[tomtom]

M: Crag X to work on Jericho Road... met up with Plattsy and had a good session. Got to matching the slopey rail a few times, and made it (twice) to dropping down into the RH lower pinch thing. Had some fun trying the pinch holds towards the end of the session and surprised myself from going from "impossible to pull on" to pull on in a fashion over a few efforts..

T:

W:

Th: Back to CragX in the morning... I was super keen when I left the house but I was moving like lead. One of those sessions where I had no bounce or flow if that makes sense.. Managed to match the rail twice - managed to catch the drop down pinch once (somehow) on this effort.. Led to me questioning how to do the next moves through to the final hold - and receiving lots of advice in a beta thread... (thanks all)



Fr:

Sa: Back to X to work out how to do the part post rail. This time, instead of trying to climb up there, I just used the ladder to get to the upper stages, and eventually worked out a tall persons method. It wasnt all over there as I then had to come up with a way to match the final flake - which for me seems easiest getting it first with my right (not how many people do it...).



So - I now have the problem in overlapping sections - and had a good rest and one burn - that got me to the rail, but I was flat out. Tried a couple more times, but had used too much energy working out these earlier sections. Its now all worked out - so just needs good conditions and decent fitness from me and it should go!

Su: Harmers - met up with Andy Popp and had some fun working his new projects. Only really meant to go and have a potter and catch up, but ended up being a decent session

Well thats it - and I'm off to Oz on Monday/Tuesday for 10 days, so I'll get no climbing done in the next week at least...

[mr chaz]

Decent week of training. No outdoor climbing with my finals looming - Mon and Tuesday next week, I have a bad feeling about them  (i.e. I'm a lazy fucker and haven't been revising). Still, only myself to blame for that one...

M. 20 mins campussing, 20 mins 40 degree, rest of time working problems.
T. Fingerboard - max hangs and levers
W. Fingerboard - same again
T. Very easy session at the wall, making up some problems.
F. New yellows (V6 and up), managed a few of them. Decent session, lots of power and less fingery.
S. Rest
S. Rest

[fried]

Cheers TT.

Excellent week 

Mon - Cuisiniere. I usually come back disappointed from here, but despite the 25° heat I managed to pick off a good few reds. Had a look at La Superbe, flashed up to the dyno, but a miss doesn't look appealing, a spot neeeded. Went to look at Moondance, again a spot needed, twisted my ankle from 6 inches up which was a bad sign, ( fortunately it only started hurting when I got home, and was O.K within 24h). Picked off some more reds.

T - rest
W - BM session, good since I've not done any sessions since the weather improved. 45mins felt good.
Th - rest
Fri - Temperature drops, decide to go to 91.1. Pick off some reds that have had me beat for a long time. Finish Gratitude; one of the best problems I've ever done. Have a few goes at Cure-dents but after a couple of high falls decide to leave it, I'll be back for this one, excellent line.

Go over to Sabots, and after a few goes get Le Porte à faux which I've been trying for ages, love this problem. Climb to my finger can't take anymore crimping on grattons, have a go at La Narine and do it second go. Very easy for the grade. A nice little haul of good 5+ problems.

S - Rest
Su - Rocher du Potala, bimble about doing some blues/ oranges wanted to do more but it's hot and I'm climbed out.

Feeling much more confident at red circuit level. Back in love with my whites.

Did some shoulder stretches everyday. Weight down to 74.9kg yesterday.

[nai]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

Goals:

Spring - HFC & Short Chimes ((+ Why Me?, Let The Tripe Increase, Stone The Loach) and now The Sissy too).
Summer - Body Machine & Ext, Cornices?
Autumn - Raindogs, Full Chimes.

