[A Jooser]

Is Luxulyan Cornwall’s answer to Bovey Woods? Or is it, as Andy Grieve says: "...like Fontainbleu, with a wellington boot walk in!"? Well, now you can find out as Tom Last has produced an new PDF guide which includes over 120 boulder problems up to V6 and 16 new routes climbed over the last few years. It even points the way to a number of open projects.

Tom's kindly let me upload it to the Cheesewring Climbing webpages so you can take a look at his guide here but be warned it's a hefty 13MB file. Well done to Tom for his work on this and putting the effort into cleaning and seeking out so much new stuff. His most recent addition to the area is actually a route - a pretty meaty-looking E4/5 offwidth called The Singularity - although I'm sure if enough boulderers start visiting Luxulyan some equally impressive lines will get done above pads soon too.

[ben]

well done Tom - great effort putting that together! 

[andyd]

...I don't know...is it a massive anticlimax when you get there?

[r-man]

Well done Tom, great effort! The penny loaf looks intriguing...

[SA Chris]

I just googled to try recall exactly where it is and found this;

 http://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/3330/luxulyan_arse_stones.html

Has it been climbed on? The cleft looks interesting!

[andyd]

I just googled to try recall exactly where it is and found this;

 http://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/3330/luxulyan_arse_stones.html

Has it been climbed on? The cleft looks interesting!

How deep can you go?!


Had a look at the guide that's been put together. Looks really nice for a freebie. Especially when you consider the cost of similar size guides like the Anston Stones guide. Well done on a sexy looking product.

FWIW the lines at this venue appear to be nicer than the aforementioned comparative venue. It'll be nice to see some videos to give a sense of scale.

[A Jooser]

...I don't know...is it a massive anticlimax when you get there?

  Maybe. I was thinking more along the lines that at both places you'll likely get massively lost and struggle to see any boulders. The new guides should help a bit though. However, I must admit I've not actually been to Bovey Woods.

For scale there are a few videos online: The Wild Hunt V6, Aces High V4 and Black Dogs V2. But there are also a number of routes at these venues - over 30 are listed in the current guidebook (2012) - including three-star sport route Strongbow (18 metres, 7c) and one of the best outcrop routes in Cornwall Wild Thing (10 metres, E6 6b). The Pennyloaf was said to be '49 feet by 27 feet with 72 feet girth' so make of that what you will.

What more can I say? Luxulyan's boulders are certainly scattered and hard to find, they'll likely be mossy and somewhat overgrown but small is one thing they are not.