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[Peak][Griff's buttress][lovine][7C] (Read 7623 times)

haydn jones

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[Peak][Griff's buttress][lovine][7C]
July 05, 2014, 11:33:58 pm
low right start to ovine, start matched on good rail down and right slap good foothold on ovine, using this move left into the start of ovine.

Really good problem and good moves.

Got a video of it will be up shortly, pretty sure this is new, couldn't see any evidence that it had been done before maybe Rupert will know?

Bonjoy

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Good effort. This adds some great moves and is a very logic sit start. Makes a class problem even better.

haydn jones

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vimeo.com/100022118

I think vimeo may still be converting the file format or something but shouldn't take long

Fiend

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Strong sock action! Just for that here's the embedded video, to save you the horror and torment of slackbot correcting you with lots of links and stuff (p.s. just post the full video link but with http instead of https)
.

Ru

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 Not done this, but the original prob now named Bovine starts and finishes in the same place: start on low rail, slap Ovine foothold, rh slopey crimp, lh crimp just right of Ovine undercut, top.
 
Went back today for evening sesh for the first time in years. It looks like people now climb Bovine to the right of my orig finish, using the slots on Griffs traverse (presumably because the description says finish on slots).

In fact the description of Bovine is quite bad in retrospect, the 'large flat hold' mentioned is supposed the Ovine foothold, bit thats not that big nor that flat.

I will try and post up my orig topo from 2007.
« Last Edit: July 06, 2014, 08:53:18 pm by Ru »

a dense loner

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What does that mean ru? Is lovine a new prob or is it bovine?

Bonjoy

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Seems a shame to make Bovine an eliminate and to force it to be almost on top of Ovine when there are two quite distinct lines with space between them if climbed sans rules. Either way the Bovine Lovine overlap only amounts to move one. Seems a pretty good line by lime standards to me.

Ru

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What does that mean ru? Is lovine a new prob or is it bovine?

Lovine is new: as Bonjoy says it only overlaps by one move. But my original method on Bovine gets very close to Ovine at the top, and shares the same first move, so they have a similar line.

I went back here for the first time in about 6 years tonight and my original method on Bovine now looks a bit eliminate, but that's what happens when you do FAs - you just see a method and do it.

Bovine has caused a bit of confusion as my description was a bit rubbish, probably because I wrote it up a few years after doing it.

The low left sit into Ovine is still the best problem here with the exception of Mutton Bustin I reckon - no-one seems to do it though.
« Last Edit: July 07, 2014, 09:21:40 am by Ru »

Ru

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Does UKB still have a photo hosting thing? I'll post up my orig topo.

Bonjoy

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No. You could put on peak bouldering.info and link.

Bonjoy

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Bit off topic this but tried Ovine LH sitter briefly today (in between failing on Lovine) but couldn't figure the pull on. Is it a proper sit start off one pad? If so what do you start with rh on? Pinchy nubbin could be any of various things, none seemed the obvious right way. Then launch straight for big pinch?
Ru - Just figured your original way on Bovine must use the Ovine crimp. I think this may still be the easiest way to do the prob but folk have assumed (I did anyway) that it was out of bounds as it's on Ovine (the way most folk do it anyway, especially now the upper undercut way is no more). The description on pb.info is still unclear because of this.

haydn jones

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Thought I spide your wagon at beginers as I went past :p

Joe Lawson

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Good effort Haydn! I got Ovine the other day, so will most likely head down at the weekend to try Lovine and Low Left Ovine.

Ru

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Bit off topic this but tried Ovine LH sitter briefly today (in between failing on Lovine) but couldn't figure the pull on. Is it a proper sit start off one pad? If so what do you start with rh on? Pinchy nubbin could be any of various things, none seemed the obvious right way. Then launch straight for big pinch?
Ru - Just figured your original way on Bovine must use the Ovine crimp. I think this may still be the easiest way to do the prob but folk have assumed (I did anyway) that it was out of bounds as it's on Ovine (the way most folk do it anyway, especially now the upper undercut way is no more). The description on pb.info is still unclear because of this.

Ovine LH sitter starts Lh on the sticky out crimp, rh on anything nearby. I think I used a poor pinchy undercut on the lip, but you can also start sort of matched with two fingers on the RH end of the crimp. There's nothing that's really obvious. I started sat, but on a pad. Then theres a small dishy intermediate just up and right (brushed) for RH that you can use to get set for the pop to the sloper. The most obvious start is with RH already on the intermediate, but then you're too high to do a proper sitter.

Re Bovine, yes.

Bonjoy

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Cheers that makes sense. Will give it a proper try next time.

masonwoods101

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So bovine.... Start on the ledge left hand up to ovine heel hold. Right hand to slot... I matched the slot and reached right hand to a sidepull directl above (was very mucky I had to clean it a bit) and then jump to the top. Is that right? Also ovine is a hell of a lot of work for 7b...

haydn jones

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sounds right. :)

 

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