M - rest
T - Rubicon, HFC, 3 attempts, fall once going for the gaston and twice trying to move off it.  It's chewing my finger up again so have a hissy fit (most;y because I can't do it) and strip it.  I don't like this route since the breakage, the nottom used to climb really nicely but is now horriable, loathe to walk away having put so much into it and come so close.  Have two goes up the Sissy, find it hard but do all bar one move and at only nine moves plus a clip for the hard bit it suddenly has my atttention
w- rest
Th - Rubicon again. Feeling quite tired and unenthused, 3 goes up The Sissy, manage to get Haydn's beta to work and do all the moves and a few links, still hard but feasible.  Umm and ahh but decide skin isn't good enough and not worth risking further damage so call it a day early.
F - rest
S Malham - Raindogs - did ok I think - all the moves, some short links between the bolts although had hoped to get longer ones done, really struggled with the clipping positions, need to work on that and remembering the feet a bit better next time.  But overall encouraging, definitely a goer, just might need to work on the PE a bit.

S - Felt tired and stiff, heading for Two Tier all the way to the weir then went to Embankment, renewed hostilities with Stone the Loach. Got pumped on the 6b warm up, could barely do a move on StL getting the clips in then on first redpoint raced through the crux to the last hard move where I missed a foothold; 2nd go was rubbish (but only against the standard of the newly raised bar); 3rd go through crux but hand slipped off big pinch despite being fairly fresh; fourth go to last hard move again and with the string closing around the neck of the bag I made a schoolboy error moving a hand before a foot and fell, got straight back on and climbed to the top swearing, muttering and generally berating myself.

[nai]

twisted my ankle from 6 inches up which was a bad sign

In the long distant past before pads existed I saw someone break their ankle falling from 6 inches at Isatis, landed on a root and somehow it just snapped.

Sounds like a fun week otherwise, good effort

[the_dom]

Mon: 500 kettlebell swings, 30 shoulder presses and 30 TGUs with a 24 kg kettlebell
Tues: 40 min trail run
Wed: AM: hangboard - max one arms & mobility; PM: bouldering - short session as a result of a split tip
Thurs: 500 kettlebell swings, 30 shoulder presses and 30 TGUs with a 24 kg kettlebell
Friday: AM: hangboard - max one arms & mobility; PM: 40 min trail run
Sat: AM surf, PM hangboard - max hangs and repeaters
Sun: bouldering - worked, and did, the moves on a 7C+ - felt solid, should go in a session or two. Followed by hangboard - max one arms when I got home.

Solid training week, but I'm a little heavy and definitely feeling lack of climbing time.

[kelvin]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

Looking at that week, I'm sure you can be forgiven.

[tomtom]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

Looking at that week, I'm sure you can be forgiven.

I dunno... THREE rest days....

[shark]

11.3-5

M.
T.Systems board. Session at lunchtime then early eve. Better on crimp moves. Eve did 136 on screw on feet (first time?) then some 4 goes at 15 move PE laddering up and down
W.Back to Burns Unit. They are concerned about a patch on the side of my middle finger that isnt healing properly. They measured up so they can make a compression glove to prevent excessive scarring and said I should keep it of strong sunlight for 6 months
T.
F.
S. Raven Tor. Met Stacked Sam there. Cool temps. Took advantage of a top rope on Sardine. Climbed to crux and fell off. Then couldnt even dog it  lowered off. Had another go after a while and didnt even get across the low traverse    Partnered Sam off with Theo and headed to the pub to partially immerse my sorrows.
S. PM Drawn out fingerboard session whilst reading papers . Major improvement over last Sunday's session but still some way to go

Weight still low which is one positive and would be good if I got it lower still. Was hoping to be fully recovered this week but now realise I am going to have to deal with consequences for a few more weeks. Skin on hand is very sensitive with blood blisters and normal blisters appearing for no apparent reason. Its going to be a real grind to work my way back to full strength and fitness.   

[Boredboy]

You can do it dude!

[shark]

You can do it dude!

Thanks bud

[tomtom]

Fancy some lime puntering when I'm back from Oz?

[shark]

Fancy some lime puntering when I'm back from Oz?

Yes - I'd like to have another go at Jericho Road

[lagerstarfish]

Have a few goes at Cure-dents but after a couple of high falls decide to leave it, I'll be back for this one, excellent line.

