[shark]

Actual 11.5-9 (Target: 11.5-7)
Target this week 11.5-7 again

M. PM. Systems board. Strong on the crimps and did a slightly harder variation of my benchmark/warmup problem for first time. Tried PE routine but poor performance compared to when last did it 10 days before
T. Tor. Just me and Pip. Although hailing not too much wind and ok to climb with rests taken back in the car to warm up. Weedkiller mainly dry. Worked on finishing moves of Perverse Reverse. Think I have a better new sequence but didnt actually do one of the moves. Went on start at end of sess and got thru first half twice. Fingers in particular and to a lesser extent core noticeably improved.
W.
T.AM Morning. Disappointing set of max weighted hangs - no gains - again    PM Decided to have another go  and got good scores on crimps and upped weight on chisel by 2.5kg.  1x deadlift 135kg
F. Lunch Systems board Still strong on crimps. Tried the AnCap routine. Big improvement on tues equalling PB. PM AeroCap 2 x 20/10 = 240moves
S. Noon. FB warmup before left. Tor Warm and breezy. Lots there. Worked on end of Per Rev. In end found rather than using a heel toe to do last hard move to a finger edge discovered it was easier to do it toe down on the jug. Then linked that final section but on final bit with heel/toe locked in my knee made a disconcerting crunching sound and lower leg seemed to move a notch anti-clockwise. No pain but leg felt very peculiar so decided to pack up which was a shame as still fresh and possibly coulld have done the whole thing. Took a diversion to look at Odins Cave/Darkroom on way back.
S. Hobbling 

As stated last week decided to have time off from Oak. Had a good start to the week losing weight and getting some decent training in but then it started to unravel midweek onwards with social stuff and then popping my knee on Saturday. Have booked to go back to Malham on tuesday but it is 50/50 whether my knee will be up to it. Will see if I can get a physio to look at it tomorrow 

[Muenchener]

Sorry to hear about the knee Shark

STG: Be able to breathe, cough, move etc without ribs hurting Pretty much there. I had feared it might take much longer.
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
      Beastmaker 5A routine
      Muscle-Up
      Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:
T: Bike to work 25km
W:
T:   Wall, Thalkirchen. A better attempt at a limit bouldering session than Sunday. Chest still sore, but I can more or less move normally again on most things.
F:
S: First attempt at a spring bike ride in the woods. Still lots of icy patches, which I very much don't enjoy on skinny cyclocross tyres, but still good to be outside.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Working 7b circuit project. Did all moves and some decent links, including through the technical crux. Which is moves four to seven though, so still a bit of work to do.

February was a fiasco: a week sick, a disastrous family holiday, a week injured. March is starting to show glimmers of improvement.

[tomtom]

Yes - doesnt sound great about the knee Shark

A summary of my week is well described by the Top Gun quote: "Your mind is writing cheques that your body can't cash".....

M: Work

T: Work

We: Stopped off at Gardoms on the way back to Manchester - met up with Nai.. It was bloody windy - we aimed to meet at North, and I was about 10 min earlier than Nai, didnt bother trying to warm up (grim in the wind) just sheltered and waited... At Nai's suggestion we went along and into the woods where things were better. After a bad warm up on pogo's block we moved on to Perfect Day... It probably suits my height and not Nai's - so I made progress and reached the first crimp but had problems matching - Nai had problems getting to the crimp.. we sacked it off and had a 30 min play on the kidney stone on the way back.

Th: Stuff

Fr: Secret Garden with Lagers. Good session - I was shit, had no skin, but enjoyable.. a couple of half decent attempts at beach ball (one cut short by lagers laughing at my elbows wobbling) but we both had a good tussle with the 6C sit problem to the right of the crack - Some nice balancy moves. I wore through a tip in the little finger and split my left index in a new place...

Sa: Gardening...

