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UKB power club week 254 22nd Dec - 28th Dec (Read 4872 times)

Muenchener

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UKB power club week 254 22nd Dec - 28th Dec
December 28, 2014, 08:47:13 pm
STG (December): Another day three days on rock this year, weather permitting. Yes
    Indoor 7a redpoint. Nope. January.
    Arco at New Year. Yes
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine.
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Wall, Gilching. Routes 4 x 5c-ish warm up, 3 x 7a attempts with new single-push highpoints on two separate projects; 6a+ 5c warm down.
T: Bike to work 25km
W:
T:   
F-S: South Tyrol. Drove over Brenner Pass in a blizzard on Boxing Day morning, thinking we were probably wasting our time & diesel. Arrived on the south side to find somewhat better weather, though still cold & windy, and had a pleasant three days doing easy routes and checking out venues worth returning to when we can actually feel our fingers. Best spot: Juval. A sport climbing area ironically situated directly below Mr Messner's castle. The easy routes were good and the harder stuff looked excellent. Five minutes from the road, but tucked away in a gorge where you don't hear the traffic once you're inside. There's even a cafe. And a top Italo-Austrian dfb in the cafe.
"I'll be back", as Reinhold Messner said in Die Hard.

Now drinking a nice Castel Juval Müller Thurgau

Dolly

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Wine gets good reviews. How is it ?
M nothing
T Foundry Wave.
W
T Kettlebells in the evening
F Plan was to leave m in laws in London in time to get back to Sheff for the match. Got in the car at 11:15 and it wouldnt start. Green Flag came out and couldnt get it going, said it was a dealer job. Fucked about trying to find  a dealer, but at least some us needed to be back on Saturday am so me and my son were dropped inthe driving rain at Golders Green at 5:40 to get the coach back to Sheff. Coach was an hour late then because of all the snow we didnt get back to Sheffield coach station until 12:37. Took us an hour to walk home with 2  heavy bags each in the fresh snow. By the time we got to bed it was 2:35.
S Knackered and ached all over. Managed an hour in the shed
S Battered myself building snowmen, snowballing, shovelling snow. 2naps

JackAus

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STG: Maybe more V7s, maybe DWS project. Abit all up in the air, depends on where I am...
MTG: Sushi Train V8.
LTG: V11.

M: Indoors.
T: Back down the coast to parents place for xmas.
W:
T:
F: Lot 33. V0, V1, 2x V3, 4x V4, 2x V5. Not been here in a while, everything felt hard...
S: DWS. 2 attempts. First time back here in a while. Both pretty rubbish attempts. Couldn't stick the crimp and the cut felt horrible both times. Also did a lap of the 7a traverse and 3x V3s.
S: Rest day.

Muenchener

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Now drinking a nice Castel Juval Müller Thurgau
Wine gets good reviews. How is it ?

Pleasant enough in a very mild, unassuming sort of way. Lacks punch compared to a good German Riesling.

I'm no wine expert though, esp. not white wine. Just bought it out of curiosity as I happened to be in the shop.

fried

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Mon-Sun - Nothing

But one YYFY - Booked up cottage in the peak for May, all paid for. On the Matlock side for a change.

tomtom

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Nothing. Following advice of physio#2 of rest, ice.... though hampered by two 5 hour drives and large family xmas making it difficult to just lie down and do nothing but rest for a while..

Back is slightly better (Maybe) than a week ago... who knows... maybe I'll wake up one morning and it'll all be fine :D

Not visited the scales for 5 days :/

nai

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Nothing. Following advice of physio#2 of rest, ice.... though hampered by two 5 hour drives and large family xmas making it difficult to just lie down and do nothing but rest for a while..

Back is slightly better (Maybe) than a week ago... who knows... maybe I'll wake up one morning and it'll all be fine :D

Not visited the scales for 5 days :/,

Good news that it's improving

I had a weird thing happen xmas day and boxing. Spent all day in a house, mostly sitting between fridge visits, back ached a bit but I developed a discomfort which grew into real pain in my legs. Thought I was developing DVT but no swelling so took drugs overnight and was fine first thing 26th but it started to come on again. Assume it was just my position in the chairs I was occupying, was ok on drive home and since.

