[Banana finger]

Hello All,
             Sorry if this has been asked before....couldn't find it in the search tho.....Does anyone have any beta on this? Tried it last night after a day of routes and it felt pretty nails. Is the sequence as obvious as it seems or is there any trickery? I did the obvious, pocket, LH crimp, RH boss pinch, LH tweaky undercut, tight egyption, try to go over with RH to the gaston......thought my wrist was going to break...dropped off....

Do i just need to pull harder?

Cheers,
Ben

[Paul B]

There should be another thread somewhere as I had a similar experience!

Left footholds were key and it not being boiling hot.

[T_B]

It's got a rep for being very hard for 8a (7C boulder) with small holds.

Quite a bit of discussion here, though some years ago:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9331.msg150993.html#msg150993

[Doylo]

I've been thinking about bouldering grades for short routes as I've got a few short projects. It seems the standard is usually 7B+ = 8a , 7C = 8a+ , 7C+ = 8b but then there is a lot of variation also. Eg Entree 7C and 8a, Pump Up the Power is obscene for 8a+ at 7C+ yet Zeke is 7C and 8b (as is Magnetic fields). I guess it depends sometimes how hard the route is to do and if there's any climbing either side of the boulder problem.

[J_duds]

i think this may be 8a+ in the new guide - anybody got a copy to check?

[Bonjoy]

Yes it's 8a+ in the new bmc guide. A well deserved upgrade, harder than Caviar in my opinion.

[willackers]

A well deserved upgrade, harder than Caviar in my opinion.

I was just going to say that, totally agree.

[Paul B]

it's almost like the people writing these guides strive for some kind of consensus before publication...