[NewBoulder12]

Hi guys,

I've recently been able to get my hands on these shoes all for around £20-30~ :
Boreal Satori
Boreal Dharma
 Evolv Geshido
Five Ten Anasazi Velcros ( I would love these, but it's very unlikely I will get these, so ignore this really)
Boreal Joker
5/10 Asym


I am a new climber, only had my first bouldering session on saturday, can do level 4 problems, my grip strength lets me down, but according to the guy who was supervising me, I was very good for a first time climber, I think my time at the gym might have helped, but I know where to improve now in terms of training

am I being too keen with these shoes for a beginer? I thought the above were good value for what I was paying for them.

Thanks,

[ghisino]

The model of your first shoes isn't crucial.
just check that they roughly fit your feet- you should be evenly compressed with no loose or painfully tight spots.

[tommytwotone]

+1 to that - though I would add that if you're mainly bouldering than getting a pair that are relatively soft / not too stiff is a good move.


As a callow youth I was sold a pair of Boreal Aces as my first proper shoes...seem to remember I didn't use them for very long before replacing them.


I'm not that au fait with any of the models you've listed that aren't 5:10, but I'd also steer away from anything too downturned or your first shoes, fact is you won't get any benefit from them.

[Ti_pin_man]

as others have said, something that fits your foot shape, dont hurt and will be comfy for climbing in.  The myth that you need to wear crippling tight shoes that bend your toes down is just that, a myth, especially when you start out. 

[Richie Crouch]

I'd say the dharma and satori may be a bit too down turned for a first shoe. The joker are always a good choice as they are comfortable, have enough stiffness to help support your feet and you could wear them all session.

The Geshido may be ok. Quite low profile above the toes, so maybe not ideal if you have high volume/chunky feet. Be careful on the size as they don't really stretch much.

The asym would be good too by the look of it, but I've never seen it in the flesh... It looks similar to a coyote/spire/hueco in shape, so should be ideal if it fits well.

[slackline]

Check how much they would normally cost you, because at £20-30/pair you could get a pair of each, find what you prefer and sell the rest for the same (if not more) as you paid for them providing you don't trash them in the few times you wear them.

[tomtom]

Jokers are a fine shoe. Not the best, but comfy and a good all rounder.

[NewBoulder12]

There's also these scond hand Red Chili climbing shoes that I could get my hands on for £13 :





or these red chilli shoes for £11:


And now some cheap Boreal Markduks as well.

[rich d]

I had a pair of those red chilli velcroes in the bottom pic a few years back. If they fit your foot would be a decent pair and mine lasted well, the rubber's not as good as 5.10, but in the lower grades it didn't make much difference to me. As the others have said it's the fit that counts more than anything.

Richard

[mrjonathanr]

Get something inexpensive that fits well as a temporary first shoe, then buy something better when your footwork has improved and you have a better idea of what you want.

That isn't an argument for £20 rubbish from Decathlon mind, but I wouldn't stress over your initial buy outside of it being something which fits your foot well.

[NewBoulder12]

Ok, the only ones that were still for sale were these red chilli's , and I bought them for £19 really needed shoes so thought why not. Only time will tell if they are good or not, but from what you guys have said, doesn't matter a huge amount anyway for my first shoes



Thanks guys!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk