[Oldmanmatt]

HIJACK!

I know I've been a scent from this club for sometime.

This is the result of a shameful, utter and complete lack of training or climbing. This has been accompanied by massive weight gain, epic atrophy and much gurrly wailing and poncey  complaining about pain (SO MUCH PAIN!) in my shoulder.
I have spent the last (almost) two years trying to recover from a torn rotator cuff in my right shoulder. I have tried on numerous occasions to "get back into it", only to set my recovery back desperately. I finally realised the need for complete rest around November last year and, simply, stopped.

Until the end of Feb.

Then I started, slowly, to train.

But not climb.

I have been trying to reach a reasonable level of  all over conditioning before launching into a "climbing specific" programme. Climbing (anything harder than V4) seems like a distant and rather scary prospect (did I mention how much it hurt?) for now.

I feel ready to shift onto a more specific regimen.

Hence my hijack and early submission.

I want to know what you think. Look at the session I've just completed and tell me if you think I'm ready to get back on the board. Maybe even climb?
Without undoing all the work.

So.

Just finished a four week programme, as shown below (one that follows almost 10 weeks of build up) and finish my rest week on Monday morning, when I hope to begin a more advanced set.












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[T_B]

Cave Life!

6 days in Wales and 3 x 3-hour sessions in the Cave...

M - Arrive at the Cave to find that the LF sidepull is damp. Having spent last Thursday drying a problem at Anston, I didn't feel very motivated to do the same again, so decided to switch focus to Hatchatrocity, the 8A low start to Rock Atrocity. I'd had a brief look at this last year and had decided that it was my sort of thing - big moves between good holds. After warming up, I tried RA from the Wobbly Block and managed it first go - just need to add 4 moves! This is where preparation comes in. I'd watched two separate videos of people going to the RA starting jug with their left, but luckily had later watched a vid of doylo going with his right. This became my sequence, and I linked from the start to the RA 4-finger drilled pocket on day 1.
T -
W - Dryer in the Cave today. Normally I don't rest much between attempts when bouldering, but in the Cave you need a sport climbing redpoint mentality - chill out. I had a couple of goes getting to the flake match on RA, then next go just managed to get into the finishing slot - my 3rd 8A! Or is it? Hatchatrocity seems to have become a very popular 8A in the Cave, but is a 6-move 7B/7B+ into a 8-move 7C 8A? Compared to say, Staminaband, which is 2 x 7Cs? There are 7B+s at the Tor that I have tried loads, and recently, and still can't do (Powerhumps being the obvious one). The problem is most of the 8As in the Peak that I have tried on the lime are short and fingery, so impossible to compare. Plus I have been doing steep bouldering on the 50 degree board at the School all winter, plus specific AnCap circuits, so it's not as if I'm not prepared for this style. Anyway, it's a cool problem having at least an obvious starting hold, even if it does finish in the middle of nowhere! Finished session hurting my right middle finger slightly running around trying various things.
T - Briefly tested out middle finger at Bustach boulders - seemed OK. Might be back on for tomorrow.
F - 3rd session. Resisting the temptation to try Pilgrim, for obvious reasons, I get stuck into Lou Ferrino, as it's bone dry. I spent 3 sessions on this last May and fell from the first drilled pocket a few times. At first I'm really struggling, but with some beta from Pete Robins (who also provides some psyche by doing two awesome links on Pilgrimage), it starts coming together. Basically I fall off from the pocket about 4 times. Either not getting it well enough with my back 3, or, on the attempt where I got closest, I had enough pull, but pinged out as I just didn't have it that well. Ah well. I love this problem as at first it feels desperate and frustrating, but then you end up getting it wired and rattling through the start every time. If only I could finish it off! Still, a mega work out.
S - Drive home feeling pretty broken and dreaming of grit trad shuffling.
S - Wake up with lower back in spasm, can't stand up straight.

Hopefully back will sort itself out quickly. It feels as though my body needs a decent rest (both middle fingers feel very stiff), so will take stock and decide what to do next.

[iain]

Welcome back Matt 

Can't help you with the shoulder though, except to say whatever you do take it easy and slow.

[Doylo]

Nice one Tom, think it's just about 8a. More sustained than the 7c+s. Put it down as one that suits you  I thought Staminaband was 7b+ into 7c but Powerband is less brutal than Rockatrocity.

[JackAus]

STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 5/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest.
T: St Peters. Last session with an english mate (left the country on thurs). Usual shouldery as fuck made up problems.
W: Sissy. Ruined after St Petes... Warm ups up to V4 then a couple new (for me) V4s. Tried a burly project thats around V11. Didn't really try much else. Birthday so mates brought a bbq and steaks and we had beers at the crag.
T: St Leonards. Still ruined. New stuff up to V6ish. Tried abit of campussing and just failed. Couldn't crimp anything. Too sore.
F: Much needed rest!
S: Crumbly. 3rd time here. Last time was 8 months ago. Got back on Sushi Train V8. Stuck the crux bump loads. Had never stuck it before. Couldn't do the top though. Very pleased to get that. Felt like a major hurdle the last 2 sessions. Didn't stick it from the start though. Tried moves on a looooong V11. Did a few but not psyched on the problem. Finished the session with a V6 2nd go. Had tried it last time but first move cut my hand open. Missed the first move first go, then cruised it 2nd. Felt like about V4.
S: Frontline. Slightly damp but cool. Warmed up on stuff up to V5, failed (again!) on a technical V4 (Diplomatic Immunity). Ran a lap on Sloper-Dan Milosevic V5. Worked the low start (lowball sloper trav. Pretty burly. Gets V7). Couple goes, didn't feel great, just too low.
Jumped on a varient, Boogie Knights (V7 finish). Tried it a couple times about 2 months ago and it felt desperate. First go from first move in, I did to the top out, jumped off pretty annoyed at myself. Fucked up hand sequence next go (reversed it, got it right then fell on crux press). Pathed it 3rd go. Felt really easy. Wanted to do the original V8 finish but it was wet. Reckon I could cruise it when dry. Started working a V10 lowball lip trav into Boogie. Hard. Finished off the day with a 2nd go tick of a very weird balancey technical V4. Good day.

Progress. Good days and bad days. Slowly feeling like its all coming together.

[tomtom]

STG Get over Jetlag..
MTG avoid divorce due to prioritising climbing over other things...
LTG avoid prioritising other things over climbing

M: Work
Tu: Work
We: Work AM - then leave Australia and begin the long journey back to the UK
Thu: Arrive Heathrow 5:50am - get back to Manchester noon..
Fri: Rain. Rain. Rain. Went to Logport wall at lunchtime... I was really really crap. Managed nothing over V3. No co-ordination whatsoever.
Sa: Woke up at 5am (thanks time zones!) so got out to Dove Lowe by 7:45am... was still wet but drying.. potterer around on some easier stuff/bimbles whilst the harder stuff dried. Then spent about 90 min working a 7B then tired out. Went to try a 7A+ that was very green - (apart from the main holds that had once been cleaned) and unfortunately snapped a key pebble (taking off a load of knuckle in the process). Gave up - went home.
Su: Write up power club entry and listen to the rain drumming on the windows...

[fried]

Family holiday week in the peak. I had absolutely no expectations of doing much, and so I wasn't disappointed when that was exactly what happened.

M - Roaches, kid spotting while all the adults stand around lookiing hungover/cold/miserable. Niece was very happy to climb that slab with the chipped steps. I had fun. Beer in Rock Inn.

T/W - Family pub walks. I climbed something at Birchen's.

Th - RHS/ Cratcliffe with an additional kid who made my two look like angels. He climbed like a madman with little care for mats or footwork, his mum didn't seem especially concerned. Repeated a couple of easy things.

F - Back to Herts
S - More booze
Su - Back home in time for BWC semis.

Thumb still a bit sore, but hopefully get a couple of sessions in next week before the temperature is predicted to reach the low/mid 30°s in the forest next weekend.

[Muenchener]

STG: 7a+ redpoint
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine: 93.0%
            Muscle Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer),  Marmolada south face (Vinatzer Messner)

M: Frankenjura. 6c+ redpoint see last week
T: Knee physio, mobility, shoulder & elbow prehab
   Listened to Training Beta Poochcast whilst ironing.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes 6a 5c 6a+ 6b 6a+ 6b (roof onsight, felt easy: good because I have big mental issues on steep stuff) 6b+ 6c+ (couple of rests but felt pretty steady) 6a
T: Bike to work 25km
F: Wall, Boulderwelt. Progress on 7b circuit project: half a move. Touched the hold after the crux but couldn't move on from it.
S: Family bike outing to Starnberger See. Circa 50km. Only one biergarten stop, must do better next time. Am still faster than M jnr (aged 12) on road, but can't keep up with him on forest path descents.
S: Dragged out to the local woods for another couple of hours by M jnr, now eager to demonstrate that he can go places on his new birthday mountain bike that I can't follow on my commuter. Haven't enjoyed biking so much for ages.

[HazelR]

Gonna try posting here in an attempt to keep better track of what I'm doing and focus my climbing a bit – this year so far has not been panning out the way I hoped.

STG
Reduce working hours to something a bit saner
Get to the wall more than once a week

This year
Tick some outstanding 7b+/c projects
Something harder?

M – Malham. Sequence sorted for Space Race but a) undercuts all still wet and b) clearly not going to go in the time available, hoping to get back reasonably soon.
T – Rest.
W – Wall. Short boulder, feeling tired and a bit grotty.
T – Rest. Definitely ill.
F – Rest.
S – Coughing up gunk... went to the wall but didn't stay long, pretty out of breath and sorry for myself.
S – Lie in. Followed by a much better boulder session.

[mr chaz]

M.
T.

W. CWP hangboard program. Now using a pully with 5.5kg assistance, having always used a fixed sling previously. Decided to see what I could do unassisted afterwards, hung the edge for ~10s on right hand 90 degree lock and ~5s on left without any assistance, my best yet!

T. Campussing for about 40 mins. Mainly on the campus board but also did some on the 40 degree. Tried 1 4 7, got nowhere near, then...

F. YYFY! 



First 1 4 7. Done on the medium rungs which I believe are standard spacing. Repeated a further 4 times in the session. All leading with right hand first, can't quite do it the other way round.

S. Session at boulder central, just bouldering.

S. Sleeping

Decent week overall. Achieved my campus goal for the year and feeling stronger on the 1 arm hangs than ever before.

[andy popp]

Catching up on two weeks as I didn't post last weekend, due to extreme busy-ness.

Aims: project, some bonus ticks

Monday 18th - Sunday 24th
M - aching a little from Harmers the day before. Work.
T - Good board session (bouldering) in the evening. Continue to make some (re)gains
W - fingerboarding, see improvements again
T - girlfriend arrives for a visit from US, there is clearly going to be no training/climbing as we see each other rarely
F - fun stuff
S - ditto
S - ditto

Monday 25th - Sunday 31st
M - epic day trip to London, knackered!
T - girlfriend flies home in the morning. Epic pile of work to catch up on but train on the board, warm up and then 3x3 on easy problems. Felt tired but managed to complete these
W - Very long day in work
T - fly to Copenhagen, for work, which also means socialising
F - Copenhagen
S - Fly home, busy when I get back
S - huge pile of marking. I could have trained today but am still hoping to get out tomorrow on the way to Aber so don't

Two great weeks on the non-climbing front, not so much climbing wise. Did at least manage two sessions the first week but disappointed not to have fitted in a second session this week. C'est la vie!

[the_dom]

Mon: Indoor bouldering, not too bad a sesh.
Tues: Treadmill intervals & mobility
Wed: Indoor bouldering and some tired one arm max hangs afterwards
Thurs: AM: hangboard - encores on the BM 35 degree sloper and small edge. PM: 40 min trail run
Fri: Rest day. First one in ages, and only the second on in May.
Sat: Early surf in rather spicy waves (Dungeons was breaking) with a hangover followed by a PM indoor bouldering session
Sun: AM: hangboard - one arm max hangs. PM: hangboard - max hangs and repeaters. It was rainy and I was feeling lazy.

A good week, all in all.

[shark]

11.5-7

M. AM Tor. Met Nick C there. 9.5deg Back on Tin OF. Made a meal of sorting out how to clip crux bolt and blew two redpoints but managed to redpoint it third go. Had a few goes on Undercut to Crimp (7B+)
T.
W.Eve. Fingerboard. Progress
T.
F. AM Tor. Met Nick C there. Filthy weather when got there but lots dry. Ended up bouldering for a couple of hours mainly on Rattle and Hump start, Undercut to Crimp and last move of Powerband. Weather improved. Flashed Tin Of putting clips in. Almost did Sardine but right hand slipped unexpectedly just as completing crux. Good session.
S. Evening. Not psyched to go out but eventually headed out with mats. Cool conditions at tor. Gave Ted a belay on Tomb Raider. Went on Undercut to Crimp. Progress. Touched crimp several times. Couple of goes on RnHump - better than yesterday (conditions?) and then had a play on Bens Roof start but needed a different boot but overall felt at a similar level to when I've tried it before. Surprised at my performance second day on.
S. PM Fingerboard. Started adding weight

Bodyweight up but otherwise a positive week. On weds I was demoted from Burns Unit to Scar Management Unit. Hand is still sensitive to bumps and scrapes and I now have the exciting black compression glove.

