Geez... Every paragraph in this topic makes le want to reply! Not to give away any particular truths but Just to exchange on a subject touching my job and passion, with a "safe" audience (my clients are out of your reach in case i say bs!)
Re Yoof.Did you pursue technique as "mastery" of moves, at the time? As in, "owning" the move and do it with ballet-like fluency?I think that's one of the things that can hold back intermediate and good climbers, as for them getting on something "meaningful" in terms of overall training value means giving a 100% effort on moves they do not master yet.
I once complained with an ex national coach about the fact that my hardest ascents are rarely a show of mastery and I perceive myself climbing "badly" when at my absolute limit.He replied : Ghisino, what is your goal? Sending, or showing off? Either one is ok, but be clear with yourself!
Perfection of movement and 10% effort, now you've got me interested!I don't get as much satisfaction if I don't climb well, regardless of the difficulty. Let's not forget grading is arbitrary, vague and at best an average - a false god. Climbing well is satisfying whatever the grade.I think drills and repetition are under-used in climbing.Bruce Lee quote: "I fear not the man who has practiced 10,000 kicks once, but I fear the man who has practiced one kick 10,000 times." Most of the stuff locally I didn't feel I did well I've had the opportunity to return to and try to improve on. My perception of difficulty is that if I can climb it badly, it's not hard.
My perception of difficulty is that if I can climb it badly, it's not hard.
I was stuck around v6-7 for years, doing the odd v8, and desperately wanting to climb harder, but never managing. The problem was that I was only ever trying v6s, 7s and 8s, and easier stuff, and I was always doing them in the most efficient way I could (lank, body position, lots of heel/toe hooks/cams, loads of egyptians, sneaky sequences etc. etc.). Doing that made me really good at climbing those grades efficiently (like, flash every v6 and a lot of v7s) but I couldn't for the life of me do a single v8 power problem, or ever touch v9. Some times, the best technique involves a lot of failure, some training, getting stronger and trying hard.
Does anyone have tips for working 2 move wonders? Thinking of rest times etc.I've got myself a project, and I seem to have 2 good attempts on it per session before I can't pull hard enough anymore...