Su: Brownstones c.3pm after the rain had gone. Really nice conditions - most stuff dry!! Got pissed off on Dezertion again - opened up the little finger split - and stopped when I tore a big flapper right in the joint of my right index.. I suppose I was making progress but it feels like an odd problem... Moved on to groundhog - and spent ages trying to find the right smudge to get my lf on.. then sought some video beta and saw how GCW lanked it from a lower but positive foot edge (I think we're the same height) - made more progress (tickled the high LH hold twice) but then frustratingly ran out of beans (and opened up a new hole on my LH index)...

Rock 3: Skin 0

[gme]

Mon - school. 5th day on so not longest session. All but one move done on target.
Tues- f**ked. Couldn't have climbed stairs. Drinking in evening.
Wed,Thursday fri - Holland with work. Drink work eat repeat.
sat- shit session on moon board. Really tired.
Sun moon board- still not firing but better session. Feel a bit hurty though.

week started really well and I was pretty much at my best for the year. Went down hill from there due to work, food, drink, travel and more drink.
Unfortunately this week will be similar as I goto Cham skiing, eating and drinking for 4 days with clients. Then the week after is a two day conference.
good news is I am pissed off with having to miss climbing which means my psyche is high.

Lots of aches and pains in fingers and knee this week but I think it's to do with exhaustion.

[webbo]

Mon. Feel shit cold still not shifting.
Tue. Docs due to pains round my diaphragm. No chest infection but probably had one last week.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board did a couple of things before grinding to a halt. Not the best of sessions.
Fri. Bike one hour various pains when I tried to breath hard.
Sat. North York moors. Duck stones and Round crag did things up to 6c failed around a couple of harder things. First time out in 8 months also walked more I've done in months. Felt really shit at first what with sore lungs and bad feet but felt better as the day went on.
Battered when I got home.
Sun. A bit stiff. Board steady session followed by dead hanging. I was going to go for a ride but ended up cleaning out gutters and drains.

[kelvin]

Cheers for starting this Shark, hope that knee's not serious. I have an MRI on my left knee booked for Friday morning - fingers crossed I don't need an op before Spain.

STG - Sort breathing before April trip to Spain.
MTG - Sort momentum stuff.
LTG - 6 months in Spain to learn to climb better.

Mon - Aeropower. Foot on, biggest campus rung. 1 min on, 1 min off x 5. 3 sets with 10 min rest between each set. Failed on last two reps by 8sec and 16sec.

Tue - Routes. Rainbowing, working on two feet on, plus breathing. 90 min session, so half of that climbing.

Wed - Routes, focus on breathing. Led about 17 routes of 5+/6a and tried an Alex Mason 6b+ on the comp wall that he felt he undergraded in hindsight - psyched for this. The first crux is at the third clip and I couldn't even managed the move but it's maybe the first time I've looked at an indoor problem and thought yeah, I'd like to climb that. All I can do is try...

Thu - Yoga class

Fri - Big Rock. Aerocap auto belay session. Warm up on maybe 5 laps then - 2 x 20 min with a couple of minute break to tape ankle. 30 min rest and then 25 min till little fingers blistered. Breathing focused.

Sat - Nottingham Climbing Depot. Pretty much all the V0/1/2 problems, working on the momentum thing. Then headed to Rivelin, had a mind to solo a nice E1 slab but it was way windier there than I'd imagined. So chilled with mates further down the crag, as I hadn't bothered to take my harness. Tried to find other mates in the quarries but I couldn't find them :-( They did a fair few routes there, all freshly cleaned and were raving about the quality.

Sun - Sat at Curbar and the rain came in. Bailed to Pinnacle, did about 7 laps at 5+, a few easy boulder problems and caught up with people. More like active rest.

Bailed on outside yesterday, had little psyche for it and was proper tired from the autobelay session - so went to the Depot and did some momentum stuff instead. Head is in 'sort breathing' mode now I know it's a real issue, so mostly this week it's been aerocap and I think I'm starting to make progress with it but only if I'm more vocal with it, then I can hear myself stop. Sounding like Ondra whilst rainbowing is a bit pathetic, however it does seem to help.

This week coming - more ropes, maybe Tremadog if it's dry and hopefully some scrambling/soloing. We'll see.

