Ah mctrails I didn't realise you were using a pulley, I assumed you meant you were doing one armed hangs also for some reason I just assume people are half-crimping which seems to be in vogue, my bad. That's where my 8B statement came from.
mctrials - go easy on your fingers. Strong digits are fuck-all consolation if you can't climb.
Quote from: petejh on February 23, 2015, 06:17:38 pmmctrials - go easy on your fingers. Strong digits are fuck-all consolation if you can't climb.Are you talking about my plan to be able to one arm hang the middle rung on the beastmaker in 6 months time? I am just recovering from an A2 at the moment which is pretty much better now but I really hated having to ease up on my climbing while it healed.
yep. 13 months ago I did exactly what you're aspiring to do and strained a pulley very shortly afterward which put me out for 6 weeks. It made me think it wasn't worth the gain. Long term medium intensity for me since then.
Oh ffs! I've wrote a lengthy reply twice only to have the net scuppered when sending.
I suspect you twist but doing any one armed hang half crimped is excellent even if twisted! If you're straight on cut your ropes and throw your axes, you're as strong as unkle in his pomp but can climb! A scary thought
Would love to see a video of someone off ukb doing a one armer proper half crimped, as in not just dragging the hold, proper chiselly chiselling fingersEdit: off not of
Quote from: rodma on February 23, 2015, 09:40:52 pmWould love to see a video of someone off ukb doing a one armer proper half crimped, as in not just dragging the hold, proper chiselly chiselling fingersEdit: off not ofI do all my one arm hangs on a 2cm rung half-crimped/chiselling - hopefully I'll get back to one armer strength soon.
Arghh! No Dave what dense said originally was half crimped straight on you should be climbing 8B. The fact that no one understood what straight on meant has nothing to do with me, I thought it was straightforward, or even standundertheboardasif...forward.
You are doing one arm hangs for 6-8 seconds to improve your finger strength? Do you climb at least 8B? I possibly know 5 people who could do this and know the same amount who climb 8C
Nibile,Do you find that training fingers at max for a short time / low reps is more or less injury-inducing than training at 80% for a long time / high reps ?Just curious to know.