[Franco]

As per title. Also interested in who did it at what stages. The story I've heard so far is that JD did the FA, then Nick Dixon repeated it. Someone else repeated it and said it was E5 6c. Pearson ripped the left pebble off at some stage (presumably before he did it?) and it hasn't been done since. Is this correct? Current sequence looks a hell of a lot harder than this ---

Thank you.

[deacon]

Maybe ask mark20, pretty sure he would have looked at it at the weekend

[andy popp]

I don't know about subsequent history but I'm pretty certain Nick thought it was hard (e.g. harder than E5 6c)

[Franco]

Yeah I was with him. Thanks though.

[Johnny Brown]

Didn't Johnny give it E8 7b?

[mark20]

E8 7a/b apparently
www.climbmagazine.com/getfile.php?type=archives&id=18

[dave]

I wouldn't read too much into Scut making it look like a path in that video!

[Nigel]

Bloody hell does no-one remember trivia from old mags anymore JB??? As Mark says E8 7a/b, in the same listings as Angel's Share E9 7b as I recall.

If Scut says E5 (E6 on vid link?) I would take that as confirmation of the original grade, he is a monster. Bit of extra trivia from when I asked Scut about this route - he said he took two of same boot to crag (i.e. 2 lefts / rights - anyone who knows Scut won't be surprised) so he had to borrow the other one off someone else. It was several sizes too big. He did it anyway.

[Nigel]

Other trivia from memory - Johnny did the FA in a day, Nick took 7 (?) for the second ascent.

[Fiend]

I know what E5 6c is. I was onsighting those in '84

    

Nige if it helps I do remember reading the news article about Nick Dixon repeating Smoked Salmon, and "3 7a moves in a row" bit...

[Franco]

Cheers for the info. Any more trivia from since it became harder?

[Nigel]

Afraid not yoof, it became harder well after I stopped memorising the contents of climbing mags. All I remember is that James knocked a pebble off, didn't know he'd done it tbh (either before / after pebble). Which of the pebbles that Scut uses have come off? Just bothered to read that Bamford PDF, funny quote from Dawes! Although obviously doesn't know Scut if he's accusing him of ego...lets face it Scut makes it look E5!

[Johnny Brown]

So Franco, you went on it and couldn't do it? Wasn't it in full sun on Sunday? The only time I went up there to try it I sacked it because it was too hot. In February.

[Franco]

Nah, done the moves on a toppers, just interested to see if it's actually been climbed.  The left hand he has in that film is exactly where you need just something (anything would do!), but there is nothing, apart from really low undercut pebbles. It's not any harder than 7a though I don't think (?). It's a pretty nice leap now (you have to flow like a salmon, with a palm off the wall).  Might actually be getting interested in this grit!

[Johnny Brown]

I had it down as more of a seal move myself but there you go.

[metal arms]

Might actually be getting interested in this grit!

Shouldn't you be up at Wimberry?  Seem to remember something about a bet about Dangermouse being a piece of piss...

[Franco]

Not sure that's true, but aye wimberry looks good.

[metal arms]

Apologies.  You didn't say it would be piss but a bet is indeed a bet...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=475956&v=1#x6570417

In summary for those that aren't welcome or hate the borg
 

 Boy -  on 26 Sep 2011
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to Anonymous)
>
> Sage. Seeing as my inability to headpoint bollocks peak trade routes is such an issue, I'll go do one for you. First you have to tell me your name though, so you look like a tool when I do.

I've no idea who anonymous is and even though most of his/her posts have been deleted, from your replies I'm guessing I would have agreed with everything he/she said. So on that basis I nominate you headpoint Dangermouse at Wimberry and then come back on here (or get wheeled in by a friend) and remind us all how soft and shit the peak is.
Yours sincerely Jon Fullwood

  Franco Cookson -  on 26 Sep 2011
In reply to Andy Say:


RE Dangermouse offer: You're on. I won't be in England until july next year and wont be around the western peak until the next academic year after that, but then we'll see. Looks like a nice line too and somewhere in the peak that's actually inspiring!

[willackers]

Not sure that's true

 

I'm looking forward to hearing about the send

[slackline]

 

[petejh]

Classic! Popcorn indeed.

[Franco]

fantastic! Looks like I'll have to go waltz up that then..

[petejh]

Question is, will it be your Last Waltz..

[Franco]

So no one knows whether this has seen an ascent then?

[willackers]

Dangermouse? Or Smoked Salmon?