I've always liked it. I've probably done it a dozen or so times over the last 25 years and have felt bloody brilliant each time.

[andy popp]

Goals: projects, some other bonus stuff maybe.

M: Was meant to be a rest day as I'd trained Sunday and was planning to train Tuesday but the weather was nice and I was feeling restless. Nipped to Pex, warmed up and then ran through a handful of problems up to V5/6. My right shoulder was quite sore in the evening, from catching a dyno I think. Some therabandy type stuff.
T: shoulder definitely sore, more therabandy. Manage to squish knuckle/tip of middle left finger in the door. But training on the board goes OK - definitely a touch stronger than the last two weeks.
W: out at a workshop in Wolverhampton. Long day.
T: light shoulder stuff, repeaters on the fingerboard in the late afternoon. Even more than on the board there's a marked improvement
F: light shoulder stuff
S: Nowt
S: Harmers project. After various false starts I managed to make a big link on the upper half, doing most of it ... just. Slightly alarmed at the thought of highballing this. TT arrives and we start trying the start. Tom discovers he can completely lank past the crux ( sorry Tom) from a better lower foothold. I try it and come up about 1cm short, at the most. Multiple goes and tinkering with methods doesn't lead to any improvement. But I feel encouraged; perhaps fresher and with stiffer shoes I might be able to find the extra millimetres I need. A long session in the end and I feel a bit battered afterwards.

Pretty good week; the next two are busy (guests, flying trip to Copenhagen) so activity will be curtailed but determined to manage something.

[kelvin]

Thanks Tom

Good effort Shark - you may be frustrated but I'm guessing everyone reading this is suitably impressed. Keep it up fella.

An interesting week for me, learnt lots and finished with a tweaked wrist.

Mon - Rest
Tue - Foot on campus session. Finally got the rails back up at the wall, had to beg them to put a foothold on for me that was off to the left and too high but still psyched to have a session. No small rails up yet, so had to use the medium Metolius and was unsure of what rest time to use between sets. 4 sets of 30sec on 90sec off (13 moves) x 7. 5min rest between sets. Failed on the last two goes by 5 and 6 sec respectively.
Wed - Leading. Had a play on the new routes by Alex Mason. Was battered from work and the session the day before, took a few falls, failed on lots but it was good to see Eric trying hard on 6c just two days after his seventh chemo session.
Thu - Yoga. Feeling like I'm making progress here, guess I started around September, so it's took a while.
Fri - Drive Wales.
Sat - Main Cliff, Gogarth. Cruised up a HVS until I got to some holds that my wrist couldn't negotiate, left it too late to downclimb to the rest 3m below and peeled off. Biggest fall yet, an easy 10m. Then went on Scavenger, mate went the wrong way, wrist was struggling after the last climb and couldn't pull hard on an overhanging bit with no feet, eventually scrambled through by pulling on a draw - bailed. Not the place to be fuckin' about. 
Sun - Penmaen Head. Wrist was swollen and tender, did a 5 and then quit. Couldn't weight the right hand. Belayed Jordon for a few hours and headed home.

Positives -

Content with the foot on work, much better than expected after two months off. Powered out but also slightly pumped, low end of ancap.
Started brightly at Gogarth, felt really comfortable on steep rock for the first time ever. No pump at all until I had to fart around because of the wrist.
Happy above my gear and the fall just didn't register - fall practice has been working well.

Negatives -

Now I don't get pumped, I actually take in what's happening and I'm only just learning how badly my wrist works. Frustrating as hell. Spent a few seconds screaming and kicking the rock Ondra style yesterday 
Work is busy at the moment and that's messing climbing about. Permanently tired.

Only just realising that I actually need to work out different sequences out for my right wrist - fine on sport or bouldering but not so good when trying to onsight trad routes. I think before, when I was always pumped and stressed that I just assumed I wasn't strong enough but it's not that. I need two sets of moves, one for my right side and one for my left. The obvious move is there but often not open to me and yesterday after falling, I ended up doing a ridiculous layback to go past the bit I was struggling on.
So decided to put the trad gear away for a while, until I know how to climb instinctively. It's not right heading up multipitch climbs when it's quite possible that there'll be a stopper move, in terms of, it'll take me a while to work out a way round it.

