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Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8) (Read 13017 times)

Jaspersharpe

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#25 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 07:49:59 am
Quote
Mark Edwards (Font 8A?)

He's done tons of 8As. Haven't you seen his videos?

many of them first ascents?

All of them I believe.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


petejh

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#26 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 09:02:49 am
And Andy Cave? Wasn't there an article saying he'd done VIII, E8, 8a, 8000m and 8-pints in an 8 month period? (Not sure about the 8A bit though to be a true all rounder?)

I guess i have a tenuous claim on the triple crown too if you count long Parisella's problems as 8A? I've swapped leads on a VIII FA, but seconded the crux, so can't quite claim the extended version.

We could throw in M8/D8 for some further variety and whittle the list down a bit further?

Sorry Ally, back around. I'm going to suggest that goes in the next guide at VII - compared to Great Corner it is.

Cool topic, the 8A would seem by far the hardest and the trad the easiest (?) out of 8a, e8, VIII, 8A -  the trad could be redpointing a bold 7b it seems?!, winter is more about time spent doing it than a high physical performance standard and sacrificing a normal life to chase conditions, sport probably second hardest? and the boulder problem - there's no short-cutting that sort of physicality (except knee-bars...) no matter how easy it is to work/access.

Ally Smith

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#27 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 10:17:39 am
Sorry Ally, back around. I'm going to suggest that goes in the next guide at VII - compared to Great Corner it is.

I guess that just confirms what i already knew - I'm pretty shit at winter climbing!

jakes

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#28 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 10:58:23 am
how many have done a 8000m peak?  is it just Leo Holding?

Is 'climbing' an 8000 m peak really a challenge that climbers aspire to?

I don't think it is.

At a family do a few years back I got introduced to a distant relative who was a 'climber', turns out they had paid a lot of money to go on several guided trips up big peaks in the Himalayas. He didn't have a clue about climbing, e.g. he drew a complete blank when I said I really wanted to climb London Wall. The type of people drawn to Himalayan mountaineering generally seem to fit this mold. Now I'm not saying it's not a challenge, it clearly is,  but I just I don't think the majority of British all-rounders even momentarily think of climbing 8000 m peaks.

Furthermore, for the majority of people (minus Ueli Steck), climbing an 8000 m peak is so far removed from the independent nature of the rest of our activities that it's almost an alien concept paying to go on an organised trip.

The Runt

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#29 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 11:08:37 am
How about doing them all in a day, that would be impressive.

slackline

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#30 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 11:34:30 am
Not 8's but there is the Pass Challenge which James McHaffie completed.

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#31 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 12:04:21 pm
how many have done a 8000m peak?  is it just Leo Holding?

Is 'climbing' an 8000 m peak really a challenge that climbers aspire to?

I don't think it is.

At a family do a few years back I got introduced to a distant relative who was a 'climber', turns out they had paid a lot of money to go on several guided trips up big peaks in the Himalayas. He didn't have a clue about climbing, e.g. he drew a complete blank when I said I really wanted to climb London Wall. The type of people drawn to Himalayan mountaineering generally seem to fit this mold. Now I'm not saying it's not a challenge, it clearly is,  but I just I don't think the majority of British all-rounders even momentarily think of climbing 8000 m peaks.

Furthermore, for the majority of people (minus Ueli Steck), climbing an 8000 m peak is so far removed from the independent nature of the rest of our activities that it's almost an alien concept paying to go on an organised trip.

Most people who aspire to climb big mountains couldn't give a monkeys about bouldering. Same with winter climbing. Isn't that the point of being an 'all rounder' i.e. embracing the diversity within climbing?

T_B

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#32 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 12:05:12 pm
How about doing them all in a day, that would be impressive.

Not as impressive as doing the Yorkshire Triple Crown in a day though. That still blows me away.

Teaboy

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#33 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 01:28:30 pm

Not as impressive as doing the Yorkshire Triple Crown in a day though. That still blows me away.

Has anyone seriously tried this? I'd quite like to try something similar at 7b+ and I know a couple of people who are planning to do a 7c+ version but I don't know of anyone who've actually tried it.

lagerstarfish

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#34 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 02:57:28 pm

Nik could go for 5* 8 but his knees are too little to get him to the top of a big hill.

you seen Andy Cave's legs?