Went on scales first time in two months yesterday, after recording a 20 yr low in early November I am now at an all time high, 2kg above "normal" weight.  Fortunately a quick session on board and beast hasn't caused any further back issues so can get back to training.

csl

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January Goals

V8 indoors
3 days out
Lose 2kg

Mon - Biscuit. Boulders up to V5 onsight. Some time on the 50º Board. Fingers feeling ok in general.
Tue - Sun - Rest

Cancelled trip to Scotland as friends car broke down. Off to Wales today, will hopefully get something done.

Schnell

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STG: get fingers back in working order (collateral ligament injury).
MTG; few specific boulders in 7A+ to 7B range, be fully rehabed for for Font in Feb

M: decent indoor session with a very frustrating finger tweak due to a moment's inattention. should know better.
T. shoulder stability, reverse flies and presses with low weight
W. outdoor session in good conditions but getting frustrated with lack of success on 7A+ proj so I decided to give up til my fingers are fully healed and I can try with a more comfortable sequence.
T/F.
S. another reasonable indoor session, most importantly no tweaks.

No thoughts of progression at the moment, just trying to fix the fingers and keep working on the shoulder stability stuff which I'm doing most days.

T_B

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86.2Kg  :(

M - Run 26 mins. P.M. Short session at Highball as main comp wall had been stripped. Had a bit of a play on their board - some lovely Beastmaker wooden holds.
T -
W - Run 37 mins / 6Km followed by mega core session with brother-in-law, who is a bit of a cross fit dude - totally beasted.
T - Run 40 mins.
F - Fingerboard - repeaters. 6 x 7 on front 3, failed on 5 on back 3. Fingers felt less achy than of late. Assisted one armers and some stretching.
S - Run 40 mins.
S - Highball comp with the missus (R2 of their winter comp). 205 points, so won it. Rach won the women's too, so an improvement on last Christmas when we both came 2nd.

Managed to keep pretty active all week by running, which I'm really psyched about. Definitely felt like it was helping my ankle, rather than hurting it. Still put on weight due to sheer volume of troughing / boozing at the in laws.

Got some good ideas for core workouts from my bro-in-law and am sorting of getting together a training plan for January, based on climbing aspirations for 2015.

shark

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Weight currently uncertain. Scales died - new fancy set on order

Last 2 weeks:

M. Wave session
T.  Home board sess I think
W. AM Physio then Wave. Eve Home board
T.  AeroCap  Just 1x20/10 on systems board
F.
S. Travel to La Plagne
Sun - Friday Few hours of snowboarding each day. Succeeded in main aim to avoid injury. Daily shoulder rehab and stretching.
S. Long journey back. Bad traffic in France. 4 hour flight delay to Manchester. Snake Pass closed. Baggage still in Lyons.
S. 3 or 4 hours of heavy duty snow and ice clearing of office car park with Ben. Too tired to train.

Seem to have had a low level cold for last 2 weeks. Still not totally sorted left shoulder out - though significantly better than it was. Lots of trips to look forward to in 2015, aims here. Hope I get to stuck into hard training in January without interruption or injury with required level of psyche.

Happy New Year to Powerclubbers in all endeavours and struggles.
 

duncan

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STG - rehab. shoulder tweak. Ease into fingerboarding.
MTG: 7b RP this winter. E5 OS, something vertical, classic and not dangerous, next April.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7c RP.

M - Mini fingerboard session
T - Shoulder stability exercises
W - Mini fingerboard session
T - Shoulder stability exercises
F - Mini fingerboard session
S - Shoulder stability exercises
S - Managed to drive to Swanage with no navigational cock-ups this time. Glorious T-shirt weather, crag deserted. Excellent day at Guillimot, including Oceanid (with a loop into Warlord, about E3 like this).

Decent training week and don't seem to have put on weight either. Felt surprisingly fluent  on rock despite not having climbed trad. for 5 months. Shoulder about 70%.