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 80.06 miles 4hrs 56 mins.
Tue. Board repeated some problems from May last year. Climbing quite well given yesterday's efforts. Bike 29.95 miles 1 hr 46 mins.
Wed. Bike 71.98 miles 4hrs 5 mins.
Thu. Board 15 problems to warm up, the 6 problems 4 times each.
Fri. Board worked one of my projects closer, did a new problem in a couple of goes and did one I couldn't do early in the week. Did a lot of climbing.
Sat. Bike 81.78 miles 4hrs 40 mins.
Sun. Board easyish mirror session, completed it in an hour. Grandsons first birthday party in afternoon.
Good weeks exercise need spend more time not at work.

[duncan]

Gonna try posting here in an attempt to keep better track of what I'm doing and focus my climbing a bit – this year so far has not been panning out the way I hoped.

 

It'll be good to have your analytical approach here.



Weeks Singapore and Malaysia didn't involve much climbing, though sufficient to tweak my shoulder. Back to UK, rest, rehabilitate, and off again.

73.5kg

STG:
Avoid recurrence of shoulder problem before going to Fairhead.
Lose 2kg.
OS E3 at Fairhead.
MTG: E5 by end of September. Get flock of ducks in a row to enable trip to Picos and elsewhere this summer.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.


M -
T- Westway: Bouldering to ~V3, puntering on routes to 5+
W - Westway: 10 routes on the autobelay up to 5+
T -
F -
S - Roaches for my token annual grit day: warmed-up then did Shortcomings, Safety Net and the exciting Topaz. All good fun, I should do this more often.
S - fingerboard session: the warm-up routine (big holds, 3.5 minutes total hang time). Shoulder stability stuff.

Plan: avoid injury before Fairhead next weekend.
Ease back into fingerboarding on return.

[Herbert]

Stg: 3 more each of 7a and 7A MtG: carrot ridge, Lightening Strike, Underbare DWS, Ltg: 7b, Cuillin ridge

M-
T- fingerboard and shoulder rehab
W - press ups and shoulder rehab
T - fingerboard and shoulder rehab
F-
S-
S-
Diet, booze and sleep: dreadful, new baby has affected all so time to get back on the wagon.

[nai]

Effort T_B, quite a roll you've been on.

STG strength work, long list of routes to address
MTG - Autumn crushage

M - rest
T - rest (5th day off, starting to get a bit tetchy)
W - mini works with kids. Volume - about 60 problems 4-6C.
Th - warm up, limit bouldering, max hangs baseline session
F - warm up, tried AnCap circuit but couldn't manage it, repeaters baseline session. Eve 3x10mins Aero
S - rest
S - new 16 move AnCap circuit, less cruxy than previous, 2x5x50s, 2 mins rest, failed move 14 final rep; 8x Foc 52s on, 30s rest.

Start of a new seven week phase until summer hols,going to focus on strength & AnCap but not sure I shouldn't be incorporating some PE which is what's holding me back I think.
Baseline sessions were interesting, max weight down on where the last phase finished but crucially (I guess) up on where it began.

[iain]

A few days have vanished from last week, I can't even remember when I climbed.

STG: Update the training logbook. Dominatrix (short person's beta for the top anyone?)
S/MTG: Secret Gudgeon Society when shoulder's up to it, Body Machine, The Prow (maybe full), Stone the Loach and E4/5 lime trad.
MTG: Dolomites in September

Bank holiday Sat: Beeston Tor for trad, first time this year due to shoulder. 2xE1, E2 and E3. A bit grassy in places but really nice rock and stuff to go back for.
Bank holiday Sun: Kilnsey. As per my usual had to redpoint the warmup then got on Dominatrix. I seem to manage a session a year on this, new stg is to actually do it.
M: Bank holiday Mon: 20 mile mountain bike, not trivial for me. Good fun though.
T: Battered
W: Had meant to climb but one of the local youths decided the van made a good target for a stone. Took way too much time to deal with (and still not done)
T: Meant to be outside but partner bailed. Circuit boulder, difficulty over volume.
F: Warm up, some harder bouldering then 2x10min aerocap. Was meant to be 3x but skin hurt too much.
S: Rest
S: Hard volume session going round a circuit at the works. Only one problem took me more than a couple of tries so will get on a harder circuit next time.

Had meant to do 2 aerocap sessions this week but too tired after the weekend. Aim to do 2 this week plus 1 Ancap.

[cheque]

STG- Finish film without becoming irretrievably crap at climbing.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

LTG- 8B without creatine.

Only one day of climbing this week, although I did include Monday's session in last week. Pressure's really on now as I approach the deadline for showing my film  so been consumed by editing. Hard to think of anything else at the moment!

On Wednesday I had DOMS in a place I've never had it before- the same place where I get pumped when I use crimps (I've never had anything like decent endurance on crimps) which I took as a sign that I'm training the right thing!

