He's more a fan of the Gaskins way of marketing.
Ok here's a question for you guys - what specifically has impressed you about Malc ? what do consider to be his biggest achievements ? And why ?
Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?
Quote from: cowboyhat on March 12, 2014, 05:22:20 pmWhich makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?Didn't he come second at some comp in the states to Chris Sharma?
Quote from: cowboyhat on March 12, 2014, 05:22:20 pmWhich makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?Didn't he come second at some comp in the states to Chris Sharma?Read somewhere way back that he was at some international comp where he did this one arm pull up on this really bad hold - Yuji Hirayama I think was the route setter and couldn't believe it, so he kept the hold and every strong climber he asked to try and do a one armer on it but no one else ever managed it so he called it the Malcolm smith hold. No idea where I read this now...
Interesting to compare Smith with Gaskins with regards to the Monk's Life. It took Malcolm 10 years of effort and then Gaskins did it in 2 sessions. Not taking away anything from Malcolm but just goes to show that perhaps the aura of a FA can be the hardest part of doing a particular problem.
Quote from: Kingy on March 12, 2014, 09:57:27 pmInteresting to compare Smith with Gaskins with regards to the Monk's Life. It took Malcolm 10 years of effort and then Gaskins did it in 2 sessions. Not taking away anything from Malcolm but just goes to show that perhaps the aura of a FA can be the hardest part of doing a particular problem. I didn't know Gaskins had done Monk's Life, is there any footage of that?
I remember watching a couple the UK National Bouldering champs that he won, late 90's? Anyway he was on his own. Flashed every problem, looked like he was warming up. Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?
It took Malcolm 10 years of effort and then Gaskins did it in 2 sessions.
Ok here's a question for you guys - what specifically has impressed you about Malc ?
Quote from: roddersm on March 12, 2014, 08:55:03 pmQuote from: cowboyhat on March 12, 2014, 05:22:20 pmWhich makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?Didn't he come second at some comp in the states to Chris Sharma?Read somewhere way back that he was at some international comp where he did this one arm pull up on this really bad hold - Yuji Hirayama I think was the route setter and couldn't believe it, so he kept the hold and every strong climber he asked to try and do a one armer on it but no one else ever managed it so he called it the Malcolm smith hold. No idea where I read this now... Yeah I remember reading something along these lines, I think it was an Arco comp. Don't think it was Yuji Hirayama though.
If i recall correctly, He came 2nd overall in the boulder world cup in 2002 (i think that was the year), marginally missing out on winning the whole thing due to poor judging
Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he...?
... why he stopped competing (I vaguely remember reading it was because he didn't like the pressure of comps, but could be wrong.)
Why after taking part in the Bouldering World Cup did you disappear from the circuit?I wasn't enjoying it really! Even if I got good results and I'm a kind of shy person I don't really have a competitive and exhibitionist personality to enjoy climbing in the crowd so much. I think that most of the best competitor climbers also like to stay in the show!