Season's greetings to fellow Power Clubbers, good luck with your aims for 2015.
« Last Edit: December 29, 2014, 07:26:04 pm by duncan »

nik at work

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Missed last week, and have barely made this week. Mind you not much to report...
Last week first:
M - BM session did 7/3 repeaters but rather than doing set of 6 repeats I did as many repeats as I could or five minutes worth (30 repeats), whichever came first. Did five minutes on all the middle row except deep mono (which I've pretty much stopped using TBH). Then did three minutes (18 repeats) on lower row two finger and then 2 minutes on lower row mono. Long rests between sets and got VERY pumped, boxtastic...
Also did usual front lever/leg raise type stuff
T - nuffink
W - BM session. Long hangs. Did 60s two handed hangs of all middle row (no mono's) and bottom row shallow two finger pocket and four finger crimp. Then 45s hangs of mono's with middle fingers and with ring fingers.
T - S nuffink

This week
M - S NUFFINK, Christmas innit?

Back to it after New Year...

kelvin

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Still bee being battered by this virus. I'm alright as long as I'm warm and not having to exert myself. Pah.

Mon - Work. Full on lurgy head.

Tue - The Hobbit and the Xmas night with my kids.

Wed - Panto with daughter. Pack for Wales.

Xmas Day - Got to RAC boulders about 3.30pm but gave it a miss. Felt crap.

Boxing Day - Walked into Bus Stop quarry. It rained. Headed north coast. It rained more. Sat in front of log fire.

Sat - Tremadog. Racked up and walked to the bottom of the crag, heavens opened. Beacon. Did some boulder stuff, then leading. Flashed every 5a/b/c I tried but 6a was undoable as couldn't catch my breath when I went to put any sort of real effort in.

Sun - Dinorwig. Seconded Bela Lugosi but sat down after that as lungs closed up with the cold air. Nice in the sun tho.

Happy hols Power Clubbers!

cheque

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M- Nothing.

T- Nothing.

W- Walk around Black Rocks.

T- Stanage Popular. Soloed Christmas Crack and 11 other fun routes I'd done before. A great day to be out.

F- Family stuff, terror drive in rapidly falling snow.

S- Walk in the snow.

S- Drive up to Newcastle.

New goals/ training regime as of next week.

rginns

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65 Kg
STG = Consolidate 7A, get a few established Lancs classic 7A/+s ticked by the end of winter.
MTG = 7B - By this time next year it will be good to have done at least one quarry based 7B.
LTG = 7C ha ha ha ha ha although I've given myself until I'm 40 (7 yrs)

M - short session at Wilton 1
T - 3 mince pies
W - 5 mince pies, one piece of Christmas cake
T - 2 mince pies, 2 x Christmas cake, 4 truffles, Christmas pudding
F - 5 mince pies, rest of Christmas pudding
S - 4 mince pies, piece of Christmas cake
S - 6 truffles, 3 pieces of Christmas cake

It's Christmas right?

krymson

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STG: stay healthy and route-fit for a few low 7s in HK over chinese new years
MTG: boulder more

M yoga
T Outdoor routes:
warmed up on a 6c -climbed ok but didn't feel comfortable taking a practice fall.
tried to repeat a long airy 7a+ - but got spooked near the top and took a fall -- which helped, then finished after a short dog.
sent a (non-airy) 7a pretty easily.
worked a 7b/+ a few times but kept getting spooked at a thin run out crux.
Lesson of the day: don't skip practice fall(s). Was overgripping and not climbing efficiently.
W yoga, christmas sex
Th weights -antags/shoulders, non-sexy christmas stuff
Fr chill
Sa yoga
Su Indoor bouldering: movement drills and an endurance lap around the gym while paying attention to shoulders. Went home and capped off with a fingerboard sesh.

webbo

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Mon. Move out of old house, go to work. Go home to new house. Lots of shifting boxes, fitting fridge doors type stuff.
Tue. Dumbbell workout light weights, more shifting stuff.
Wed. Yet more shifting stuff around.
Thu. Bike 1hour 50 mins 30 miles hilly.
Fri. Dumbbell workout. Bike 2 hours 24 mins 39 miles.
Sat. Leeds wall. As it was the first time I'd climbed in 2 weeks or so I was as bad as I expected.
Sun. Fitting a cat flap.

 

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