UKBouldering.com

To retire a dropped cam or not? (Read 8742 times)

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3843
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#25 Re: To retire a dropped cam or not?
April 14, 2015, 11:23:24 pm
Quote
Do you lot ever actually get out in the real world or are you safe and sound in a padded cell?

I get out a lot in the real world, but I rarely take a test rig or a load cell with me. Having done lots of testing in the lab, I know it's very common for metal items to show no problems at one load but suddenly fail at less than double that load. That's the nature of the metals used in climbing gear.

Ive fallen on a fixed cam, which looked pretty new and OK. It totally failed when i fell about 10-15 feet above it, 80 - 100 feet above the deck. I know in situ gear is a bit of a seperate issue, but it 'looked' better than stuff you often see on folks' harnesses. You can never quite tell.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11478
  • Karma: +702/-22
#26 Re: To retire a dropped cam or not?
April 15, 2015, 10:29:10 am
Failed as in snapped rather than blew presumably? Scary stuff! I was soloing The Roaches with Andi T once, when he got a bit nervous and grabbed an in-situ cam. It promptly slid down the crack a foot and he got a lot more nervous...

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2118
  • Karma: +85/-1
#27 Re: To retire a dropped cam or not?
April 15, 2015, 11:22:01 am
Do DMM still test stuff to destruction?

I'd retire it (excuse for shiney new kit) then send it to DMM and find out what it fails at, then we can see who out of Fultonius and JB is right......

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11478
  • Karma: +702/-22
#28 Re: To retire a dropped cam or not?
April 15, 2015, 12:42:41 pm
Yes they do. I haven't said it'll be damaged, only that you can't tell. It might well be fine, though the sling will have lost strength over time. Climbing is all about acceptance of risk so if JR is happy with a bit more...

Ally Smith

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 328
  • Karma: +16/-0
#29 Re: To retire a dropped cam or not?
April 15, 2015, 02:54:17 pm
bin it.if in the slightest bit of doubt; sell it on eBay bin it.

Fixed that for you

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2978
  • Karma: +336/-2
#30 Re: To retire a dropped cam or not?
April 15, 2015, 03:03:38 pm
Totem cams are very good...

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal