S. AM Took the easy option and went bouldering on the Wave with the boys whilst Poppy did Spider Club. Not too shoddy despite being tired. Evening. Extended fingerboard, and weights session
Quote from: shark on July 27, 2014, 11:11:20 pmS. AM Took the easy option and went bouldering on the Wave with the boys whilst Poppy did Spider Club. Not too shoddy despite being tired. Evening. Extended fingerboard, and weights sessionyou missed out "wandering around Broomhill with a metric ton of Sunday papers" or was that your doppleganger?
Onsighted The Pillar (4+)
Quote from: Luke Owens on July 28, 2014, 10:31:09 amOnsighted The Pillar (4+) Waddage. I find tight forearms are just a sign of needing to rest.
Then worked King of Drunks. Could do the top but not the sit start
Quote from: shark on July 27, 2014, 11:11:20 pmThen worked King of Drunks. Could do the top but not the sit start I find this problem hard the opposite way around. There's a method for the sit start using a high right heelhook which I think works really well. What method do you use for the top? I always find the throw out left for the distant sloper really on/off.
Kettlebells and core. Realised that they contribute to tender finger.
Quote from: the_dom on July 29, 2014, 07:50:26 amKettlebells and core. Realised that they contribute to tender finger. +1I've found with pulley injuries that anything that presses directly on the pulley is just as bad as trying to pull on small holds. Pull-up bars were bad. Campusing on flat rungs was even worse.
Quote from: Luke Owens on July 28, 2014, 01:08:18 pmQuote from: shark on July 27, 2014, 11:11:20 pmThen worked King of Drunks. Could do the top but not the sit start I find this problem hard the opposite way around. There's a method for the sit start using a high right heelhook which I think works really well. What method do you use for the top? I always find the throw out left for the distant sloper really on/off.Here's a poor quality video. I actually go too high and get the wrong hold and drop down to the one I should have got on this go. The key for me on the move is momentum - if you look my arse sags down before going for the hold.Had a brief play with some "midget beta" a boulderette kindly showed me with a high right heel for the start but it seemed ridiculous.http://youtu.be/DN-ZHtpHY_Q?list=UU05zpkTKrJZp1bQFBlkICpw
God you're a fat cunt. Also, the heel beta probably didn't work cos you suck really badly at heels.
Quote from: Three Nine on July 29, 2014, 01:35:26 pmGod you're a fat cunt. Also, the heel beta probably didn't work cos you suck really badly at heels.True but I don't need to be light at the moment.Also it is toehooks I suck badly on, not heels. If anything heelhooking is a strong point. And my toe hooking is improving trying Ben's Roof. Tomtom will confirm..
Quote from: TobyD on July 27, 2014, 11:47:11 pmQuote from: shark on July 27, 2014, 11:11:20 pmS. AM Took the easy option and went bouldering on the Wave with the boys whilst Poppy did Spider Club. Not too shoddy despite being tired. Evening. Extended fingerboard, and weights sessionyou missed out "wandering around Broomhill with a metric ton of Sunday papers" or was that your doppleganger? Stalker