Th- Pleasley Vale. 4 blasts on the extended Monk's Wall Traverse as previous two weeks. Second go I did the whole thing (first time this campaign), and first and third goes I jumped back on immediately after mistakes to complete it. Pumped out fourth go.

I took ten minutes less than last Thursday to do my four goes which must be a good sign- I haven't been timing my rests, I just get back on after I feel I've depumped enough.

Need to start doing some home training- weights, pullups or something while I'm on the computer all the time- I meant to do this this weekend but just forgot.

[Luke Owens]

Missed a week so I'll include both:

18th - 24th
M - W: Rest

T: Orme - 3 redpoints on Senile Penile Extension (7b+) high point on last 2 redpoints calling off latching crux hold.

S: Rest

S: Waunfawr Boulders - Very damp but managed to dry Le Grand Blu (7A) and flashed it, then repeated it 2 more times because it's awesome.

Tried Royaume de Mousse Droit (7A) a few times but didn't stick at it due to loosing skin.

Vid:

Had a rushed few goes on Viking Invasion (6C+) on the way home but didn't realise it started on the left side of the arete.

25th - 31st

M: Rest

T: Pass Bouldering - Went exploring around Cwm Glas Bach/Bryn Hel. Tried Y Senedd (7A) a load of times kept failing to commit to the last move, turns out I was too far left and shouldn't of been above the rock slab/nasty landing.

Flashed "Goat Head" (6C+) then went a tried Mooses Toothpaste (6C+) in the fading light, no idea how to stick the last move, nails slopey grit style problem.

W - S: Tonsilitus

The plan now I'm well is to hit Dinbren until I tick Flowers are for the Dead (7c) which I made good progress on last year.

[SA Chris]

Right, back on the fucking wagon!

STG - Got weight down, get some fitness back
MTG - sone harder probs about

M - went for a long walk to local windfarm to get some photos, circa 5 miles. Would have biked it, but sparing elbow.
T - bouldered on local seacliffs, only di half dozen or so probs, just taking it easy.
W - wall session - did a load of easy routes (second time on wall this year so took it easy) then did an hour or so of hardish bouldering. Managed a V4 (their grades not mine) first go on 30 deg board I got spanked by 2 weeks before, so pretty pleased)
T - Nowt
F - Nowt
S - swimming with kids in morning, then get knocked back by showers 3 x as I was just about to leave house in afternoon eventually gve up trying.
S - tipping down, so wall session in morning. Bouldered for circa 2 hours, managed a V5 on 45 deg board that I got shut down on in the week. Did a load of new stuff on vert wall, feeling more dialled in on techy stuff. Went for walk with kids in afternoon.

Quite pleased first time I've managed 2 hardish sessions in a week without elbow pain! Need to shift some weight though, hard to do as I'm staying off bike, and running doesn't do my knees much good (plus I don't enjoy it). What a drag it is getting old.

[nik at work]

Away so can't face typing full post on phone. Suffice to say an average week.
However I would be interested to hear (shark?) how the tor is looking. Especially make it funky. I'm guessing wet but is it even playable on?

[gme]

Mon- nowt
Tues- Nowt
Wed- works circuit board. Did the easy route and 7a+ a few times then worked the brown 7c, did in two sections bar falling off the last move. finger ok.
Thus- rest
Fri- moonboard. Dozen or so problems up to 6C+. Finger not good.
Sat- pissed off with finger so started the mission to follow the way of the Barrows.
       Beastmaker session repeaters on back 3, middle 2 and back two (hard). Gained flapper no. 1.
       Aerocap- 20mins continuous climbing in a mildly pumped (very at times) state. 10 mins off. repeat x3. This got me very hot, very pumped at times, not too bored due to having people     to talk to and another flapper so my hands are looking like they have been minced.
Sun- bike for an hour.

A week of up and downs mentally due to my finger which is worse than i thought. Cant pull on anything vaguely hard, was pretty pissed off with it Friday and forced myself to man up on sat and do something. I felt better for it afterwards.
Spent last night totally revamping my training plan to base the next 5-8 weeks on very base level endurance (aero and an- cap) as i can do this with a fucked finger. Also adding more conditioning stuff and some weights.
I may look back on the whole injury thing as a blessing in disguise as its going to force me to deal with all my weaknesses.

Can anyone direct me to a good metronome shop and which knee pads are the best to get.

[T_B]

Go Gav!

You could always try and loose some weight too  That'll help the psyche. Drink spirits and mixers, rather than beer+wine

[gme]

I was thinking the opposite. Drinking even more beer than normal until my finger gets better.