[nic mullin]

Off to Chironico at the end of the month, never been before, but I'm sure plenty of others have. Most info on here seems to be either old, or for hard stuff.

If you have any suggestions for must do problems 7a-7c in any style, that'd be much appreciated. Especially keen on dynamic stuff, strong lines and highballs, but not averse to anything if the moves are good.

Much obliged.

[masonwoods101]

Dr crimp.... Amazing

[stokesy]

Dr Med Dent is quality and sounds like what you're after (dynamic, good line, decent height), does need a few pads if I remember correctly. Didn't get it finished when I tried it but the guide reckons 7B+.

[masonwoods101]

Anything on the top plateau near the village.... Dave's dyno(?) highball slab/ dyno

[frasermcilwraith]

Borderline is one of the best problems I've ever done, 7a slab dyno, not a highball but a really nice line.

Dr Crimp is cool too, everyone seems to say it's good and it does live up to the hype. There's a nice little cave just down from it too which has some great warmups in it from about 6a-6cish.

Komilator is a brilliant problem as well, it's definitely not 8a though, more like 7b or 7b+.

[Doylo]

Bloody hell Komilator might not be 8A but 7B/+  that's crazy and stupid. it got 8B originally you know!

[frasermcilwraith]

I had no idea, that's pretty incredible! I can maybe understand how it might have got 8a once, amazing that it once got 8b.

I thought it felt comparable to Molunk, the moves being roughly the same but Komilator having fewer. So taking Molunk to be soft 7c I thought 7b/+ was fair... I could be completely wrong though. Either way it's still a good problem with some nice moves.

[Doylo]

It's a Fred Nicole problem , it came down when Dave Graham flashed it. Felt a grade harder than Molunk to me.

[andy_e]

Good one nic. Here's my list so far:

Dr. Med Dents   7B
Quasimodo   7B+
Arabald   7B
Globetrotter   7A
Power Strips   7C
Made in Norway   7B
Revolution   7B
Tomahawk   7B
Confessions of a crap artist   7C
Le Monolithe   7B
Doctor Crimp   7C

Looks like I'll add Komilator to that list then, holiday grades!

[Nibile]

Komilator has been chipped, so its grade is different depending on when you did it.
I found Molonk steadier but more morpho for getting the lip.
Komilator felt more subtle, the heel hook is a bit precarious and it also goes down on how precisely you get the first left hand crimp.
Good memories.

[Doylo]

Do you know when it was chipped Nibs?

[frasermcilwraith]

I don't know, I flashed them both so I suppose my grades could be way out for them. Molunk definitely felt harder to me, I had to properly battle on the top bit, whereas Komilator didn't feel too bad.

[liam fyfe]

Rumours are it wasnt chipped. I did it not long after the supposed chipping and a few locals seemed to think it hadnt. Never knew it got 8b originally. Is a great problem but is soft for 8a. A few wads including chris webb took 8a after me mind.

[Nibile]

I think it was chipped around early 2013. A friend of mine did it in December 2012 and I remember telling him he had been lucky to do it before the chipping.
The move out left to the first crimp is long, believe me, if you're not tall. Also, jumping from there to catch the lip, if one has the balls to try that way, could be easier?
 
Everyone took 8a anyway... Even Caminati who's notoriously a pain in the arse for grades and stuff.

[Richie Crouch]

Lemon Tree (6C+) and pet terrapin ss (7B+) are both v good. Quite enjoyed The pocket problem (soft 7C) too just near to alphane moon.

[Doylo]

I think it was chipped around early 2013. A friend of mine did it in December 2012 and I remember telling him he had been lucky to do it before the chipping.

Maybe that explains the discrepancy between 7B and 7C+!

[Doylo]

The stand up to Serre Moi Forte is worth doing . Gets 7B+ but is probably easier.

[a dense loner]

Dr crimp is absolutely shit, I can't understand at all why it gets a good press

[nic mullin]

Thanks for the suggestions, wadded accordingly. Any more for any more?

[andy_e]

Yes, it does indeed look well Jackson:


Various good ones in these:

[Nibile]

Close to Dr. Crimp there's a roof with nice lines, really worth the search.
Other problems that come to mind, basically everything you find in "Paese" sector: Bella Gnocca is a cool 7b traverse, there are 7a's and 7b's in the roof of Souvenir with endless variations.
In the central sectors, Autopilot 7b+ is worth really and the other problems there are fun.
Kill Bill, a nice one mover at 7a.
Number One, slopey 7a.
Birds, 7c, dabby but fun.
Les cliques a claques stand (hard) 7b+.
Have fun.

[andy_e]

Close to Dr. Crimp there's a roof with nice lines, really worth the search.

Matusalem (6C+) is on that roof and in one of those videos, looks like good jug thugging fun. Cheers for the suggestions Nibs!

[Doylo]

Vitruvian Man is lowball but good. Think it's been chipped tho.

[andy_e]

Yes, apparently down to 7A now but also apparently still good.

[Niels]

Tomahawk's gotta be up there as one of the best looking lines and it climbs fairly well too, even if it is very soft for 7B.