Wear Boreal and pretend you've done all your projects when nobody was there?
Scarpa Instinct VS?
The way I look at it, top climbers *generally* wear Five ten Dragons/Teams/Whites depending on terrain or La Sportiva Solution/testarossa/futura/muira VS and they must choose these models for a reason.
That reason being that they get them for free? There a plenty of pros not sponsored by those two companies who seem to do OK.
The thing is with heels is that it's specific to the placement on the rock. Sometimes you need a snug fit and good shape and others (like in my case) you need a bit of sag to hook on to something spikey. The best general heel hooking shoe in the world could still be useless on a specific hook. This stuff can make the difference at your limit. I'm always making modifications to boots. Team/Dragons are wank heels tho IMO and no good on hard/tricky placements.
I disagree with the solutions having a decent heel for heel hooking. I think they're generally crap at heel hoking evn though they're my favorite shoe.On any marginal placement they're rubbish. They have a hard heel cup that doesn't mold at all.