Did plenty of training this week, feeling really fit on the routes at the moment. Doing plenty of Aerocap training and it's helping me loads. I've gone from getting completely powered out and boxed half way up 6b+'s (2 months ago) to not even needing to shake out on 7a's at the wall. Bizarre but feels great!
I feel like I should have a good chance at some harder on-sights this year.
Monday: Light Aerocap - 30 minutes & 1 hour stretching
Tuesday:
Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips
Off-set Pull Ups: 2 x 6 Reps 2 x 7 Reps 2 x 10 Reps
3 x 10 Hammer Curls
3 x 10 Dubbell Front Raises (10kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Evening Session: Hit the Boardroom with Ally for some 4x4's.
Warm up: 5+, 6a, 6b+
4x4's - Set 1: 4 x 6b+ (Steep), Set 2: 4 x 6b (Technical), Set 3: 4 x 6b+ (Fingery), Set 4: 4 x 6b+ (Fingery)
Stretching for 1 hour
Wednesday:
Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-ups, 10 Dips
Weighted Deadhangs (Front 3, open hand, 20mm edge)
Progressive set: 2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg -10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
Main set: 10kg - 10 secs, 10kg - 10 secs, 12.5kg - 10 secs
Evening Session: Light Aerocap - 30 minutes
Thursday: Boardroom routes
5, 5+, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c+, 7a, 7a, 6c+ (Everything felt easy, didn't get pumped at all...?!)
Warm Down - 6 x V3/V4
Friday:
12 Wide Grip Pull-ups, 10 Dips
Weighted Deadhangs (Front 3, open hand, 20mm edge)
Progressive Set: 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs
Main Set: 3 x 12.5kg - 10secs, 15kg - 9secs (PB!)
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Ran around on the beach with the little one