I don't see any hidden rules.I see Westwood and the pessimist as two different problems as they have different starts but happen to share the same hard bit. Whether you find Westwood easier by a big throw between jugs or boning filth will depend on the climber, and if like Dave says they are the same grade, then we don't need any rules or eliminates, it's just horses for courses.I still can't believe you really thought I love pinches wall that much!
I heard a guy (I won't embarrass him cos he comes on here) telling some friends how he'd done Bens roof "properly" without the knee bar. When asked about his sequence he explained that he used the knee bar for one or two of the moves but didn't rest on it, so that was OK.
It’s a fair argument that treating places in this way might encourage proliferation into inappropriate areas but I don’t think this is reason enough not to do it for places that really fit the bill. The existence of sub-problem entities, which eliminates are in most cases, in the right context only detract from the lines they bastardise if people are daft enough to let them, as is the case at Crag X where most of the none eliminate versions of things aren’t recognised problems.
Bone Machine 8a – The obvious high start to the R-L traverse. Start on the ledge at the base of the crack and burl along undercuts and small lip holds to a hard drop down into the midway jug, then finish as per the eatswood Traverse. Bring kneepads. FA Ned Feehally. Ned also did a reverse of the hard section, low jug to crack/ledge at 7c+.
I sense a bit of social engineering to encourage people to do the new start to eatswood Traverse by giving it a harder French grade.
I sense a bit of social engineering to encourage people to do the new start to eatswood Traverse by giving it a harder French grade. The original was still 8a IMOFWIW
...Rubble Rouser, now with extra few moves at the start. I'm going to stick my neck out and suggest 7c+ for this, but might well be only 7c, needs a repeat.
but given that I think TET is lowish 7B+... ...If I’d given TET 7C it would seem well out of kilter with the rest of the cave.
didn't use knee bar, would like to claim for ethical reasons but actually just don't own one