[Greg C]

Done a few probable new problems on Garheugh Point. The best of which are the following:

Flip the Bird (7B+) - The obvious crack in the right side of the bulging south facing wall just north of the main blocks.



Broken Obelisk (7C) - The superb inverted obelisk/column 200m further north along the coast.



Also did a few other bits including a really good and obvious arete between the two previous problems, although this broke shortly after I initially climbed it. Probably still go, but I didn't try it again after it broke. I ripped back the big wild rose bush in front of the Long Slab, this has opened up a few more good easy slab problems.

[Nike Air]

Nice work Greg!

[Greg C]

Thanks Jordan. Some good problems round these parts. Did Dan's new 7C+ (Wacke Races) as well - another total classic.

[a dense loner]

Nice probs Greg!

[Fiend]

Wacke Races is a great name.

[davej]

Nice one Greg. Great spot with some great sea fishing.

[SA Chris]

Is it officially Garheugh Point or Port?

I've seen both?

Anyway, looks good Greg, good effort!

[Greg C]

Is it officially Garheugh Point or Port?

I've seen both?

You're right, on the map it is marked as 'Port', however 'Point' feels more factually accurate when you're there. Considering this place has been in three guidebooks it really is yet to be described as well or concisely as it deserves.

[Fiend]

Garheugh Bay, definitely.

[Fiend]

Nice probs btw. Is Flip The Bird the low start to Two Tyred E3 6a that gains the central crack off the block?

[Greg C]

Could be, but I've no idea. It's on the right side of the crag. The wall above the break looked good but filthy and covered in plants. Its also noway 6a off the blocks - still 6b/c in old money - I'm guessing at that grade they got a leg up to the break. The start off the deck is very morpho, i.e. if you are really tall it wouldn't be much harder than off the block, if you were much shorter than me it would be impossible.

[Greg C]

Or maybe stacked 'Two Tyres' to get the break, there's plenty on the beach.

[Fiend]

I think that is where the name came from.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=14691 is the only photo I can find, I am pretty sure Two Tyred is the one just right of the cocoon, going up to that flat ledge in the niche. Can I retrospectively have an E3 6c tick then?

[davej]

Did you checkout the barrel buttress??

[Greg C]

Hey Dave, you mean the one by the road? If so yes, it was wet though. An impressive feature.

[davej]

Hi Greg that's the one great looking line !

[rodma]

Good work

I only went down there once, tennish years ago and was totally let down, but it didn't look anything like that. I either didn't drive gear enough or drive past it.

[Stewart]

I was a bit disappointed when I saw this thread, I had my eye on the obelisk line since boulder hunting while injured but wrist surgery and first baby coming 6 weeks ago meant i never got a chance to try it.

Managed to get down for a few hours last night and repeated flip the bird pretty quick, great problem, seemed very soft at 7b+ but as you say it's pretty morpho and I'm 6'. Also difficult to judge grades when coming back from injury.

Anyway feeling flushed with success i went to try your new 7C and failed miserably to get anywhere on it so probably just as well someone else got it done. The start is hard but those crimps in the middle are not gonna happen for me anytime soon! They're pretty damn sharp as well! Messed around and think i could do it, from a stand anyway, using totally different beta and doing it as a compression problem which would be pretty cool.

Is the other prow you're referring to that broke this one?


https://www.dropbox.com/s/3lbnuo4k7r3t01y/2015-04-09%2007.50.44.jpg?dl=0
I think Garheugh is a cracking bouldering venue, some great problems - some total sandbag grading right enough.

[SA Chris]

Link is to photo of said baby? Congratulations btw.

[Stewart]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27296482@N02/17060843376/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27296482@N02/17060843376/





of ffs why can i not post pictures on the internet properly yet. I'll be getting my son to teach me at this rate. and why can't i edit my previous post?

[andy popp]

There is a limited window of time for editing posts, though I'm not sure how long it is. An hour maybe?

[Greg C]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27296482@N02/17060843376/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27296482@N02/17060843376/





of ffs why can i not post pictures on the internet properly yet. I'll be getting my son to teach me at this rate. and why can't i edit my previous post?

Yes that's the problem I did where a the side pull on the arete broke. Shame as it was good.

Sorry for pinching your line round the corner. Personally I didn't think it was sharp, those crimps are just small. Your right about 'Flip the Bird' though- due to its morpho style I reckon a hyphenated grade of 7A-7B probably gives a more accurate representation of difficulty.

[iwasmexican]

stuff all looks good, have you got any photos/ general (or even vague descriptions) of dans stuff out there as well? keen to have a look at some point

[slackline]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27296482@N02/17060843376/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27296482@N02/17060843376/





of ffs why can i not post pictures on the internet properly yet.

Because you are posting the URL to the Flickr web-page where the picture is, rather than the URL of the picture itself.

Have a read of UKB Wiki : HowTo Embed Pictures to UK Bouldering - Backlinking Flickr the Easy Way which should help.

[Stewart]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27296482@N02/17060843376/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27296482@N02/17060843376/





of ffs why can i not post pictures on the internet properly yet.

Because you are posting the URL to the Flickr web-page where the picture is, rather than the URL of the picture itself.

Have a read of UKB Wiki : HowTo Embed Pictures to UK Bouldering - Backlinking Flickr the Easy Way which should help.

VIDEO0178_0000034415 by Stingraypoindexter, on Flickr