IFSC 2015 Thread (Read 122836 times)

jwi · June 19, 2015, 04:29:33 pm

According to McColl's facebook he's not going to do the rounds after china due to “scheduling conflicts” (=IFSC is nice and all, but Ninja Warrior brings food to the table?). He's doing the lead comps though....

Moo · June 19, 2015, 07:00:05 pm

Yeah but everyone thinks he's a wanker ............................................... that I know anyway.

Pako · June 21, 2015, 05:00:04 am

That chinese commentator was quite good. Sad days about Dmitry, but Jan was a champ.

Simon W · June 21, 2015, 09:46:52 am

Finals start in 15mins, link looking like it might be pretty much unwatchable though

Pako · June 21, 2015, 10:36:51 am

Holy fuck the finals stream is abysmal.

Baldy · June 21, 2015, 10:42:27 am

completely unwatchable

Simon W · June 21, 2015, 10:52:05 am

Replay it is then, might go climbing

TheTwig · June 21, 2015, 06:24:40 pm

Quality of the stream absolutely ruined the finals. The semi's were at least watchable.

A real shame as there was some really decent climbing. Unfortunately the actual stream itself was shit, often heavily pixellated, lagging and skipping out whole 10-15 second sections. Judging was pretty poor, I think 2 climbers had to be brought back to climb M1 as they only realised they hadn't 'matched' the start after they had topped the problem and walked off! Likewise some weird problem when Shauna was climbing F2. Camerawork was also pretty dreadful. Multiple times a climber was just about to flash the problem, or have a succesful attempt, and the camera would zoom in to someone on the starting moves of another climb. Sad to say but I think the finals are actually getting worse over time!?!

Surely there is enough money in climbing for the IFSC to stage a professional event with good camerawork, commentary and tech support!? If I was 'joe public' I would have switched off in the first 5 minutes.

Fiend · June 22, 2015, 03:20:38 pm

Replay is fucked too. Pity as the problems looked entertaining.

fatneck · June 22, 2015, 03:31:20 pm

Quote

Replay is fucked too

Balls. Had watched the semis up to the footage of Shauna on F2 not being great but was quite looking forward to seeing the final and wowseanmccallwow winning...

Richie Crouch · June 23, 2015, 07:32:14 am

It's looking like a walk in the park to Noguchi this year. Hope shauna can keep picking it up and make a good challenge for 2nd (especially with stohr and puccio out).

The men's has been well entertaining too and nice to see Hori back crushing again.

Durbs · June 23, 2015, 09:05:46 am

Bit of a mixed bag...

Yays:
The routes looked good, nice split of results
M1/F1 & M2/F2 next to each other so no need for split screen or camera switching. More like this please

Nays:
Streaming (I blame China)
Lack of scoreboard

The commentator, language barriers aside, was ok. A couple of cringe moments ("he looks like a girl!" For Dimitri's hair...).

No Jule? Shame Shauna doesn't seem to be on tip top form. Looks strong but seems to not be reading routes as well as last year. Akiyo has this wrapped up really.

Adam doesn't look to be the threat many thought he would be, Jan had a shocker, his height a disadvantage this round?
Men's is pretty wide open...

I was chatting with the Mrs and we both agreed that this year the comps just aren't quite as compelling to watch. Last season we were glued to the screens, this time we're wandering in and out, reading books, checking Facebook... Not sure why this is though; the comps have been close and we'll set, Shauna's providing some home interest... There were technical issues last year, but they grate more this time round. Might just be the commentary which doesn't quite add to the psyche.
Appreciate this is just criticism, rather than constructive crit but wondered if we were alone in this?

a dense loner · June 23, 2015, 09:23:04 am

No it's fuckin shit. If it's not sorted itself out this will be the last yr I watch it

fatneck · June 23, 2015, 10:21:46 am

Quote

I was chatting with the Mrs and we both agreed that this year the comps just aren't quite as compelling to watch. Last season we were glued to the screens, this time we're wandering in and out, reading books, checking Facebook... Not sure why this is though; the comps have been close and we'll set, Shauna's providing some home interest... There were technical issues last year, but they grate more this time round. Might just be the commentary which doesn't quite add to the psyche.
Appreciate this is just criticism, rather than constructive crit but wondered if we were alone in this?

Same here! It's weird as the mens comp seems more open this year which should make it more watchable. Also, I appreciate there are internet issues in China but the coverage was just awful and I don't understand why they upload the unwatchable footage rather than record it and put up a watchable version after the event...

andymarshll · June 23, 2015, 10:45:59 am

I remember in the pre-streaming days having to wait a couple of days for the IFSC peeps to get back to europe from chinese comps to upload the video. I think the video uploads to youtube for posterity as it streams (?) so any breaks/issues in the stream are reflected by skipping and horrible pixelation in replay later. I'm hoping that when they get back they'll be able to put up a good one, I expect it'd have to wait till after next weekend anyway. I'm assuming that chinas internet is too inconsistent to try and upload 3+ hours of hi(ish) def video.

Pako · June 23, 2015, 11:27:07 am

On the plus side the routes looked quite nice for all. Semis problems were a bit fucked with about 15 people sending everything, but finals were good. I really hope that the Russian team can regain their past glory

jwi · June 23, 2015, 04:58:32 pm

Quote from: a dense loner on June 23, 2015, 09:23:04 am

No it's fuckin shit. If it's not sorted itself out this will be the last yr I watch it

+1

Pako · June 25, 2015, 08:46:29 am

Was just reading on the OnBouldering fb how they aren't allowed by the IFSC to film semis or finals this year. Fucking rubbish. The videos that OnBouldering make are miles ahead of the official ifsc videos, yet the IFSC forces us to watch their shitty official videos? I mean if you can't make the stream good, just be decent and let someone who knows what they are doing do it. pure rubbish

ohhamburgers · June 25, 2015, 10:19:00 am

This is a reuploaded and hopefully watchable replay of the finals, climbing starts at 38 minutes in:

Fingers crossed that the next comp in Haiyang is better!

Doug · June 25, 2015, 01:33:43 pm

Quote from: Pako on June 25, 2015, 08:46:29 am

Was just reading on the OnBouldering fb how they aren't allowed by the IFSC to film semis or finals this year.

Whereabouts did you see that? I couldn't find it and am interested in the reasons why.

I don't watch the qualifiers or semis, and find OnBouldering's highlights videos entertaining and complimentary to the whole process. They keep up my interest levels and they provide exposure to climbers who don't make finals that I wouldn't otherwise see. It's not as if they're offering a competing live stream or (as far as I'm aware) using official IFSC footage.

I wonder if the same restrictions apply to Udo Neumann?

mr__j5 · June 25, 2015, 02:37:52 pm

Quote from: Doug on June 25, 2015, 01:33:43 pm

I wonder if the same restrictions apply to Udo Neumann?

They should do really, as the only reason that I think of that makes sense is that they are protecting their media rights, which is what any sporting event promoter should be doing.

fatneck · June 26, 2015, 09:53:18 am

Barring any unexpected lower order crushing, it looks like Leah made semis! Akiyo flashed everything bar F3 and Shauna through in second with SBC qualifying too...

Durbs · June 26, 2015, 10:04:14 am

From those results - Female quali's must've been nails! 2 tops for a spot

fatneck · June 26, 2015, 10:18:38 am

Which just goes to show how much of a beast Akiyo is!

Pako · June 26, 2015, 01:10:46 pm

If you go on the OnBouldering facebook page you can see posts detailing it on the left hand side where people post to the page, you just have to click show more comments on the first post.

Dmitry looks to be going well in qualis, Jan did his classic qualify super low, who knows how he will go this time. Apparently it is humid and hot there, not too nice. Also, if the IFSC did a good job at filming their shit, then it would be perfectly logical to not let others film. It's understandable that it is difficult to get good filming on a low budget, but at least let others get good footage for us until the IFSC gets more funds and can pay for good footage. Or maybe the IFSC could pay OnBouldering to film, I mean the guy travels around the whole world just to film world cups...