I need to work out the power endurance phase, which I think was unsuccessful. I didn't get enough outdoor climbing in either
I felt that my finger strength improved over this period, but more it was a kind of localised power endurance.
Introducing the great “Rock Prodigy Training Methods” survey…
I think you could develop a better plan focused on peaking for both and generally allowing for more quality rock sessions throughout.
Quote from: Sasquatch on April 18, 2015, 12:59:42 amI think you could develop a better plan focused on peaking for both and generally allowing for more quality rock sessions throughout. Please elaborate... Getting climbing advice for the moderately weak is miserable. Everyone in the 8A range seems to make 7C climbing seem so obvious... Same with 8a+ to 8b+. I have been taking the Bill Ramsey approach. http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?t=127383963
Quote from: blamo on April 18, 2015, 04:03:28 amQuote from: Sasquatch on April 18, 2015, 12:59:42 amI think you could develop a better plan focused on peaking for both and generally allowing for more quality rock sessions throughout. Please elaborate... Getting climbing advice for the moderately weak is miserable. Everyone in the 8A range seems to make 7C climbing seem so obvious... Same with 8a+ to 8b+. I have been taking the Bill Ramsey approach. http://forum.bodybuilding.com/showthread.php?t=127383963I think the big difference I would make is to adapt the FB cycle to include a bouldering session 1 out of 3 sessions. And add in max recruitment to the FB cycle. Then you'd peak for bouldering during the later part of the campus/boulder 4 week cycle. Then transition to PE and sport routes just after.
I was doing a lot of running last year that I haven't been this year
100-180km per month. It wasn't in an attempt to improve my aerobic capacity or climb harder, I just like running and the local feels were bone most of last summer. Unfortunately back problems have prevented me doing any for a while, I'm sure I'd be more likely to adhere to the RCTM rest times if I could.