[blamo]

STG: figure out LTG
MTG: Really short 8b/b+ sport climb

Monday: AM core work, PM 6 mile run and stretching

Tuesday: AM campus session, PM max. hangs, some weights and stretching

Wednesday: AM max. hangs, PM repeater hangs, some weights and stretching

Thursday: AM woody session, PM 6 mile run and stretching

Friday: AM woody session and weights, PM short session with coach

Saturday: Stretching, Bouldering session

Sunday: Stretching, Bouldering session (crap temps)

The road to my MTG is still a mess and covered in snow and mud, weather was too hot on Sunday to make much progress on a few bouldering "projects."   

I am definitely starting to feel a bit more fit by not resting so much between goes.  I am still improving on the posterior chain an need more technique relative to my current strength...

[the_dom]

Actual 11.5-9 (Target: 11.5-7)
S. Noon. FB warmup before left. Tor Warm and breezy. Lots there. Worked on end of Per Rev. In end found rather than using a heel toe to do last hard move to a finger edge discovered it was easier to do it toe down on the jug. Then linked that final section but on final bit with heel/toe locked in my knee made a disconcerting crunching sound and lower leg seemed to move a notch anti-clockwise. No pain but leg felt very peculiar so decided to pack up which was a shame as still fresh and possibly coulld have done the whole thing. Took a diversion to look at Odins Cave/Darkroom on way back.
S. Hobbling 

As stated last week decided to have time off from Oak. Had a good start to the week losing weight and getting some decent training in but then it started to unravel midweek onwards with social stuff and then popping my knee on Saturday. Have booked to go back to Malham on tuesday but it is 50/50 whether my knee will be up to it. Will see if I can get a physio to look at it tomorrow

Shark, if it's any consolation, something this happened to me a few years ago (related to hamstring inflexibility) - the crack sound was so loud that everyone thought I'd broken a hold off - it happened without much immediate pain, and it improved and healed very quickly.

Wed: back on the project feeling sore and achey from the previous day. Fortunately got the send first try of the day. 

YYFY!

My week was great training-wise, but I didn't have enough time to get outside much which was annoying. My brother is getting married next weekend, and my family are arriving this week, so I'll have very limited time to climb / train this week. This is probably not a bad thing, as I'm sure I could do with a bit more rest.

Mon: Trail run and leg rehab.

Tues: AM hangboard - frankenstein'd Chris Webb-Parsons one-arm workout with 3kgs on a weight belt. Wanted to climb in the evening, but Cape Town was apparently the hottest city in the world that day at 42 degrees celsius so I waited out the heat and did a repeaters session on the hangboard in the evening.

Wed: AM weights - deadlifts and benchpress. Gym was heaving at 5am and it was a little disconcerting. Hour long hike in the forest in the evening.

Thurs: AM hangboard - the same frankenstein'd Chris Webb-Parsons one-arm workout + 3kgs; PM bouldering at a small local boulder. Good session - managed to beat crimp-favouring climbing partner up a two-move nasty crimpy eliminate project of ours - 7B+ish and hard for me. Hardest I've crimped in ages.

Fri: YYFY day and snuck a trail run in too.

Sat: Wanted to get out on rock but everyone bailed on me. Heavy hangboard session - frankenstein'd Chris Webb-Parsons one-arm workout and repeaters + 3kgs; leg rehab.

Sun: AM hangboard, unweighted - F3 and B3 max hangs on the small BM rung, 6 x one arm dead hangs. Felt beasted from the previous day. PM weights: deadlifts alternating with kettlebell swings.

[Muenchener]

Have booked to go back to Malham on tuesday but it is 50/50 whether my knee will be up to it. Will see if I can get a physio to look at it tomorrow

As you might know I have had a bad knee since ~September and have spent some time in various kinds of rehab. By far the most effective element of the rehab was learning the (insane and unaffordable) price of a private MRI (state funded ones here generally require a six month wait). It has been in rapid recovery mode ever since ...

Interesting. I have the most basic possible German health insurance - still hideously expensive - and when I went to see my GP about my knee in the morning, he had me in an MRI scanner the same evening. The pictures were rather depressing though.