Psyched by Gogarth main cliff  Gonna head to Spain, work out how to get round my wrist issues and get back there. Quite the place.

[T_B]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

Maybe too much by the sounds of Sunday? I could never do 4 out of 7 days on Peak Limestone!

[T_B]

85.9Kg (creeping up  )

M - Foundry lunch. Circuits. Didn't time the rests, but just did a lot of 30-move volume in an hour.
T -
W - Rowter Rocks. Decided the cool temps meant a final grit fling, so went to check out Domes Sitter at Rowter. Did the stand up and fell off slapping the top of the sitter once. Psyched on such a cool problem. Also had a brief play on Pink Lady.
T - Foundry lunch. Repeaters. Managed 2 x 6 x 7 front 3 and 2 x 4 x 7 back 3. Totally rubbish on bottom rungs of the BM. Did some locks and pull ups. Good session.
F - School lunch. Decided that training needs to take precedent over climbing this week, so boulder. Surprised to feel really good on the 50 degree, repeating stuff up to 7A+ and doing well on a 7C. Finish with 5 x reps of AnCap circuit. Tired.
S - Head out at 6pm to meet Dave and Cofe at Burb N. Warm up in amazing cold windy conditions. 7pm arrive at Sheep Shifter, Cave Dale. They've been on it before so know the beta. Cofe leads the send train. It's 7.45pm. I decide to mission it across to Rowter. 8.30 back on Domes Sitter. 8.45pm it's in the bag. Get carried away and run back to car, drive up to Stanton parking and run into Brad's Wall with one pad. Arrive sweating profusely. No wind and it feels about 20 degrees. Have a few goes but obvious that the holds are too small, fingers too sweaty and the top too slopey. Beautiful wall/rock - will be back next winter. Walk out and back at car for 9.30.

Good training week, good climbing week (though failed to open my Mecca account). Off to N Wales for Whitsun, so will do another f/board session, bouldering and AnCap. Main goals are Lou Ferrino and Hatchatrocity.

[T_B]

Fancy some lime puntering when I'm back from Oz?

You should check out Sheep Shifter at Cave Dale. 7B. Really nice.

[Muenchener]

STG: Go climbing
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine
            Muscle Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer),  Marmolada south face (Vinatzer Messner)

Fingers still feeling tweaked/vulnerable, and busy with family & work stuff, so another week of taking it pretty easy.

M: Bike to work 25km
T: Bike to work 25km
W:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. 7b circuit project: worked out a reliable & repeatable sequence for the crux that is ok as move one but not - yet - as move 22.
F: Knee physio, kettlebells, core
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. The stopper move on the proj is still a stopper move.
S: Ammergau : evening hillwalk as alpine approach training. 745 metres ascent in 1 hour 10 minutes; not bad considering there was a kilometre flat stretch in the middle. Light rucksack though, without the gratuitous extra water bottles I normally carry for this sort of thing.

[shark]

Fancy some lime puntering when I'm back from Oz?

You should check out Sheep Shifter at Cave Dale. 7B. Really nice.

Id be keen to go on that too

[shark]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

No apology required. Given that you failed on everything I'd still classify it all as training...

[tomtom]

Fancy some lime puntering when I'm back from Oz?

You should check out Sheep Shifter at Cave Dale. 7B. Really nice.

Id be keen to go on that too

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/182-cave-dale#.VVmUi5dVhBc

[nai]

I have done no training this week, this post contains only actual rock climbing 

Given that you failed on everything I'd still classify it all as training...

Oof.  Your hand's clearly improving if you can twist the knife like that.

[iain]

Was hoping to be fully recovered this week

Doctor says: It'll be 4-6 weeks before you don't need bandages and ... yada yada yada
Shark hears: I'll be fine in 4 weeks
Shark thinks: I'll do it in 3!

I am going to try to curb my impatience ‘going forward’