T_B

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#35 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 03:04:47 pm

Not as impressive as doing the Yorkshire Triple Crown in a day though. That still blows me away.

Has anyone seriously tried this?

I was told Andy Mitchell had done it.

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#36 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 03:17:32 pm

Nik could go for 5* 8 but his knees are too little to get him to the top of a big hill.

you seen Andy Cave's legs?

I don't buy that sort of magazine.

french erick

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#37 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 04:40:45 pm
[q Sorry Ally, back around. I'm going to suggest that goes in the next guide at VII - compared to Great Corner it is.

Cool topic, the 8A would seem by far the hardest and the trad the easiest (?) out of 8a, e8, VIII, 8A -  the trad could be redpointing a bold 7b it seems?!, winter is more about time spent doing it than a high physical performance standard and sacrificing a normal life to chase conditions, sport probably second hardest? and the boulder problem - there's no short-cutting that sort of physicality (except knee-bars...) no matter how easy it is to work/access.

I will disagree slightly and say that VIII is the easiest. A number of people who can go up that in winter are nowhere near going up harder than E5/6 on trad. It, admittedly, does require time to go on the hill so it requires dedication and understanding families/partners. I could not comment on any of the other grades as they are unreachable for me.

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#38 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 05:42:22 pm
What venues have E8, 8a and 8A? Dumby is the obvious one, all within a few metres of each other. Sure there must be lots of others?


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#39 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 06:07:50 pm
As pointed out earlier surely 8A must be the hardest. I find it unbelievable that anyone who climbs 8A cant do an 8a route.

I know a lot of people who climbed 8b-8c routes who couldnt do 8A. A tiny bit of application would get an 8A boulderer up 8a.

Johnny Brown

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#40 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 12, 2014, 06:31:04 pm
I guess that's generally true, though the crux for me was finding an 8a locally that I wanted to do. It still took me a similar time as previous 8As, but then I didn't climb 8A on small holds, whereas 8a in the Peak is non crimp negotiable.

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#41 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 13, 2014, 08:09:03 am
Does anyone have anymore info on this. I would love to hear about it was there any write up on it, what order would you do them in do you walk from crag to crag as we'll or is this just folklore. I've always thought this would be such a brilliant thing to be able to do.

flyguy

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#42 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 13, 2014, 08:09:39 am
I'm talking about the triple crown in a day there.

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#43 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 13, 2014, 08:14:04 am
I've triple crowned. Big night.

lagerstarfish

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#44 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 13, 2014, 10:31:29 am
As pointed out earlier surely 8A must be the hardest. I find it unbelievable that anyone who climbs 8A cant do an 8a route.

I know a lot of people who climbed 8b-8c routes who couldnt do 8A. A tiny bit of application would get an 8A boulderer up 8a.

all boulderers are lazy*, so this is a massive barrier

*fact

TobyD

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#45 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 13, 2014, 11:27:09 pm
Does anyone have anymore info on this. I would love to hear about it was there any write up on it, what order would you do them in do you walk from crag to crag as we'll or is this just folklore. I've always thought this would be such a brilliant thing to be able to do.

According to what I was told, Mitchell cycled between the crags. I don't know what order he did them in. FWIW I think that Supercool and Urgent would be (relatively speaking) not too bad to do on a day but the Groove as well... I would have thought you'd do the Groove first, being comfortably the hardest and in the sun from about 11.30

flyguy

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#46 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 14, 2014, 08:12:34 am
Cheers Toby.

moose

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#47 Re: Triple 8's (8A, 8a, E8)
June 14, 2014, 08:35:30 am
Is it possible to top-out from any of the harder routes at Gordale? That would open up the possibility of fully climbing all three crags - with Totally Free at Malham and Mandela at Kilnsey.  Now, that would be a big day!  Especially if you could contrive a schedule that allowed you to just untie at the top of one route and walk straight to the base of the next (admittedly with a support team scurrying about retrieving gear behind you).

 

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