[Bonjoy]

Some good new things at the first two and a couple of random bitty things at the other two.

Chatsworth Edge

These two are on an overhanging prow feature which is fairly obscured from view above a big ledge between Spiral and Emerald buttresses. It’s documented as Tooth Buttress in the Froggatt guide and there are some vegetated easy routes listed to either side.

Captain Bee Fart 6C – Sit start on the left side of the prow and climb the left arete with a tricky move to get established on it.

Captain Beef Art 6C+ – The prow tackled front on. Good climbing if a little close to the edge for comfort.

Both can be finished at the break or by continuing up the nice but necky tower above (E1 5b type solo terrain). Starting up CBA to finish up CBF is about 6C and a good way to do most of the former without the slightly scary bit.

Dobb Edge

These two are in the farthest (3rd) quarried bay of the edge and climb up a partially undercut wall.

Mr Dobalina 7B – The wall bearing left from a slot above the right-hand cutaway, trend back right on big flatties to a thankfully easy topout by the tree.

Mr Bob Dobalina 6A – Start high on the left and climb the arete into the same finish as the 7B.

Apologies in advance to those of a certain age who now have a very persistent earworm in place.




Wyming Brook

6C – Right of Broken Bottle Buttress. From SS (with help of toehook out right), use edges to rock up into a left trending ramp.

Moorside Rocks

6C+ - Right of the Jackelope is a Highball E3 up the prow/arete. This climbs the lower section from a SS. Incredibly awkward and thrutchy knee scrittling.

[Bonjoy]

The Chatsworth prow

[Andy B]

That's the one I was on about jonboy. Good work.

[highrepute]

Went here and did Mr Dobolina. Superb stuff, thanks Jon. We found an approach to the start that made it feel a bit more like a 7a than b. See the last method in this video. Would recommend this problem to all.

[dave]

Is that what people are doing as Dobbin's Blog then these days? Pretty sure we went much more direct to the top hold on that, avoiding those big holds in the middle of the wall.

[Scouse D]

Agree with dave there, that's not dobbins blog, it goes about about a metre right of there. Dobalina beta looks good, we did a direct start last time we were there which is also more 7. Shame really as the original sequence is class.

[highrepute]

I believe that is what people are doing for Dobbins these days Its what the guide says to do.

Did your direct pull on with a narrow slot Dave?

[dave]

Can't remember the exact numbers but a big straight up rockover to start up to a tiny edge, which you had to pull through from.

[Scouse D]

The direct to dobalina starts with the left hand side pull and a small positive undercut for rh. pull on then boing up to same backhand and boing again to the good edges which mark the end of the difficulties

[Gritlad]

Imo this is a venue where it's a lot better giving vague lines rather than creating eliminate lines for the sake of one sequence or another. Dobbins blog and Dobbalina both felt 7Aish to me.
 Our sequence for Dobbins blog started just right of James but did the same top. In the Vertebrate video it seems there is a hold lower than the one in the niche that the leftwards line goes to, so horses for courses no?
Either way, they are both great problems.

[Johnny Brown]

That line is Dobbin's log. It has much bigger holds and is a much easier proposition apart form the learn at the top. The original has a thinner big move and the low start is much harder. I've got a video, but I doubt I'll get round to uploading it.

[Gritlad]

Hhhmmmm, we had a play using those rightwards crimps and I seem to remember they were pretty much the same size? We just figured the center of the wall was where we were climbing (the centre)
Also did the low start off a small rh sidepull. Not that much harder really, lovely lash.
Either way, Dobbalina is a lot better.

[dave]

Dobbin's blog they way we did it, right of centre via the tiny crimp, felt more like 7b to me than 7a.

[Gritlad]

Is this your vid JB?
If so that sequence is same as a number of peoples for the top move only we went to the niche and not the sidepull that Ben seems to get, could be the same hold just a funny video angle?
Center of the wall is exactly that, we did what the book said, felt 7A, I've done harder 7As and easier 7Bs.
Medal please

[dave]

I think we still went even further right than BB in that vid.

[Johnny Brown]

Yeah BB is on the right line in that vid. The big holds are in the wet streak.

[andy_e]

Nice couple of Stick It references!