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Quality European Boulder Spots (Read 5292 times)

crazy climbing pete

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Quality European Boulder Spots
January 25, 2014, 01:35:13 pm
Over the last few years, i've been ticking off some of the best known European bouldering spots, including Font, Magic Wood, Albarracin, Zillertal and some more. Question is, where are the other really good venues that shouldn't be missed? Maybe, what are the top 20?

This doesn't really include the UK, where i've been all over the place, or further afield as expensive plane tickets aren't really an option (that and i like to take my dog...). It's also bouldering only as string ain't my thing, and last summer's trip to Frankenjura was a touch disappointing. Chuck on any suggestions, all are welcome (as long as they're good!).

Richie Crouch

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#1 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 25, 2014, 03:02:23 pm
Switzerland: Chironico, cresciano, Brione
Austria: silvretta, Tumpen
Italy: mello, Val Daone, sassofortino/Amiata
Czech: Petrohad
France: Annot, Targasonne
Portugal: Sintra
Spain: savassona, elcogul, navalosa, pedriza

Probably forgotten somewhere obvious too aside from what you mentioned!

Kingy

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#2 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 25, 2014, 07:28:19 pm
Ailefroide near Briancon is a good summer venue

slackline

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#3 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 25, 2014, 10:06:51 pm
Hoya Moros in Spain looks good in the videos.

crazy climbing pete

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#4 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 27, 2014, 05:59:52 pm
Cheers guys, good suggestions, thanks. The only two out of the list i've been to are Ailefroide and Val Daone (but i'd happily go back sometime) so plenty to go at. Been trying to remember the name Sintra for ages!

Any more suggestions also welcome

Sasquatch

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#5 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 27, 2014, 06:15:39 pm
IMO Sintra was OK, but not really CLASS unless you surf too :)
Haven't bouldered anywhere else in Europe though....

SA Chris

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#6 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 27, 2014, 07:59:24 pm
I'm pushing for a Sintra / Ericeira holiday at the moment! Not going down too well.

Sasquatch

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#7 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 27, 2014, 11:36:46 pm
I can't think of many better Bouldering/Surfing Holiday spots on this side of the world.  Or othwers for that matter :)  Maybe South Africa :)

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 28, 2014, 09:03:27 am
Having livedin SA for 20 years kind of takes the appeal off!

other options - Grampians / Great Ocean Road Oz (day driving between)

Castle Hill Basin / East Coast S Island NZ - Kaikoura / Christchurch (half day driving)

Isle of Lewis (not kidding)

apologies for sidetrack

Anyway, some answers from last time it was asked.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=8457.0

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=20494.0

Duma

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#9 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 28, 2014, 11:19:05 pm
I can't think of many better Bouldering/Surfing Holiday spots on this side of the world.  Or othwers for that matter :)  Maybe South Africa :)
what's the surfing like nr sintra? doable for a newbie?

Sasquatch

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#10 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 28, 2014, 11:27:42 pm
It seemed like there was a pretty good variety of spots.  It was only my second time ever going and I managed ok. My friend who was much more experienced got out into some other bigger spots that were too much for me.

SA Chris

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#11 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 29, 2014, 09:49:07 am
I can't think of many better Bouldering/Surfing Holiday spots on this side of the world.  Or othwers for that matter :)  Maybe South Africa :)
what's the surfing like nr sintra? doable for a newbie?

Ericeira has a variety of breaks around the town from shelterd to full on (according to Stormriders) I've not been, I think gme has?

jwi

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#12 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 29, 2014, 10:16:14 am
Norway: Harbak/Vingsand

I'm slightly sceptical about Targasonne. Nice environment and lots to go at but the rock quality is so-so?

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#13 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 29, 2014, 10:40:33 am
other options - Grampians / Great Ocean Road Oz (day driving between)

Castle Hill Basin / East Coast S Island NZ - Kaikoura / Christchurch (half day driving)
Both drives aren't *that* bad...

Castle Hill to Christchurch is 90min.
Horsham to Warrnambool (Great Ocean Road) is under 3 hours...

Another option would be Sydney itself. Fuckloads of bouldering and plenty of packed beaches for you... :D

SA Chris

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#14 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
January 29, 2014, 10:52:17 am
True on Sydney, great mix of bouldering and variety of beaches.

cha1n

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#15 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
February 01, 2014, 12:13:21 pm
I'd like to second La Pedriza. I was there for 3 weeks recently and it's an amazing place with Granite as far as the eye can see.

There's a new guidebook out written by local climber Talo Martin that lists nearly 2000 problems but there are many more problems than that developed. The local climbers are very friendly and if they wanted they could go out an put up first ascents every day. I was trying a problem with them, got to the top and there were like "Cool, you just did the first ascent", I had no idea!

It is very rough granite though, so cold conditions are a must and it probably isn't ideal for a short trip as if you got carried away you could go through a tip in a session quite easily.

El Cogul isn't worth a visit unless you're sport climbing nearby and get bored, also I have just came from there and it's very warm there in the winter and because the rock is mostly charcoal coloured sandstone, it's not great for climbing on in the sun.

The La Pedriza climbers had nothing but good stuff to say about the Galicia area though, I'll hopefully get there on another trip.

crazy climbing pete

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#16 Re: Quality European Boulder Spots
February 18, 2014, 12:27:17 pm
You lot are getting me tempted to start surfing now...

More so than these boys did anyhow:

http://www.northofthesun.no/

 

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