of course you can get small earthquakes before a large one - you can also get a large earthquake from nowhere with little or no precursors - and of course you can get lots of small earthquakes after a large one.. In Yosemite, the small rockfalls may of course happened before the large flake fell off - but that doesnt mean that small rockfalls mean a large flake is going to fall off - and a large flake may fall off without there being any small rockfalls :D
[/quote]


Not really since all I said was that sometimes larger rock falls will be preceded by smaller ones, but not always.  I read that the ARM model for earthquakes based on this theory isn't particularly well supported by data.

The power law still lacks the important time aspect and it would be interesting to plot this third dimension, but I'd imagine theres quite a big problem with incomplete data (whether its rockfall or earthquakes) so it might not be that informative.

tomtom

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#23 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 08, 2015, 11:31:29 am
Good points there. Still doesn't address the question, how often do you get a rock fall of 10 km diameter? Put that in your power law pipe  ;)

Submarine rockfall - c'est possible...

andy_e

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#24 Re: Have you seen this flake?
July 08, 2015, 11:35:20 am
OK smart-arse, what about 100 km then?

Also, are submarine rock-falls classed in the same group as subaerial? I'd have thought they'd be separate due to differing mechanics...
« Last Edit: July 08, 2015, 11:42:01 am by andy_e »

 

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