I was more than happy to take a back seat Alan - helped you achieve your goals.
I'd focus on not overdoing it training and injuring yourself.
Second is to forget about endurance for a little bit. Work your strength and power. Using Barrows example, you seem to lack anaerobic power, and I'd guess anaerobic capacity as well. Quote from: kelvin on January 28, 2015, 01:20:43 pmAncap - last night I got on the smallest campus rail, foot on. 25 hand movements (around 30sec), 90sec rest, repeat and managed 21 reps of this before a blister developed on my middle finger. Maybe could have managed two more reps, was slightly pumped but powering out was the issue towards the end.
Ancap - last night I got on the smallest campus rail, foot on. 25 hand movements (around 30sec), 90sec rest, repeat and managed 21 reps of this before a blister developed on my middle finger. Maybe could have managed two more reps, was slightly pumped but powering out was the issue towards the end.
at the grades the OP mentions, it feels like overkill to me, I can't help but feel a good volume of bouldering, at as hard a grade as mojo allows could suffice
Essentially, what I'm trying to say, in a round about way, is that the OP shouldn't get too hung up on systematic training. At least not at the expense of enjoyment or risking injury; unless you prefer such work-outs to a more free-form approach. If not, just climb a lot. Get used to pulling hard. Get used to falling in the pursuit of one-more-move. Get comfortable with your own capabilities. Natural adaptation and habituation should hopefully allow you to achieve your goals.
And not meaning to be offensive, but from your feats of strength/foot on campussing (sounds like bloody good ancap to me!), it sounds like you need to learn how to move efficiently - doesn't necessarily mean overt dropknee/kneebar trickery.
Quote from: moose on January 28, 2015, 06:00:55 pm at the grades the OP mentions, it feels like overkill to me, I can't help but feel a good volume of bouldering, at as hard a grade as mojo allows could suffice Structured training isn't necessary at this stage.
personally I'd just get stuck in to routes you fancyAnd have fun
I'm never going to come back being a good climber
Accept you'll over and underperform at times.
Also, ignore indoor grades.
Quote from: nai on January 28, 2015, 01:50:18 pmNot really what you're asking but I find more gains from Foot-on-Campussing if I pause on each hold for 4s, on no climb anywhere are you going to make 25 hand moves in 30s, slowing down feels more relevant, it's harder but much more effective.I do similar as 25 moves in 30s is just so unrealistic. instead of pausing though, I make myself do two foot movements for every hand movement. No time counting, but it seems much more realistic.
Not really what you're asking but I find more gains from Foot-on-Campussing if I pause on each hold for 4s, on no climb anywhere are you going to make 25 hand moves in 30s, slowing down feels more relevant, it's harder but much more effective.
Quote from: Sasquatch on January 28, 2015, 05:29:06 pmQuote from: nai on January 28, 2015, 01:50:18 pmNot really what you're asking but I find more gains from Foot-on-Campussing if I pause on each hold for 4s, on no climb anywhere are you going to make 25 hand moves in 30s, slowing down feels more relevant, it's harder but much more effective.I do similar as 25 moves in 30s is just so unrealistic. instead of pausing though, I make myself do two foot movements for every hand movement. No time counting, but it seems much more realistic. Just wanna clarify something here - when you say you pause on each hold for 4 sec, is that with the both hands on a rail whilst you move your feet? I had a play last night for a while on the bigger campus rail, one minute on and one minute off and trying to hover one hand where it needs to go for a few seconds before placing it and then hovering the other one. Blew me apart to be honest after the evening before and felt a lot harder than holding on with both and moving the feet twice. Honestly, if you two are moving your feet and holding on one handed...
Boredom
BREATH! I had no idea that I held my breath all the time. No oxygen, no go. Literally.
https://www.trainingbeta.com/justen-sjong-breathing/Apologies if you have already seen this.