Looking at how I climb (aside from fingerboarding) I really try and open hand everything due to previous injuries and I mostly do OK at this - especially on Grit... but due to the shape of my hands, when I open hand my pinky does nothing. Its not even touching the hold (its a fair bit shorter). Index and ring fingers are the same length - so same load. This is interesting (sorry it is to me - its probably really dull to everyone else) because my back two and especially pinky are useless - very weak. its a weakness I'm trying to improve. So its little wonder my little fingers are so useless when I hardly every use them... Therefore, in order to get that pinky working I've started half crimping everything on the fingerboard.. its a plan..
Not sure whether it's that short - but does nothing open handing a small hold... I much prefer OH things.. But may be missing a little extra boost from that finger..
I've revised my beastmaker routine now inlight of a couple of videos that were posted up... Firstly, I've been hanging pretty straight armed - with shoulders and arms 'engaged' (as in not fully slack) but not at the 10-15 degree angle suggested in the training vid.. This is interesting, as I can see now why the bent arm is not only maybe better for your arms/joints etc.. but also puts you in a better position mechanically to move or move the arm from that move.. so I have decided to start training all deadhangs with such bent arms. This hurt - they were not used to it!
Secondly, grips. As I understand it...Crimp = Evil. Effective, but nasty to all things tendon in the hands.Half Crimp = A little bit nasty, but much better than the evil crimp...Open Hand = Angel. The best in terms of injury risk, but not necessarily the most effective....Looking at how I climb (aside from fingerboarding) I really try and open hand everything due to previous injuries and I mostly do OK at this - especially on Grit... but due to the shape of my hands, when I open hand my pinky does nothing. Its not even touching the hold (its a fair bit shorter). Index and ring fingers are the same length - so same load. This is interesting (sorry it is to me - its probably really dull to everyone else) because my back two and especially pinky are useless - very weak. its a weakness I'm trying to improve. So its little wonder my little fingers are so useless when I hardly every use them... Therefore, in order to get that pinky working I've started half crimping everything on the fingerboard.. its a plan..
I'm definitely a believer in training 1/2 crimp, but I wouldn't go full on first thing. build up to it slowly to make sure you don't hurt yourself
Wednesday - fb using bm app with about 4kg taken off did 5a routine
Quote from: jfdm on January 25, 2015, 09:26:19 pmWednesday - fb using bm app with about 4kg taken off did 5a routine
My first power club post!
Quote from: tomtom on January 25, 2015, 01:06:10 pmLooking at how I climb (aside from fingerboarding) I really try and open hand everything due to previous injuries and I mostly do OK at this - especially on Grit... but due to the shape of my hands, when I open hand my pinky does nothing. Its not even touching the hold (its a fair bit shorter). Index and ring fingers are the same length - so same load. This is interesting (sorry it is to me - its probably really dull to everyone else) because my back two and especially pinky are useless - very weak. its a weakness I'm trying to improve. So its little wonder my little fingers are so useless when I hardly every use them... Therefore, in order to get that pinky working I've started half crimping everything on the fingerboard.. its a plan.. Interesting to me.I have short little fingers too - they barely reach the dip joint of my ring fingers. (I can't bring myself to say "pinky", sorry) I do manage to get them on the BM small edges, but they're probably not bearing much weight. I throw in some sets of back three to try to train them up a bit. Back two? Ha ha no chance.I rarely full crimp and am hopelessly weak at it. Discovered this week that I can hang a small campus rung for exactly half as long in a full crimp as I can open handed.