[T_B]

85.4Kg

M - School - lunch. Warm up and 10 x AnCap circuits (40secs, with 1min45secs rest). 4 failures (3 on move 13 of 15).
T - P.M. Works pre CWIF session. Felt tired and jumped on the skips early. Realised both elbows were throbbing, so sacked it off and went home. Argghh.
W - Ditched planned AeroCap. Theraband
T - Theraband
F- Foundry lunch. 25 mins light bouldering, testing out elbows, felt OK.
S - CWIF! Afternoon session, so did some careful warming up at home. Really busy but with 3.5hrs, no stress as realistically I knew there'd only be 25 out of 30 problems I'd really need to try. Got 207 points (came 52nd). It was quite a bit harder than last year when I got 230 something points. Basically there was only one problem that I nearly did first go, then didn't do that I might have been able to do and a classic arete transition problem that I fluffed on my first go. So 8 problems out of my league (well, in 3 goes anyway). Brilliant event as ever and the missus did well to (45th woman and 105 points, despite some iffy setting - a couple of 'easy' problems that were just ridiculously reachy.. though probably the top mum with two kids  )
S -

Was a bit worried on Tuesday that I have the start of bad elbows, but they didn't cause me any problems at the CWIF. Need to be careful though. Also weighed in below 85Kg on Wednesday, which had been my goal 6 or 7 weeks ago. Felt strong warming up on Saturday - amazing what not climbing 5 days a week does for you!

[kelvin]

Have booked to go back to Malham on tuesday but it is 50/50 whether my knee will be up to it. Will see if I can get a physio to look at it tomorrow

As you might know I have had a bad knee since ~September and have spent some time in various kinds of rehab. By far the most effective element of the rehab was learning the (insane and unaffordable) price of a private MRI (state funded ones here generally require a six month wait). It has been in rapid recovery mode ever since ...

Interesting. I have the most basic possible German health insurance - still hideously expensive - and when I went to see my GP about my knee in the morning, he had me in an MRI scanner the same evening. The pictures were rather depressing though.

Three week wait for me, from seeing GP to actual scan this Friday - didn't think too bad at all, I received the date maybe three days after seeing the Doc.

[duncan]

Power Club after several weeks absence.

Good to see iain and Erick back in harness. Erick, what motivated me to do 45 minutes of step-ups daily for some months (insert other mindless training activity of your choice) was having a really meaningful goal. Keeping a record so I could track my improvement also helped. The usual recommended stuff really works. 
 
This was the week csl and I were supposed to be crushing in Chulilla. For various reasons neither of us went. Mine was the more boring and predictable non-recovery of shoulder problem which has been troubling since November. It was a relief in many ways to let go of short term climbing goals. Trying to get fit rather than get better (the two overlap of course) was stopping me get better.

M - Cuff exercises
T - Cuff exercises
W - Scapular stability + cuff exercises
T - Work explosion: 120 minutes of being harangued on the phone. Beer.
F - Scapular stability + cuff exercises
S - Scapular stability + cuff exercises
S - Scapular stability + cuff exercises

Plan: two more weeks of ramping up the exercises before trying some very easy trad. in late March.

[nai]

stg - 1-3-6/1-4-6
mtg - 8as. E4s.

M - rest, fingers battered from Sun

T - 2nd limit bouldering session, 4 problems x 4 attempts, did 2 of the problems, close to another; 10 mins Aerocap to start and finish

w - had arranged to go out with tomtom on the basis of an awesome forecast. Didn't work out and had a hard time, did make slight progress on Kidneystone at least. 2x10 mins Aero when I got home

T rest

F - Warmed up at home, did the limit boulder problem I'd been close to on Tue 2nd go then headed to work for a first campus session.  Did the Beginners program from RCTM & surprised myself, 1-3-5 on Med rungs felt ok. Did 1-4 on each arm but couldn't pull through any further. 10 mins Aero at home to start and 20 mins Aero traversing to finish.

S - rest

S- limit boulder session 3 - felt good right from the off, got warm really quickly then made progress on final two-movers.  Strong session. A few body weight exercises to finish.

Pretty good week, some good sessions and weight coming down at last. Aero capacity still baffling though, regressed so far and seems reluctant to improve again.

[shark]

Shark, if it's any consolation, something this happened to me a few years ago (related to hamstring inflexibility) - the crack sound was so loud that everyone thought I'd broken a hold off - it happened without much immediate pain, and it improved and healed very quickly.

Thanks for the well wishing everyone.

Great improvement this morning though will still be trailing the others on the walk-in.

[JohnM]

Ignore the last post.  Somehow I managed to post last weeks Power Club entry!

STG: Rest, prehab and start redpointing Bat Route.
MTG: Indian Summer, Kilnsey or Bat Route, Malham, onsight 8a in Kalymnos.
LTG: Big wall/hard multipitch, 8A/+ boulder problem (bloc style < 10 moves), UK 8b+/c, live in Spain.

Monday: Morning run to wake up my body after 14 hours lying down and to test whether yesterday's illness had developed into anything.  Oliana - warm up on 7a and 7c.  Despite some illness power levels had improved after two days rest and I get through the hard section on Gorillas en la Niebla first go of the day and make sure I don't mess up the top crux and clip the chains. 
Tuesday: Warm up on 7a and 7c.  Redpoint attempt on Humildes pa Casa.  Conditions and still and humid.  After scraping through the hard start on the tufa every move higher I get I am losing grip and greasing off.  I eventually take a massive lob on the biggest runout.  Rest + rewarm up on half the 7c.  Flash Macedonia (7c+) only just getting through the bottom half to the mid height rest.  Feels good to be climbing in this style again! 
Wednesday: Rest.
Thursday: Oliana - Warm up on 7a+ and the 7c start of Humildes pa Casa.  Work the moves on the lower hard part of the tufa rather than just sketching through with a new sequence every time.  Redpoint attempt on Humildes pa Casa.  I climb the lower tufa section well with my new sequence but arrive at the mid height rest pretty pumped.  Unfortunately the knee pad I had parcel taped to my leg has slid down.  I spend a long time trying to shake out and pull it back up straining my pec in the process.  Things are looking really bad now and the whole knee pad fiasco has made me more tired.  Somehow, I manage fight my way up the final tufa section and onto the top slab where I stay for 5 minutes leaning in just below the chains, unable to take a hand off and making these weird guttural breathing sounds much to everyone at the crags amusement!  This is by far the hardest I have ever tried on a route.  Some redpoints feel easy when you do them and feel almost anticlimatical but this one certainly didn't!
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Oliana - Warm up on 7a and 7c and look a top moves to the 8a+ extension.  Flash attempt on Mon Dieu (8a+) with knowledge of the relative difficulty of different sections of the route but no specific beta having belayed Jonny on it a month before.  I climb though the lower hard section fairly smoothly and arrive at the mid height shake pretty fresh and confident that my first 8a+ flash (or 8th grade flash even) is in the bag.  However, I look up and the hanger is missing on the bolt that protects the biggest runout on the route.  Strong winds had caused insitu draws to spin and loosen some of the bolts.  I decided to continue anyway but remembered Jonny saying that you had to climb past the next bolt to clip it and that was with a draw already in the place.  By that time I would have been massively runout and the result of a fall was hard to calculate.  The route traverses way out up and left before going back right past this bolt.  I did half the traverse of hard irreversible moves and looked at the resting hold way out in no mans land.  The thought of being trapped out there 40ft diagonally out from the last bolt didn't appeal so I jumped off.  I was well pissed off as I was sure I could have done it!  Redpoint the 8a+ extension to the 7c as a consolation prize.       
Sunday:  Tres Ponts - warm up and a 7a+ and a really nice 7b+ (Instinct Salvatge).  Onsight attempt on El Batec (8a+).  Climb well though the steep section and then fall on the more technical vertical section.  Look at the moves on the upper half which are awesome and involve fridge hugging and compression up a prow.  I manage to do this first redpoint and then climb the extension to Allt Urgell (8a) a route I had fallen off on the onsight a couple of years ago.

This has been my most successful trip by far.  The past 3 years I have trained hard for trips but I have just become injured or burnt out.  Hopefully, now I have learned to find the right balance.  Now to try and convert this to UK rock and climb some long standing redpoint projects!

[shark]

Ignore the last post.  Somehow I managed to post last weeks Power Club entry!

Deleted

[Schnell]

STG: 7B in font at easter, don't get injured
MTG: injury free 2015, 7C this year

M. AM shoulder stability. indoor session, bouldering, FB and campusing. I'm doing some power training at the moment so have started max hangs and 2-3 moves on campus board. hitting 1-3-5 consistently with rungs that are a bit further than standard. great session.
T. ancap on circuit board, best links so far on a few of the circuits. shoulder stability
W. shoulders, about half the usual routine
T. indoor session, same as monday in content but feeling weak and tired
F. rest, 
S. outdoor session, bit of a unusual one for me as I wasn't very focused on anything, did a bit of trailing around repeating stuff. most significantly did a few moves on a 7C i hadn't managed before. this one might be the big 2015 goal.
S.  starting to get a cold, very tired. just about managed a stretching session but no shoulders

I'm a bit worried about the 10 days in font coming up because these days I'm trashed and need at least one rest day after climbing outdoors. I've been trying to improve my capacity for days on since christmas by doing ancap the day after bouldering, but it's made fuck all difference apparently.

Overall a week with definite ups and downs climbing-wise and also generally. definite high was being getting offered a phd scholarship in sheffield. YYFY. some good climbing done too. ive two more weeks of training and one of rest before font but it'd be good for the confidence to keep getting out and working on some 7Cs before then.

[iain]

STG: Chulilla at Easter, 3 weeks of training and a week taper left.
MTG: Hasse Brandler in late summer/autumn and resume my Shark-lite Infinite Gravity project addiction.

M: Routes at AW. Onsighting routes at (or above as it turned out) my limit. 6 routes like this with proper power fade happening which is what I was aiming for.
T: Routes at AW again, this time volume. Aimed for 5 x 2x6c's plus warm ups, 16 routes in total, good volume session. However the 6c's were feeling much harder than the previous week and was struggling with a cough all evening which I put down to fumes/dust earlier in the day except that ...
W:  Turns out my adorable nephew had (probably) given me a present at the weekend. Felt rubbish and almost no sleep.
T: Was ok-ish late afternoon and didn't want to bail on short routes session in the evening. Tried some onsights but level well below previous week. No sleep.
F: Felt rubbish again. Very little sleep.
S: Beautiful day and spent most of it tv watching on the couch. Wife did Grindleford Gallop and it felt steady apparently 
S: Foundry bouldering, felt strong enough, couldn't do more than half a problem at a time but good to be climbing and on the mend.

Sleep took a big hit this week which didn't help illness recovery. Turns out generic cough mixture had an amphetamine in it so taking it just before bed was not a good idea 
Mon/Tues felt like good training, rest of the week was a right off training wise.

This was the week csl and I were supposed to be crushing in Chulilla. For various reasons neither of us went.

That's rubbish. We're heading out 4-16th April, you'd be welcome to pop over for some climbing recovery in the sun.

Working 7b circuit project. Did all moves and some decent links, including through the technical crux.

From memory that's big step up to a year ago isn't it? Nice one!

[shark]

Saturday: Flash attempt on Mon Dieu (8a+) with knowledge of the relative difficulty of different sections of the route but no specific beta having belayed Jonny on it a month before.  I climb though the lower hard section fairly smoothly and arrive at the mid height shake pretty fresh and confident that my first 8a+ flash (or 8th grade flash even) is in the bag.  However, I look up and the hanger is missing on the bolt that protects the biggest runout on the route.  Strong winds had caused insitu draws to spin and loosen some of the bolts.  I decided to continue anyway but remembered Jonny saying that you had to climb past the next bolt to clip it and that was with a draw already in the place.  By that time I would have been massively runout and the result of a fall was hard to calculate.  The route traverses way out up and left before going back right past this bolt.  I did half the traverse of hard irreversible moves and looked at the resting hold way out in no mans land.  The thought of being trapped out there 40ft diagonally out from the last bolt didn't appeal so I jumped off.  I was well pissed off as I was sure I could have done it! 

Bad luck.

[Sasquatch]

Loads of sickness going round - Everyone make sure you get enough sleep

STG: Maintain Psych, and drop weight.   Either local boulder or route projects depending on weather.
MTG: Bolt new route projects, have a couple of promising walls to recon.  1-4-7 & 1-arm pullup
LTG: To Bolt....

M-Campus session, felt crap.  really tired and HEAVY from previous long weekend. 
T-Weights - DL, 1-arm Pullups, Abs, Dips, and 1 leg squats
W-Route session with mate.  fun, took it fairly easy as i just wanted to hang out. 
Th-Campus session, odd session, great distance, but couldn't stick anything.  fingers felt off, but pull strength was good. Got the distance for 1-4-6.5, so was psyched for that and confident it'll go.   
F-Rest
S-Rest
S- First day outside for 2015     Adn it was a good one.  Plan was to head to Hatcher Pass to do some recon skiing, but it dumped 12-18 unches with heavy winds, so the Avalanche danger was really high.  My friend offered to show me a hidden gem he'd been looking at.  I was a bit skepitical, but he's a pretty good judge.  Ended up cleaning and climbing 6 new lines- v0,v2, v5, v4, and 2 v7's, and all of them good, plus left one last project in the 7C+ range. The v4 in particular and the project are fantastic.  All within a 30 minute house to boulder approach

Good news is the Psyche is back and getting outside keeps me psyched and healthy 

[Muenchener]

Working 7b circuit project. Did all moves and some decent links, including through the technical crux.

From memory that's big step up to a year ago isn't it? Nice one!

Thanks. A year or so ago I was just starting to try 7a's, so two grades.

[tomtom]

Good news is the Psyche is back and getting outside keeps me psyched and healthy 

Boom!

[fried]

M - Rest
Tu- Indoor session that I can barely remember, not sure what I did plus shoulder stuff.
W - BM session 45mins; failing on the second set 5th hang.
Th - rest
Fr - Debated having an early morning BM session, but instead opted for another rest day.
Sa - Relies, nachos and beer.

Su - Spring hits Font in full force, decided on Franchard Sablons to have a shot at one of my projects; a lowly little 5+ that looks good, is really technical and I can't do, called Prise de tete. Warmed up a bit,  then spent a good hour fiddling with my sequence which may or may not be correct, repeatedly pinging off the same foothold. Had a play on Dalle à Clement (6A) and took an ankle jarring fall from midway up, decided to have a walk and check it was O.K.

I was planning on walking down to Cuisiniere to check out Moondance, another on my year's list, but I was feeling a little frustrated with my lack of top-outs, so I wandered around Isatis getting spat off the same problems I always get spat off and repeating the same problems I always repeat. It was 18° in the afternoon, I was feeling utterly worn out, so I had a little snooze in the sun.

A nice day, but a little frustrating to not see all the work indoors getting translated into finishing new stuff outside. I start the same every year; overly high hopes, crap footwork and frusration.

[fried]

MTG (2015) Beastmaker 5A routine   

I reckon I've more chance of hitting 7A than finishing that routine.

[nik at work]

STG - trad projects
Mtg - 8c and age related flim flam
Ltg - 9a
Bhag - bruderliebe

Fuck me autocorrect on iPads is annoying...


M - BM session +40kg
T - nothing
W - bm session +60kg. But of a silly experiment, just did 5s hangs and dropped down to 20 kg for the monos.
T - nothing
F - bm session body weight
S - nothing
S - bm session +20kg, managed the devil grip hang with +20kg and a brief (3ish second) hang on index monos.

Middle fingers seem to have peaked a bit right now. Ring fingers still making some progress but current biggest gains are in index and little fingers. Hardly surprising as they have been a bit ignored during the bulk of my bm-ing. Nothi outside this week due to a daddy daycare weekend, and next weekend is Mother's Day, bugger! Hopefully get out on Saturday...